Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Home made truing stand designs

Started by Doug Goncz · · Last activity · 8 posts · 9,452 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
19 January 2004
Last activity
22 January 2004
Original author
Doug Goncz
Posts
8
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  1. Hi gang!

    Have you seen a good home made truing stand design or web page describing a design anywhere? If
    so, I would like to put together a reference page linking to all of them, and build a stand, too,
    by the way.

    A fork in vise works particularly well for my front wheel as my vise has a 120 degree V slot,
    vertically, for a collet block. It's a "cross vise" for milling and locating holes.

    But the rear doesn't fit in the front. Well, it does if I remove five 4 mm spacers..... and the
    freewheel. Something you can't do with a freehub. But then you have to disk it manually.

    Brother Jeff made a decent stand of angle iron, sawed, and bent.

    I made a knock down stand in shop class but never assembled it.

    What have you seen?

    My senior project at ODU: Google Groups, then "dgoncz" and some of: ultracapacitor bicycle
    fluorescent flywheel inverter Equipped with BoBike Mini removable child seat, too!

  2. I use an old pair of front forks and widened them so that I could fit in rear wheels up to 130 mm
    although it would go wider.When I do front wheels I just space the difference so the rim ends up in
    the middle.The way I make sure the rim ends up in the middle when truing the wheel is to :1]put the
    wheel in the stand 2]put a piece of masking tape below the rim across the stand and mark on it where
    the centre of the left rim edge is,make sure the valve hole is in line with the edge of the tape.
    3]turn the wheel around and do the same again this time you are marking the right side of the rim
    centre which has now become the left as you look at it 4]what you should have on the tape are two
    lines you now put a line inbetween the two and make up your wheel to that line.You have to make sure
    that the points on the edge centres of the rim that you mark on the tape are exactly opposite each
    other thats why I say use the valve hole as a guide. This reads more complicated than it is in
    practice.When you put the wheel on the bike and its not in the centre adjust the frame not the wheel
    would be my advice but hey go your own way

  3. I've been thinking about this recently, since I've just built my first wheel, and want a way to true
    it indoors without bringing the bike inside. One problem is that I've never seen a real truing stand
    up close. I'm not sure how they handle the different widths of front and rear wheels, but my plan is
    to use a single vertical post, welded to a chunk of 2x6 channel, for a stable, heavy base. The post
    is a piece of 1" conduit, with a double-thick dropout made from angle iron welded on top, so that
    the wheel clamps only on one side. The indicators are the tough part. I'm thinking about magnets
    with pieces of welding rod epoxied to them vertically, so the magnets can be placed anywhere on the
    base, with the rod sticking up to touch the side of the rim. I'd really prefer to find a simple set
    of calipers at Harbor Freight, though, and mount them to the base.

    Sheldon's web instructions made it easy to lace up the wheel; but now I want to true it and tension
    it, so I can try it out.

    Dave Wilson www.davewilson.cc

  4. (Dave Wilson) said:

    I've been thinking about this recently, since I've just built my first wheel, and want a way to
    true it indoors without bringing the bike inside. One problem is that I've never seen a real truing
    stand up close. I'm not sure how they handle the different widths of front and rear wheels, but my
    plan is to use a single vertical post, welded to a chunk of 2x6 channel, for a stable, heavy base.
    The post is a piece of 1" conduit, with a double-thick dropout made from angle iron welded on top,
    so that the wheel clamps only on one side. The indicators are the tough part. I'm thinking about
    magnets with pieces of welding rod epoxied to them vertically, so the magnets can be placed
    anywhere on the base, with the rod sticking up to touch the side of the rim. I'd really prefer to
    find a simple set of calipers at Harbor Freight, though, and mount them to the base.

    Use a dial indicator. It makes truing really easy, much easier than listening for the scraping of
    metal. Watch the needle and you get a clear picture of what the rim is up to. Forget the precision
    issue- the way it makes visible what the rim is up to is great.

    harborfreight.comDisplayitem.taf

    Easy to build a mount and clamp it on the vertical support. A pony clamp is plenty strong. By
    flipping the wheel you can check for proper dishing. By turning the mounting bracket, moving
    the indicator under the wheel, and putting a small block on the tip, you can do vertical truing
    as quickly.

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon's web instructions made it easy to lace up the wheel; but now I want to true it and tension
    it, so I can try it out.

    Dave Wilson www.davewilson.cc

  5. On 19 Jan 2004 07:44:11 GMT, [email hidden] ( Doug Goncz ) may

    have said:

    What have you seen?

    A $10 junk-quality 6/12/18-speed bike from Goodwill, stripped of virtually everything, and attached
    to a piece of 2x12 as a base. It can be used on a table or other support. Disadvantage: If you do
    both mtb and road wheels, it's hard to find one junker with the ability to accept both types of
    wheel. 7, 8 and 9sp wheels are usually easy to drop in if you spread the hangers just a bit. This
    also provides a quick check of the dish.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
    it's also possible that I'm busy.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  6. Do not forget that you will need to dish the wheel. A seperate tool can be used for that. Or even
    make one. I have seen ones made from wood that worked rather well. I had a truing stand for a long
    time that I bought used from a bike store. It worked great until I lost a part when moving to a
    new house.

    Steve

    Werehatrack <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    ( Doug Goncz ) may have said:

    What have you seen?

    A $10 junk-quality 6/12/18-speed bike from Goodwill, stripped of virtually everything, and
    attached to a piece of 2x12 as a base. It can be used on a table or other support. Disadvantage:
    If you do both mtb and road wheels, it's hard to find one junker with the ability to accept both
    types of wheel. 7, 8 and 9sp wheels are usually easy to drop in if you spread the hangers just a
    bit. This also provides a quick check of the dish.

  7. In article <[email hidden]>,

    (Steven Gee) said:

    Do not forget that you will need to dish the wheel. A seperate tool can be used for that. Or even
    make one. I have seen ones made from wood that worked rather well. I had a truing stand for a long
    time that I bought used from a bike store. It worked great until I lost a part when moving to a
    new house.

    Is it a Park? They'll sell you small parts. I learned this thanks to my serendipitous acquisition of
    a mostly-complete set of dropout alignment tools.

    Contact them directly.
    --
    Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousine President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

  8. dgoncz-<< If so, I would like to put together a reference page linking to all of them, and build a
    stand, too, by the way.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <BR><BR>

    I have an old(15 years+) Park TS-2 for sale. Loose and needs an overhaul(Park can do it)...I'll sell
    it for $25 plus the shipping($15) since it ain't light.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

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