How is this Ultegra and SRAM setup?

tkehler said:

Crank: R700 compact 50-34 (10 sp, obviously)
FD: Shimano Ultegra 6700
RD: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Shifters: Dura Ace bar end (the 7800 series, not the cooler new ones :o
Chain: KMC 10.93
Cassette: !?!?!

Was thinking about a SRAM 1070 11-28 cassette...

Brakes: Ultegra 6600
Levers: beats me, either Tektro ergo or Cane Creek?!

Any compatibility issues pop out at you?

FWIW. Something that I think you may want to consider is that you will be paying a(n unnecessary) premium when you choose most Cane Creek labeled 'stuff' item over the same item which has the manufacturer's label ...

The Cane Creek Road levers are made by Tektro ... and, that is why they look like Tektro levers.

The Cane Creek Road brake calipers were made by Tektro the last time I looked (i.e., RX 4.0)... previously, the single pivot Cane Creek calipers were made by DiaCompe ...

Et cetera.

BTW. If that crank & cassette combination which you spec'd are for a Touring bike, then you may as well go-for-broke and get a cassette with a larger large cog AND THEN choose/install a long cage rear derailleur.

While it isn't necessary, my preference is to use a long cage rear derailleur + the front derailleur which are intended for a Triple when I use a compact crankset ... more so, the former than the latter (regardless of the cassette) ... using a long cage rear derailleur is a legacy from decades ago when my bike was set up with what used to be referred to as "Alpine" gearing (52-36 & 50-34) because you just never know how much chain you might want & having a slack chain is a bit untidy.

tkehler said:

Crank: R700 compact 50-34 (10 sp, obviously)
FD: Shimano Ultegra 6700
RD: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Shifters: Dura Ace bar end (the 7800 series, not the cooler new ones :o
Chain: KMC 10.93
Cassette: !?!?!

Was thinking about a SRAM 1070 11-28 cassette...

Brakes: Ultegra 6600
Levers: beats me, either Tektro ergo or Cane Creek?!

Any compatibility issues pop out at you?

Cheers

Nope, it'll work well. Get the Tektro levers...

Thanks! These are helpful responses. I'll go with Tektro, which I have tried and liked on my commuter.

Re: the rear 6700 derailleur, owing to a screw up with my 105 triple crankset -- who knew that the non-drive spacer is a unique item (which I've lost)? -- I've gone to the compact crank.

So I actually have both the 6700 ss and the 6700 gs rear derailleurs...

To be accurate, the gs is a medium cage and the ss is short cage; there is no longer a long cage Ultegra derailleur being made. What we call long is -- I'm told -- a medium. But whatever.

So for chain reasons I should prefer the gs aka the medium? hmmm. Must ponder this.

But thanks.

tkehler said:

Thanks! These are helpful responses. I'll go with Tektro, which I have tried and liked on my commuter.

Re: the rear 6700 derailleur, owing to a screw up with my 105 triple crankset -- who knew that the non-drive spacer is a unique item (which I've lost)? -- I've gone to the compact crank.

So I actually have both the 6700 ss and the 6700 gs rear derailleurs...

To be accurate, the gs is a medium cage and the ss is short cage; there is no longer a long cage Ultegra derailleur being made. What we call long is -- I'm told -- a medium. But whatever.

So for chain reasons I should prefer the gs aka the medium? hmmm. Must ponder this.

But thanks.

The difference for SS and GS cages was for double and triple chainsets. The longer armed medium cage gave a wider capacity for the chainrings. The largest sprocket on the rear was still the same - officially listed as 27, although you can nearly always get a 30 to work.

The short cage SS mech will work fine with the compact.

tkehler said:

Re: the rear 6700 derailleur, owing to a screw up with my 105 triple crankset -- who knew that the non-drive spacer is a unique item (which I've lost)? -- I've gone to the compact crank.

So I actually have both the 6700 ss and the 6700 gs rear derailleurs...

To be accurate, the gs is a medium cage and the ss is short cage; there is no longer a long cage Ultegra derailleur being made. What we call long is -- I'm told -- a medium. But whatever.

So for chain reasons I should prefer the gs aka the medium? hmmm. Must ponder this.

Well, GS is medium for a MTB rear derailleur & long for a Road rear derailleur ...

Regardless, using a GS rear deralleur allows 'me' the instant option of using as wussy a cassette as I want/need without worrying about whether or not the drivetrain has enough chain (see attached pic) ...
[INDENT]About 10 years ago, after analyzing why Shimano Road derailleurs were only spec'd to handle a 27t cog, I realized that Shimano had crippled the capacity by specing the 11t upper pulley wheel, and subsequently, I automatically replace the 11t pulley with a 10t on all my Shimano Road rear derailleurs regardless of the bike or the cassette ... that's a really wussy 12-34 (!?!) cassette in the attached pic, BTW.
[/INDENT]MY preference certainly does NOT have to be your preference!

NON-DRIVESIDE HOLLOWTECH II SPACER REPLACEMENT-or-SUBSTITUTE. Okay, not having that 2mm (?) thick disc isn't the end of the world ... you have two options ... make a disc out of stock aluminum OR (and, this is my suggestion for you) either take a cog spacer from a cassette (you'll need a half-round file to remove the 'notches' on the inner circumference) or scrounge in your toolbox for a couple of unused BB spacers from a 73mm BB. Of couse, you would insert the spacer(s) between the frame & non-driveside external BB cup ... done!

The inconvenience is that you can't hot-swap the Triple for a Double, or vice versa, without inserting-or-removing the spacer(s) that you use to offset the non-driveside BB cup.

swampy1970 said:

... officially listed as 27, although you can nearly always get a 30 to work.

