I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
(It resisted the Park pin removal tool and has resisted all punches without budging. We had it well secured before hammering, etc.)
Will heat maybe help? I'm trying to not hurt the crank.
I wonder if the crank arm will even come off after the pin is removed? (To do that, should I try the pipes on crank-arms routine?)
I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
Quoted message said:
(It resisted the Park pin removal tool and has resisted all punches without budging. We had it well secured before hammering, etc.)
Quoted message said:
Will heat maybe help? I'm trying to not hurt the crank.
Quoted message said:
I wonder if the crank arm will even come off after the pin is removed? (To do that, should I try the pipes on crank-arms routine?)
Most cotters that I found were too soft to do the job. It is a fairly high stress contact that requires good steel. The only ones I found in the olden days when we rode such cranks were "Acier Dupratnik".
I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
Quoted message said:
(It resisted the Park pin removal tool and has resisted all punches without budging. We had it well secured before hammering, etc.)
Quoted message said:
Will heat maybe help? I'm trying to not hurt the crank.
Quoted message said:
I wonder if the crank arm will even come off after the pin is removed? (To do that, should I try the pipes on crank-arms routine?)
Most cotters that I found were too soft to do the job. It is a fairly high stress contact that requires good steel. The only ones I found in the olden days when we rode such cranks were "Acier Dupratnik".
Perhaps the cotter has become deformed such that the crank was stuck. The psoter has said he has drilled out the pin; assuming that the axle and crank can be or are seperated from the frame, it should be a moment's work with a small press to get the axle out of the crank, and more than likely the crank and axle will be no worse.
I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
Quoted message said:
---Jeff Potter, emailing from the bike shop
Just a warning. I hope you hammered on it withg the axle fully supported (this is not easy to do), otherwise the bottom bracket has likely been toasted. When you get done removing the bottom bracket, look for evidence of brinneling in the drive-side cups and/or axle and discard the BB/axle if it has been damaged.
I think www.sjscycles.com still has cottered bottom brackets for sale. QBP has sugino / china cups. Spindles? I don't know where these can be purchased.
I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
Quoted message said:
Just a warning. I hope you hammered on it with the axle fully supported (this is not easy to do), otherwise the bottom bracket has likely been toasted. When you get done removing the bottom bracket, look for evidence of brinneling in the drive-side cups and/or axle and discard the BB/axle if it has been damaged.
Don't go fear mongering. Cotters have been hammered in and out for many years with marginal or no support for the crank and I never saw a dimpled BB spindle. That is what got me started thinking about what caused dimpled head bearings and that it could not be road shock transmitted through a pneumatic tire.
Quoted message said:
I think www.sjscycles.com still has cottered bottom brackets for sale. QBP has Sugino / china cups. Spindles? I don't know where these can be purchased.
It's the cotters that aren't available. Even when these were the mainline of better bicycles, they were hard to find. As I said, "Acier Dupratnik" (F).
I'm trying to remove a cotter pin from a 1974 Stronglight crank. We've cut the pin off from both sides and drilled it out nearly entirely with a drill press.
Quoted message said:
---Jeff Potter, emailing from the bike shop
Just a warning. I hope you hammered on it withg the axle fully supported (this is not easy to do), otherwise the bottom bracket has likely been toasted. When you get done removing the bottom bracket, look for evidence of brinneling in the drive-side cups and/or axle and discard the BB/axle if it has been damaged.
We used to bash away on cotter pins with all of our might, and never, ever damaged a bottom bracket. Have you ever damaged a bottom bracket this way? Anyone?
--
David L. Johnson
__o | Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President _`\(,_ | should on no account be allowed to do the job. -- Douglas Adams (_)/ (_) |
Gauge the size of the gap between the crank and spindle, and use the largest drill bit that will clear. No press is needed, as the bit will take the path of least resistance - through the softer pin remains, leaving the other parts unscathed. Then try punches again. Incidentally, a propane torch has worked for me, but as I recall, that was with a whole, undrilled pin. I took care not to get the crank so hot that damage seemed likely.
You got to be very careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there.
It's the cotters that aren't available. Even when these were the mainline of better bicycles, they were hard to find. As I said, "Acier Dupratnik" (F).
Nonsense. bikeplus on ebay has them. Many UK shops have them, e.g.:
On 29 Sep 2006 11:00:40 -0700, [email hidden] (Donald Gillies)
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
It's the cotters that aren't available. Even when these were the mainline of better bicycles, they were hard to find. As I said, "Acier Dupratnik" (F).
Nonsense. bikeplus on ebay has them. Many UK shops have them, e.g.:
