I've ordered a touring frame from Bob Jackson and am deciding on components to use. For a headset I'm leaning towards the threaded Stronglight A9 which is cheap (maybe $20 or so) and has replaceable roller bearings and race washers. For a crank, I'm thinking about Campy (other than Record) triple which would use one of the inexpensive (less than $20) Campy BBs.
Does anybody have thoughts about the reliability, durability, serviceability of the Stronglight A9? How about the inexpensive Campy BBs? These BBs seem to be available with steel axles and cups or with alloy cups and a hollow axle. Is there any advantage in this application for alloy cups or a hollow axle?
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I've ordered a touring frame from Bob Jackson and am deciding on components to use. For a headset I'm leaning towards the threaded Stronglight A9 which is cheap (maybe $20 or so) and has replaceable roller bearings and race washers. For a crank, I'm thinking about Campy (other than Record) triple which would use one of the inexpensive (less than $20) Campy BBs.
Does anybody have thoughts about the reliability, durability, serviceability of the Stronglight A9? How about the inexpensive Campy BBs? These BBs seem to be available with steel axles and cups or with alloy cups and a hollow axle. Is there any advantage in this application for alloy cups or a hollow axle?
thanks for any thoughts one way or another.
We buy ACH crank bearing assemblies with aluminum cups usually but we'll accept chromed steel cups to get the sizes we need on any given day. We almost never get not-hollow spindles. They all work fine and are inexplicably similar in price.
Does anybody have thoughts about the reliability, durability, serviceability of the Stronglight A9?
In my experience, it's excellent. The bike with the Stronglight is now 17 years old, and has many, many thousands of miles on it, including lots of loaded touring. I've replaced the bottom bearings only once, and very quickly.
We buy ACH crank bearing assemblies with aluminum cups usually...
I believe that "ACH" is the Campy model designation for the alloy cupped bottom bracket (the "A"😉 with the hollow ("H"😉 axle. "SCS" is a comparable BB with steel cups and solid axle. I don't know what the C is for unless it's actually AC for alloy cup and SC for steel cup. The third model is the "ACS".
My understanding is that these are the BBs for all the triple cranks in the Campy line other than the Record which is about twice as expensive as the next in the line.
Does anybody have thoughts about the reliability, durability, serviceability of the Stronglight A9?
In my experience, it's excellent. The bike with the Stronglight is now 17 years old, and has many, many thousands of miles on it, including lots of loaded touring. I've replaced the bottom bearings only once, and very quickly.
Thanks for the word on this. I have a bike with an American Classic trilock headset (which is no longer made but still available) and I like the ability to inject grease without opening the headset, but the touring bike will have cantilever brakes and I don't see how to mount a hanger. I'm sure the A9 will work out just fine.
I've ordered a touring frame from Bob Jackson and am deciding on components to use. For a headset I'm leaning towards the threaded Stronglight A9 which is cheap (maybe $20 or so) and has replaceable roller bearings and race washers. For a crank, I'm thinking about Campy (other than Record) triple which would use one of the inexpensive (less than $20) Campy BBs.
Does anybody have thoughts about the reliability, durability, serviceability of the Stronglight A9? How about the inexpensive Campy BBs? These BBs seem to be available with steel axles and cups or with alloy cups and a hollow axle. Is there any advantage in this application for alloy cups or a hollow axle?
thanks for any thoughts one way or another.
Harold
If you are doing extended tours, and will be riding in all weather, then you may wish to consider a threadless set up. Since you are having the bike custom bult, getting correct bar height and adjustablity is not an issue, and with threadless you will be able to service/adjst the headset on the road if neccessary.
