Help choosing correct bike

Appolo are generally too heavy but the Carrera series are better. Are you
anywhere near a branch of Decathalon?
They have a Triban Road 5 for about your price and its an excellent buy.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/Product_arborescence/cycle-and-rolle/bikes/city-and-countr/g-hiking-bikes/product_3396350/index.html

SW

"Mike" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi all, I am going to buy my first bike soon and Iam only looking to spend
between £230-£270

It will mainly be for increasing my fitness and I will be riding on road
but not racing. I am confused between the terms road bike and town/country
bike.

My first instinct was the apollo tdf road bike in halfords for £250 but
looking again there are town and country bikes such as carrera crossfire 2
for £260 in halfords.

Can anyone offer advice in what the differences between them would be and
which other bikes would be suitable for me.

Thanks in advance for any help

Mike

in message <[email hidden]>, Mike ([email hidden]'😉

Quoted message said:

Hi all, I am going to buy my first bike soon and Iam only looking to
spend between £230-£270

It will mainly be for increasing my fitness and I will be riding on road
but not racing. I am confused between the terms road bike and
town/country bike.

My first instinct was the apollo tdf road bike in halfords for £250 but
looking again there are town and country bikes such as carrera crossfire
2 for £260 in halfords.

Can anyone offer advice in what the differences between them would be and
which other bikes would be suitable for me.

There are two essential issues here; one is handlebars (drop bars vs
straight - drop bars offer real ergonomic and aerodynamic benefits but can
be a bit intimidating if you're not a cyclist); and so called 'comfort'
accessories like suspension seatposts, gel saddles, and suspension forks.

Avoid 'comfort' stuff - if the bike fits well it will be comfortable,
and 'comfort' gubbins makes up for poor fit by adding weight which makes
the bike less fun to ride.

At the price you're quoting a reasonable second hand road bike will
probably do you better than a new el-cheapo one.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; single speed mountain bikes: for people who cycle on flat mountains.

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Mike ([email hidden]'😉

Quoted message said:

Hi all, I am going to buy my first bike soon and Iam only looking to
spend between 230-270

There are two essential issues here; one is handlebars (drop bars vs
straight - drop bars offer real ergonomic and aerodynamic benefits but
can be a bit intimidating if you're not a cyclist);

To the OP - the "ergonomic benefit" of drop bars is an opinion, not a fact.
Experienced cyclists can be seen to get uncoordinated at times too if they
don't anticipate properly and have to [censored] the brake.

Unless you want to put in a reasonable pace (say, over 13mph averages or
doing much hill climbing) don't bother - you would likely do as most other
leisure riders and spend 90% of the time in the rear positions, only
groping forward to brake.You can get the same positions on straights (with
bar ends) without the braking issues.

In message <[email hidden]>

DavidR said:

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Mike ([email hidden]'😉

Quoted message said:

Hi all, I am going to buy my first bike soon and Iam only looking to
spend between 230-270

There are two essential issues here; one is handlebars (drop bars vs
straight - drop bars offer real ergonomic and aerodynamic benefits but
can be a bit intimidating if you're not a cyclist);

To the OP - the "ergonomic benefit" of drop bars is an opinion, not a fact.
Experienced cyclists can be seen to get uncoordinated at times too if they
don't anticipate properly and have to [censored] the brake.

Unless you want to put in a reasonable pace (say, over 13mph averages or
doing much hill climbing) don't bother - you would likely do as most other
leisure riders and spend 90% of the time in the rear positions, only
groping forward to brake.You can get the same positions on straights (with
bar ends) without the braking issues.

On the other hand I have never been able to get on with straight bars
tried different types, bar ends etc but always came back to drops as
using them got rid of the wrist troubles I experience tith straight bars
- except I now realise on the Brommy - short reach???

Gwyn

Quoted message said:

--
Gwyn

"Gwyn Oakley" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

DavidR said:

Unless you want to put in a reasonable pace (say, over 13mph averages or
doing much hill climbing) don't bother - you would likely do as most
other
leisure riders and spend 90% of the time in the rear positions, only
groping forward to brake.You can get the same positions on straights
(with
bar ends) without the braking issues.

On the other hand I have never been able to get on with straight bars
tried different types, bar ends etc but always came back to drops as
using them got rid of the wrist troubles I experience tith straight bars
- except I now realise on the Brommy - short reach???

The question is - when you have changed your bars have you also changed the
stem? You need to make sure your reach is consistent.

Also, do you ever use the actual drop? If not what other characteristic
distinguishes the two types?

In message <[email hidden]>
Gwyn Oakley <[email hidden]> wrote:

In message you said:

"Gwyn Oakley" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

DavidR said:

Unless you want to put in a reasonable pace (say, over 13mph averages or
doing much hill climbing) don't bother - you would likely do as most
other
leisure riders and spend 90% of the time in the rear positions, only
groping forward to brake.You can get the same positions on straights
(with
bar ends) without the braking issues.

On the other hand I have never been able to get on with straight bars
tried different types, bar ends etc but always came back to drops as
using them got rid of the wrist troubles I experience tith straight bars
- except I now realise on the Brommy - short reach???

The question is - when you have changed your bars have you also changed the
stem? You need to make sure your reach is consistent.

I did change the stem different bar diameters, can't be sure on reach

Quoted message said:

Also, do you ever use the actual drop? If not what other characteristic
distinguishes the two types?

I use the drop going down fast descents.
The main difference is that with drops I tend to ride withwith the heel
of my palms resting on the bars about 1/2 way in whereas with straight
bars I was gripping the well er grips. Somehow this meant that my wrists
were more bent - I think this was the main problem.