FWIW. Based on the variety of styles of rear dropouts on my bikes, I think that 27t spec is for the worst case scenario of mounting a 9-/10-speed Shimano Road derailleur on a frame which had a Campagnolo dropout which was designed for a Nuovo Record, or equivalent, rear derailleur ... that is, the specification of 27t maximum cog probably presumes a dropout whose derailleur hanger has a minimal drop ...

On a frame with just such a horizontal dropout, the maximum cog size is a 32t AFTER tweaking the B-screw adjustment.

alfeng said:

Well, GS is medium for a MTB rear derailleur & long for a Road rear derailleur ...

Regardless, using a GS rear deralleur allows 'me' the instant option of using as wussy a cassette as I want/need without worrying about whether or not the drivetrain has enough chain (see attached pic) ...
[INDENT]About 10 years ago, after analyzing why Shimano Road derailleurs were only spec'd to handle a 27t cog, I realized that Shimano had crippled the capacity by specing the 11t upper pulley wheel, and subsequently, I automatically replace the 11t pulley with a 10t on all my Shimano Road rear derailleurs regardless of the bike or the cassette ... that's a really wussy 12-34 (!?!) cassette in the attached pic, BTW.
[/INDENT]MY preference certainly does NOT have to be your preference!

where did you get 10T pulleys? are Shimano 8 speed or 9 speed 10T pulleys compatible with Shimano 10 speed?

alfeng said:

Well, GS is medium for a MTB rear derailleur & long for a Road rear derailleur ...

Regardless, using a GS rear deralleur allows 'me' the instant option of using as wussy a cassette as I want/need without worrying about whether or not the drivetrain has enough chain (see attached pic) ...
[INDENT]About 10 years ago, after analyzing why Shimano Road derailleurs were only spec'd to handle a 27t cog, I realized that Shimano had crippled the capacity by specing the 11t upper pulley wheel, and subsequently, I automatically replace the 11t pulley with a 10t on all my Shimano Road rear derailleurs regardless of the bike or the cassette ... that's a really wussy 12-34 (!?!) cassette in the attached pic, BTW.
[/INDENT]MY preference certainly does NOT have to be your preference!

NON-DRIVESIDE HOLLOWTECH II SPACER REPLACEMENT-or-SUBSTITUTE. Okay, not having that 2mm (?) thick disc isn't the end of the world ... you have two options ... make a disc out of stock aluminum OR (and, this is my suggestion for you) either take a cog spacer from a cassette (you'll need a half-round file to remove the 'notches' on the inner circumference) or scrounge in your toolbox for a couple of unused BB spacers from a 73mm BB. Of couse, you would insert the spacer(s) between the frame & non-driveside external BB cup ... done!

The inconvenience is that you can't hot-swap the Triple for a Double, or vice versa, without inserting-or-removing the spacer(s) that you use to offset the non-driveside BB cup.

That is quite brilliant (adapting a cog spacer for use as a Hollowtech II spacer).

But as it happens (cringe) I am also with the 6.5 (?) mm spacer on the drive side. In my defence, I picked up this crankset over a year ago for a song, and didn't unpack it 'til last week, assuming everything was there in the bag.

What I've done though is pick up an Ultegra 10 sp. 11-23 rear cassette from a guy at Weight Weenies. That'll work because I'm on a 24" wheelset (which makes my 23 cog seem like a 28). And I can use the short cage RD.

Cheers

tkehler said:

...

And I can use the short cage RD.

Cheers

Ooops, forgot to add that I could always use the short cage RD, for as one of you kindly pointed out (Swampy1970), the Shimano short cage is good to about the 30 tooth cog.

rparedes said:

where did you get 10T pulleys? are Shimano 8 speed or 9 speed 10T pulleys compatible with Shimano 10 speed?

Yes, 10t pulleys from an 8-speed Shimano rear derailleur will fit in a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur.

Way back when, I initially used a 10t aftermarket alloy pulley that I had, but I also play-musical-chairs with 10t pulleys from some XTR 950 rear derailleurs. The above pictured 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur has one of those 8-speed Shimano pulley wheels ...

AND, I would think that one could certainly use a 10t Campagnolo pulley wheel from any recent (certainly, post-1998 & possibly some earlier vintage pulley wheels might work) rear derailleur ... replacement Campy pulley wheels are readily available ... and, I presume alloy pulley wheels are still available even though they don't seem to be marketed (maybe they are being marketed and I'm just not paying attention).

A pulley from a 7-speed Shimano rear derailleur will not fit without modification because the bushing is about 1mm (?) longer, BTW.

tkehler said:

But as it happens (cringe) I am also without the 6.5 (?) mm spacer on the drive side. In my defence, I picked up this crankset over a year ago for a song, and didn't unpack it 'til last week, assuming everything was there in the bag.

I presume your crank is missing the Black collar that nests against the crank's spider ...

The remedy is to go to a 'hardware' store and buy some 1" Inner Diameter (24mm would be better) copper tubing, a tubing cutter, and fabricate a collar -- I don't think the collar has to be snug ... if you don't want it to float, then just pack it with some tub-and-tile caulk.

Copper tubing is soft, but should be firm enough ... brass tubing would be better ...

Heck, I'm just lazy enough that I would see if I could just take some 1/4" wide brass stock which you would buy at a "hobby"-or-craft store and coil it around the spindle (a couple of times ... two times, minimum for stoutness) to make the offsetting collar ... I would either wrap a couple of extra 'winds' around the spindle or solder the 'loose' end.