holes in frame help



L

lancerfan119

Guest
does anybody know how to stratigically place holes of one was to drill a
torker DX 06 frame, or any frame
is it worth it, or should i get a nimbus 2 frame?


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lancerfan119

lookin for more people to muni with in the bay area or reno/tahoe are
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lancerfan119 wrote:
> does anybody know how to stratigically place holes of one was to drill a
> torker DX 06 frame, or any frame
> is it worth it, or should i get a nimbus 2 frame?




If I were you, I'd give the holes-in-frame thing a try. I doubt it will
make it too much lighter, and be conservative in hole size and
placement. At the worst it will look cool.


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DK

*sunday bombs
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Don't drill it. Drilling stuff like a frame isn't easy... As the drill
penetrates the steel, it will raise a burr that will be hell to knock
off. I tried drilling a frame, and it was just hell. Unless you have
the right clamps to hold down the frame, and a bunch of skill on a
milwaulkee hole shooter or equivalent drill, don't try this. If you
want to use a drill press, hold the frame with clamps. It's suicidal to
do this with ones hands.

Just get a Yuni frame. The weight savings from drilling are negligible
anyways.


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gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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don't drill a frame unless (as mentioned) you really really know what
you're doing. just ride with the heavier frame. unless you're doing
trials it won't make much of a difference, and will only make you
stronger.


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markf

stuck in iowa and unemployed.
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nah it wont be hard ot get burr wont be hard to get off, run it likly
agaist a bench grinder wheel or on a big belt sander.


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Evan Byrne

"Guns cause crime like flies cause garbage." -Harper


"My nuts are allways loose, i have to twist them with my fingers"
-Spencer
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Or get a countersinking bit and use that to finish off the hole (or maybe if
you're careful, the tip of a really big drill bit... but be careful it
doesn't skitter off)

Cheers,
Mark

Evan Byrne wrote:

>
> nah it wont be hard ot get burr wont be hard to get off, run it likly
> agaist a bench grinder wheel or on a big belt sander.
>
>
 
Evan Byrne wrote:
> nah it wont be hard ot get burr wont be hard to get off, run it likly
> agaist a bench grinder wheel or on a big belt sander.




I don't think you understand or have drilled a frame before. The burr
isn't raised, per se, it is the final section of the hole once the
drillbit has broken through. I've deburred parts, but this burr just
grabs the spiral of the flutes and is wicked hard to break. You can't
get a bench grinder or belit sander into the hole to knock it off.
Also, evan, just so you know, a c'sink or large drill bit is what you
generally deburr with for holes, not a grinder.


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gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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It really won't be worth it, you might shave a few grams at best and
will quite possibly seriously compromise your frame. Having done some
work lightening racing cars I have experience of how little mass
cutting holes in things really removes, a decent set of pedals or an
alloy seatpost will do much more for you, albeit i admit and much
greater cost.


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kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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The only unicycle frames you should drill are bladed ones, like the
Schwinn and Semcycle Deluxe. Drilling a tubular frame will make it a
lot weaker, and not noticeably lighter.

I've drilled a couple of Schwinn frames, and as long as you don't go
too big, it won't hurt their strength unless you really abuse them. My
45" big wheel, though not really a Schwinn, has 7/8" holes all the way
down. Plus an old racing uni I did had 1" holes in it. On that one I
also drilled out the seat post, with seat post holes all the way up,
and same-sized holes front-to-back.


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johnfoss

John Foss
"jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
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