Houston Frame restorers

[John L. Lucci]

Does anyone know of a Houston Texas area frame restorer? I have a nice
'88-89 vintage Specialized Sirrus (This is from when the Sirrus was
still a road racing frame and still a road racing Allez under the
cheaper, flasher paint and stickers.) that could use some touchup work.
Especially the front fork tips. The paint on this bike is especially
soft and almost immediately when the bike was new the paint chipped off
the front fork tips where it comes in contact with the quick release
"nut" and cam.

Although I know that a newer bike would probably be more cost-effective
than a restoration. I can't bring myself to go that route in light of
the fact that this Sirrus as may be at most 5000 miles on it and is
practically new. Also, being 5'4" it's hard to find a frame that really
fits in this particular frame is a 43mm/14.5in.

In a related question would it be worth while upgrading the entire bike
with modern components (triple front chain rings, 10 speed rear hub,
Brifters, etc.) As it stands the drive train is practically new albeit
' 88-89 technology [double front chain rings originally biopace, but
converted to campy round rings 52 and 43 respectivelyand a shimano 105
six speed rear hub and index shifting all around].) The only weakness
is that the rear rim is almost played out (and I suspect it's probably
the weight gain that I've undergone (when I first got the bike I was
maybe 145 pounds and I am now 40 pounds heavier than that). Am I
expecting too much for stock 32 spoke 700C wheels to support 185 pounds
of weight?

Thanks!

John

 

[Curt Wiederhoeft]

John L. Lucci wrote:

> Does anyone know of a Houston Texas area frame restorer? I have a nice
> '88-89 vintage Specialized Sirrus (This is from when the Sirrus was
> still a road racing frame and still a road racing Allez under the
> cheaper, flasher paint and stickers.) that could use some touchup work.

If all you need is a touch-up, I'd highly recommend just doing it
yourself. You can find a dazzling array of car touch-up paint in little
bottles with tiny little brushes. If you can track down the original
spec on your bike's color, you can probably find a car painted in that
same shade, and pick up the paint at a dealership. I've been lucky in
that the Medium Steel Blue on my 1990 bike was still in use by BMW up
until 2002 (I always wanted to get a Z3 to match my bike!) In a pinch,
fingernail polish will work almost as well.

> In a related question would it be worth while upgrading the entire bike
> with modern components (triple front chain rings, 10 speed rear hub,
> Brifters, etc.)

The above-mentioned bike was built by Romic Cycles in northwest
Houston. Ray, the founder, died a few years ago, but his son is still
carrying on and rumor has it that he does pretty good work. When I
considered upgrading my bike last year, he gave me a price of $700 to
strip all the old paint, spread the rear stays and install a new bridge
to accommodate a modern rear wheel, and re-paint the frame. I didn't
ask if that included removing and/or installing components. It turned
out that I was able to "manually" spread my stays from 126 (7-speed) to
130 (9-speed) without the need for him to do any brazing work, so I did
it the quick and cheap paint touch-up method I mentioned above. Which
left me with enough $$ to afford a whole new STI setup, and I can't
recommend *that* upgrade highly enough! I'd recommend a
consultation/visit with your LBS before attempting to install a triple
on the front, though. The arrangement of your BB and chainstays might
not allow it.

Romic's info:
Romic Cycle Co Inc
22806 Industry Ln, Tomball, TX 77375
(281) 351-9193

> The only weakness
> is that the rear rim is almost played out (and I suspect it's probably
> the weight gain that I've undergone (when I first got the bike I was
> maybe 145 pounds and I am now 40 pounds heavier than that). Am I
> expecting too much for stock 32 spoke 700C wheels to support 185 pounds
> of weight?

A 32-spoke wheel shouldn't have had any problem carrying 185 lbs. If It
won't stay true, it makes it logically easier to just trash it. A new
wheel, properly dished for 9 or 10 speeds, can be found practically
anywhere. And the higher the spoke count, the cheaper it should be.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

Curt

 

[Michael Press]