Gwyn

Quoted message said:

--
Gwyn

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Mike ([email hidden]'😉

Quoted message said:

Hi all, I am going to buy my first bike soon and Iam only looking to

<snip><snip>

Quoted message said:

There are two essential issues here; one is handlebars (drop bars vs
straight - drop bars offer real ergonomic and aerodynamic benefits but can
be a bit intimidating if you're not a cyclist); and so called 'comfort'
accessories like suspension seatposts, gel saddles, and suspension forks.

Avoid 'comfort' stuff - if the bike fits well it will be comfortable,
and 'comfort' gubbins makes up for poor fit by adding weight which makes
the bike less fun to ride.

At the price you're quoting a reasonable second hand road bike will
probably do you better than a new el-cheapo one.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; single speed mountain bikes: for people who cycle on flat
mountains.

I have ridden with "straight bars for 2 years out of the last three. This
time last year I changed to "butterfly" bars ( don't know the correct term
for them) and like them very much. My new Thorn Raven Tour is also fitted
with them ( although Thorn didn't recommend it). I ride mainly on the lower
bar where all the controls are but find the ability to move my hand
position, for relief, a real asset on a long days under camping loads. My
one other "comfort accessory" is a suspension seat post which just eases
the pressure on my cast iron bum!

As a sideline I have now done over 600 miles on the "new" bike and I am
totally chuffed with it. The bike fits me perfectly ( or I fit it!) and my
rides are so much more smooth and comfortable. Gear changing is a breeze and
the "low ratio" distinct hum is quite a pleasant side effect. I have got
over the initial "what do I do with my left hand" feeling. It is now nearly
fully fitted out for touring and I have started my 2007 training runs -
albeit somewhat curtailed by these high winded days -- to get ready for my
late spring annual tour. I have finally decided to cycle from Paris to the
Med following the Saone and Rhone via every vineyard I can find! It is a
part of France that I have never visited -- only about 1300 kms on route but
there will be many side trips for wine imbibing

--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire,
England, United Kingdom.
www.tapan.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

Steve W said:

Appolo are generally too heavy but the Carrera series are better. Are you
anywhere near a branch of Decathalon?
They have a Triban Road 5 for about your price and its an excellent buy.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/Product_arborescence/cycle-and-rolle/bikes/city-and-countr/g-hiking-bikes/product_3396350/index.html

SW

Well, there I was, moaning to all my friends (who aren't interested)
about how inappropriate for commuting and general use most bikes on sale
are when up pops this. Hub gears, mudguards, disc brake..... The only
things that I'd add (if it were possible) would be a rear disc and a
carrier. I'd probably lose the suspension fork though and I'd like to
check the BB height.
The university where I work is full of multi-gear mountain bikes with no
mudguards. All those wet bottoms.... and worse, all those young people
put off utility cycling. It doesn't seem to be this way across the channel.

--
Roger Thorpe

My email address is spamtrapped. You can work it out!

Roger Thorpe said:

Well, there I was, moaning to all my friends (who aren't interested)
about how inappropriate for commuting and general use most bikes on sale
are when up pops this. Hub gears, mudguards, disc brake..... The only
things that I'd add (if it were possible) would be a rear disc and a
carrier. I'd probably lose the suspension fork though and I'd like to
check the BB height.

Personally I'd avoid disk brakes on a commuting bike, I suspect they're a
bit of a thief magnet. I find properly adjusted rim brakes with decent pads
are more than adequate for commuting purposes.

Anthony

Anthony Jones said:

Roger Thorpe said:

Well, there I was, moaning to all my friends (who aren't interested)
about how inappropriate for commuting and general use most bikes on sale
are when up pops this. Hub gears, mudguards, disc brake..... The only
things that I'd add (if it were possible) would be a rear disc and a
carrier. I'd probably lose the suspension fork though and I'd like to
check the BB height.

Personally I'd avoid disk brakes on a commuting bike, I suspect they're a
bit of a thief magnet. I find properly adjusted rim brakes with decent pads
are more than adequate for commuting purposes.

Anthony

I think you're probably right there.
Hub brakes aren't sexy. Are they any good these days? (they used to
[censored] if I remember correctly)

--
Roger Thorpe

My email address is spamtrapped. You can work it out!

Roger Thorpe said:

Hub brakes aren't sexy. Are they any good these days? (they used to
[censored] if I remember correctly)

Like all brakes, you need to maintain them properly, even if that is
only taking them down to the LBS a couple of times a year to get more
grease. About 8 months after I got mine I started to notice a noise so I
went down to the LBS (Ed Co Op) and they pumped them full of grease
again for no charge. They did not use the expensive Shimano stuff that
you are meant to, just what was in the gun. The change was noticeable
with improved braking, 4 months later it appears to be just as good and
I have not noticed any ill effect from not using a branded grease.

--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

Evolution is a harsh mistress.

"Gwyn Oakley" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Gwyn Oakley" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

"DavidR" <[email hidden]> wrote:
>

Also, do you ever use the actual drop? If not what other characteristic
distinguishes the two types?

I use the drop going down fast descents.

Is that through choice or because that's where the brakes are? A lot of
people say it is hard on the neck on a long descent. I prefer to see where
I am going.

Quoted message said:

The main difference is that with drops I tend to ride withwith the heel
of my palms resting on the bars about 1/2 way in whereas with straight
bars I was gripping the well er grips. Somehow this meant that my wrists
were more bent - I think this was the main problem.

So otherwise you habitually ride on the rear of the bar? Without bar ends I
just put my hands over the brake bodies. When I have bar ends I mount them
inboard of the grips.