Aloha!
For my cycling exploits, I thought it would be a nice idea to have a
big map, on my wall, of the local area -- covering my effective range.
On to which, I could mark good routes with highlighter pens; perhaps
using different colours for different grades, danger-areas, traffic
black-spots, that sort of thing. (Note that this is the only relation
to cycling that this post bears -- fortunately, this group is largely
free of "Off-Topic Nazis"!)
Anyway, here I hope to share my results of producing such an apparatus,
in a Blue Peter stylée. Although, I'd better start by saying I wasn't
particularly successful, so this is more of a "How Not To" guide; but,
there are a number of things I've learnt to avoid, should you wish to
make something similar... This, amongst other tidbits, will be uploaded
to my website in such time that I can be bothered! In the meanwhile,
you guys get first look-sees 🙂
...:: The Maps ::..
Ordinance Survey Landranger (1:50,000) maps are perfect: They show all
the roads you could ever need and cover a good-sized area. They,
obviously, cover the entire country and there is little overlap: you
will most likely need to put three-or-four (probably more for
randonées) together, so there will be minimum wastage (i.e. common
bits that are on several maps).
They're not too expensive, either -- if you buy them from Amazon, you
get the subsequent ones at a reduced rate. I think W.H.Smith's have a
similar deal. Ideally, one would buy the sheet maps, but these are very
hard to find -- the folded variety pose little problem... You can also
buy direct from OS, online. Their "OS Select" service actually allows
you to centre your map on a particular address: this is pretty neat,
but you do have to pay quite a premium; furthermore, most cyclists will
find one 1:50,000 map too restrictive in terms of range.
OS' Explorer (1:25,000) maps, on the other hand, are just too detailed
as far as cycling is concerned -- you'll be off the edge of the map in
no-time. It would be expensive, too; having to obviously get more maps
to cover the same area (which would also take-up far more space)...
Having said that, for mountain bikers and off-roaders, they might be
better -- it's not my thing, but that extra detail may be beneficial
for such activities.
OS also do some larger scale maps, but these don't show the minor roads
and lanes (presumably). They also seems to be rather awkwardly
distributed; which can be annoying if you live (as I do) near the
"edge" of one of their regions... If only they'd do their OS Select at
1:75,000 and 1:100,000; giving you the options of size and information.
Of course, if you're really cheapskate, you could print-out every OS
map you need from their website... Life's too short for that 😉
* http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/
* http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/search/?field-keywords=OS%20Landranger
Cutting and pasting maps together is really easy -- if you can't follow
the OS grid, you probably shouldn't be going outside or using scissors
anyway 😉 I found that sticking the joins with Magic Tape, in smallish
pieces, worked quite well: because the joins are very long, this way
you can correct any alignment problems as they happen. It's
nigh-on-impossible to get it dead-straight (i.e. without having to make
such corrections) unless you have a very large, open floor and an army
of helpers to hold things down!
One thing I should point-out, however -- which I have already hinted on
-- the folded maps are creased (hence the name). You cannot completely
remove these creases, but you can iron them out adequately. If you do
it from the back of the map, this will save any possible bleeding of
the print. Do not use steam!... It's best to iron before you stick your
maps together.
...:: The Roller ::..
The problem with having such a large map (easily 1.5m square) is that
one is pushed to find anywhere for it to be mounted. Ideally, it would
be mounted on a board (MDF, say) and screwed to the wall. However, as
well as space restrictions, this can be something of an eye-sore
(although, personally, I find maps quite fascinating; but they
certainly don't fit with the décor!).
Of course, what would be really cool is the map flat on a table, with
some strong lighting over it. Then you could have a little bike "puck",
that could be pushed around with a de-bristled broom... OK, perhaps too
many war movies! (But it would be cool 😉
I digress!... The solution is: roller blinds.
One can either make their own roller blind, if they're very bored and
can find a DIY shop that still stocks the mechanism; or just buy one
and save a lot of hassle! There are several places online that stock
good quality blinds in all shapes and sizes -- and a few that do custom
sizes. They're inexpensive and do the job a treat.
