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Headset Fixed?

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UK and Europe
Published
31 October 2004
Last activity
1 November 2004
Original author
[Not Responding]
Posts
11
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  1. Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem on.
    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I tightened
    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when tested
    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller brakes).
    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

  2. Not Responding said:

    Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem on.
    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I tightened
    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when tested
    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller brakes).
    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    There is a danger the headset could be too tight, despite the steering
    feeling smooth (now). I know what you mean about the roller brake (if you
    have a *front* roller brake). An alternative way to test for play is
    bounce the front of the bike up and down on the ground and listen for the
    changing sound. Just past the point of play is ideal.

    ~PB

  3. in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

    Responding (') said:

    Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem on.
    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I tightened
    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when tested
    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller brakes).
    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    That's it. Oh, put the cap back on.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; I'd rather live in sybar-space

  4. Not Responding said:

    Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem on.
    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I tightened
    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when tested
    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller brakes).
    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    Put a finger at the back of the fork crown race and you will feel any
    movement as you rock the bike.

  5. Simon Brooke said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

    Responding (') said:

    Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem


    on.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I


    tightened

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when


    tested

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller


    brakes).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    That's it. Oh, put the cap back on.


    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    best wishes
    james

  6. email hidden said:


    Simon Brooke said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

    Responding (') said:

    Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.

    Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem


    on.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I


    tightened

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when


    tested

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller


    brakes).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Retightened stem bolts.

    Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    That's it. Oh, put the cap back on.


    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    Now you've got me totally confused. I think the tightness is just
    right; tight but steerer turns freely. If I slacken it off, surely I'm
    back to where I started.

    If the handlebars fall off on the way to work, I'll know I've got it
    wrong.

  7. Not Responding said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That's it. Oh, put the cap back on.


    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    Now you've got me totally confused. I think the tightness is just
    right; tight but steerer turns freely. If I slacken it off, surely I'm
    back to where I started.

    No, once the stem bolts have been tightened then the top bolt is
    redundant, it's not putting tension on anything, the stem bolts hold
    everything in place.

    You *could* slacken the top bolt off without anything falling apart.
    While this won't harm anything, I don't see that it helps anything
    either...*shrug*... I've always just left it as is.

    Your description of adjustment makes me worry that the headset may be
    too tight. You won't necessarily be able to feel if there is too much
    tension in the headset by how the bars turn, but it will damage the
    internals relatively quickly.

    The top bolt is used during adjustment to pre-load the bearings in the
    headset. It's important that you put only enough tension in the
    assembly to remove any play, then stop. So, if you've just loosened
    the stem, wound the top bolt up reasonably firm while feeling that the
    bars turn okay, it's very possible you've got it too tight.

    It's really a job that needs to be done in small increments. This
    takes a bit more time than the one hit method, but once you've got
    headset adjusted you'll possibly not have to touch it again for years,
    so might as well make sure it's done properly.

    Instructions here:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml#adjust
    --

    "Bob"

    'The revolution is just a T shirt away'

    Email address is spam trapped.
    To reply directly remove the beverage.

  8. [Not Responding] [email hidden] opined the
    following...

    Quoted message said:

    Now you've got me totally confused. I think the tightness is just
    right; tight but steerer turns freely. If I slacken it off, surely I'm
    back to where I started.

    If the handlebars fall off on the way to work, I'll know I've got it
    wrong.

    Once you've tightened the stem bolts back up (You have, haven't you?),
    the clamping force is held by the stem and the top bolt can be relaxed.
    AFAIK there is no advantage to doing so, so don't worry about it.

    Jon

  9. in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

    Responding (') said:
    email hidden said:


    Simon Brooke said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, [Not
    Responding] ([email hidden]'😉 wrote:

    > Hmm. Not sure if I've done it right or, indeed, done anything.
    >
    > Flipped off protective rubber cap. Loosened two bolts holding stem


    on.

    Quoted message said:

    > Checked that bars rotated independantly of steerer. Then I


    tightened

    Quoted message said:

    > up the bolt at the top. This seems to have improved things when


    tested

    Quoted message said:

    > statically (difficult to test headsets on a bike with roller


    brakes).

    Quoted message said:

    > Retightened stem bolts.
    >
    > Does this sound about right or should I have done something else?

    That's it. Oh, put the cap back on.


    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    Now you've got me totally confused. I think the tightness is just
    right; tight but steerer turns freely. If I slacken it off, surely I'm
    back to where I started.

    Not if you've got the stem clamped up properly tight. Its the stem
    clamping that holds the tension, not the top cap bolt. However, having
    said that, I don't back off my top cap bolts, and it hasn't done me any
    harm yet.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    ;; "If I were a Microsoft Public Relations person, I would probably
    ;; be sobbing on a desk right now" -- Rob Miller, editor, /.

  10. Quoted message said:

    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    ok I withdraw the comment. I have a vague recollection of seeing this
    advice somewhere but cannot recall if a justification was offered (I
    agree that there is no very obvious consequence of either doing so or
    not)

    best wishes
    james

  11. email hidden said:


    Quoted message said:

    shouldn't you slacken off the bolt at the top?

    ok I withdraw the comment. I have a vague recollection of seeing this
    advice somewhere but cannot recall if a justification was offered (I
    agree that there is no very obvious consequence of either doing so or
    not)

    Success (at least in the short term)! Ticking noise and loose
    handlebars banished.

    I'll just live in hope that I haven't overtightened everything in
    anticipation of long term catastrophic failure.

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