In article <[email protected]>,
"John L. Lucci" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Does anyone know of a Houston Texas area frame restorer? I have a nice
> '88-89 vintage Specialized Sirrus (This is from when the Sirrus was
> still a road racing frame and still a road racing Allez under the
> cheaper, flasher paint and stickers.) that could use some touchup work.
> Especially the front fork tips. The paint on this bike is especially
> soft and almost immediately when the bike was new the paint chipped off
> the front fork tips where it comes in contact with the quick release
> "nut" and cam.
>
> Although I know that a newer bike would probably be more cost-effective
> than a restoration. I can't bring myself to go that route in light of
> the fact that this Sirrus as may be at most 5000 miles on it and is
> practically new. Also, being 5'4" it's hard to find a frame that really
> fits in this particular frame is a 43mm/14.5in.
>
> In a related question would it be worth while upgrading the entire bike
> with modern components (triple front chain rings, 10 speed rear hub,
> Brifters, etc.) As it stands the drive train is practically new albeit
> ' 88-89 technology [double front chain rings originally biopace, but
> converted to campy round rings 52 and 43 respectivelyand a shimano 105
> six speed rear hub and index shifting all around].) The only weakness
> is that the rear rim is almost played out (and I suspect it's probably
> the weight gain that I've undergone (when I first got the bike I was
> maybe 145 pounds and I am now 40 pounds heavier than that). Am I
> expecting too much for stock 32 spoke 700C wheels to support 185 pounds
> of weight?

Houston is quite flat, I thought. The front chain wheels
are well suited to flat terrain. Does the gearing not suit
you? How many cogs on the rear cogwheels? I think the
gearing and all are fine the way you describe it.

Such wheels could be made sufficiently strong for you. Age
has probably caught up with the wheels. You should measure
the actual rim wall thicknes. Remove the tire. Put a
bearing ball inside the rim, measure the thickness of ball
and wall, subtract the diameter of the ball to get the rim
wall thickness. Measure several places. The rim wall
should be more thatn 0.5 mm thick. If the rim wallsare
sufficiently thick, then true the wheel. Put penetrating
lubricant, such as LPS2, on the spokes and nipples the day
before you attempt to turn the spoke nipples to free the
threads.

Would you like to know how to build wheels?. If the rim is
worn out, you might find a rim with the same effective rim
diameter (ERD); i.e. would use the same length spokes as
you have. Then you can lace the new rim onto the hub one
spoke at a time, then tighten, true, tension-balance, and
stress relieve the new wheel. Or maybe you need to
replace the spokes also.

I opine: do not put all that money into a new set of
components. If you do then build 36 spoke wheels as well.
And if you do decide to change the components look for
used equipment. There is plenty of great stuff floating
around. Good luck.

--
Michael Press

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 09:08:58 GMT, "John L. Lucci"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Although I know that a newer bike would probably be more cost-effective
>than a restoration. I can't bring myself to go that route in light of
>the fact that this Sirrus as may be at most 5000 miles on it and is
>practically new. Also, being 5'4" it's hard to find a frame that really
>fits in this particular frame is a 43mm/14.5in.

If it fits, it's cheaper than buying a new one.

>In a related question would it be worth while upgrading the entire bike
>with modern components (triple front chain rings, 10 speed rear hub,
>Brifters, etc.) As it stands the drive train is practically new albeit
>' 88-89 technology [double front chain rings originally biopace, but
>converted to campy round rings 52 and 43 respectivelyand a shimano 105
>six speed rear hub and index shifting all around].) The only weakness
>is that the rear rim is almost played out (and I suspect it's probably
>the weight gain that I've undergone (when I first got the bike I was
>maybe 145 pounds and I am now 40 pounds heavier than that). Am I
>expecting too much for stock 32 spoke 700C wheels to support 185 pounds
>of weight?

Sure, why not upgrade. As long as you do the work yourself, the cost of a
full new set of components ought to be at or just under the level of an
entire bike with the same components (consider buying a bike with your
level of kit on and selling the frame & fork off on ebay -- you might get
a cheaper deal that way).

When you say 'the rim is almost played out', what exactly do you mean?
Rims usually wear out on the braking surfaces, and that's caused by, you
guessed it, braking.

Jasper

 

[Chalo]

Jasper Janssen wrote:
>
> When you say 'the rim is almost played out', what exactly do you mean?
> Rims usually wear out on the braking surfaces, and that's caused by, you
> guessed it, braking.

I have never had a rim wear out from brake wear. They always become
bent to the point that thay can no longer be trued. I would not be
surprised if that is what the OP means by "almost played out".

When I lived in Austin, Texas (where it rains infrequently) and I
worked as a bike shop mechanic, the only rims I ever saw with major
brake track wear were those used by off-road cyclists.

Chalo Colina

 

[Chalo]

Jasper Janssen wrote:
>
> When you say 'the rim is almost played out', what exactly do you mean?
> Rims usually wear out on the braking surfaces, and that's caused by, you
> guessed it, braking.

I have never had a rim wear out from brake wear. They always become
bent to the point that thay can no longer be trued. I would not be
surprised if that is what the OP means by "almost played out".

When I lived in Austin, Texas (where it rains infrequently) and I
worked as a bike shop mechanic, the only rims I ever saw with major
brake track wear were those used by off-road cyclists.

Chalo Colina