I would recommend getting a custom-made blind, to the size of your map
(plus a few centimetres around the edges, for luck). Make sure you read
the small print when sizing-up the blind, as the size is often the
window frame size, not the fabric size -- all the sites I found were
pretty clear and easy to follow. As close to white fabric as you can
get (they all seem to do about 5,000 different shades of cream) with a
manual string/winder pull, not a spring-loaded thing (the map won't
take that kind of punishment); I leave the scalloped edging at your
discretion :P
* http://www.blinds4uk.co.uk/product.php?call=pdetail&pid=1
* http://www.blinds-2go.co.uk/roller_blinds.asp
A stock unit is just as good as custom-made, however it can be hard to
get them big enough to accommodate a large (especially wide) map. On
the plus side, they're cheaper and will arrive sooner.
...:: The Science Bit ::..
Now comes the hard part: fixing your map to your roller blind.
Conceptually, it's not difficult; in practise, it's a real pain dealing
with a huge bit of paper that just wants to buckle in all the wrong
places!
Make sure your map is flat in one piece. I mistakenly had "wings" on
either side of my map, which were parts that I rarely cycle to, but
could potentially. I folded these up and, the idea was, they could be
unfolded when required; but otherwise rolled-up unused... It didn't
happen! One layer of paper is about all the roller blind can take; any
more and it'll buckle and go all over the place. I had to cut them off
and reside to the fact that I'm never going to cycle to Banbury and the
Forest of Dean is too hard to get to!
OK, let's talk gluing... I glued my map in two halves (to make sure it
was square and because it was easier to manage that way). Something
(e.g. newspaper) underneath the blind will prevent everything from
sticking to your floor.
The first half, I plastered the back of in PVA and tried to lay it down
as flat as I could. It was a disaster! The problem is that the map
absorbs the moisture in the glue and expands (making it very delicate);
it ruptures easily but, more annoyingly, you get big air bubbles and
creases that you cannot get rid of. Moreover, when the glue dries, the
map contracts, taking the fabric with it and causing it to wrinkle.
The second half was more successful, but still not great. That was done
by laying the glue down on the fabric, all at once, then quickly
flattening the map over it... This worked better, in that there are no
crinkles, creases, air-bubbles or rips; but it still suffered the same
contraction problem as the first half (although to a lesser extent).
If I were to do it again, I wouldn't use PVA glue -- it's too wet. The
best alternative I can think of would be spray mount -- however, you
would need a lot of it: easily two cans. This would require a very well
ventilated room and, most probably, face masks to protect you (and your
helpers, which you'll certainly need) from the fumes... Proceed with
caution!
My theoretical technique would require three people: a gluer; a guider;
and a holder. The gluer would be in front, spraying a fine layer
(another advantage of spray mount) of adhesive on to the blind fabric;
in about 10cm strips. The guider would be behind the map, crawling over
it, pressing it down over the latest strip of glue; making sure it was
flat and secure and square. The holder would be in between, simply
holding the map above the others, keeping it taut but feeding it to the
guider at a constant rate... I believe this would allow for the best
results: no bubbles or creases, negligible contraction (as there isn't
much glue) and a generally neater finish.
Another approach would be to cut the map up into manageable pieces and
reassemble them, like a jigsaw, stuck to the blind... I personally
doubt that this method would work; and it would require a lot of fuss.
Alternatively, you could dispense with the fabric altogether, and just
use the map. However, I would imagine that the paper would start to
fray and tear quite quickly; moreover, you would need something to
press against.
Note that the blind fabric is coated in something to make it stiff.
This may be a problem in that the glue you use might not stick to it...
Experiment first!
Another problem is any moisture on your person where you are applying
pressure to glued parts of the map. I was wearing shorts at the time
and kneeling on freshly glued sections -- this led to me having parts
of southern Gloucestershire stuck and mirrored to my knees! Wear
trousers and socks (not shoes); long sleeves, even gloves. Tread
carefully!
Wait for the glue to dry thoroughly and the map to rest (perhaps
another ironing, over tissue perhaps, would be beneficial) then put it
up on your wall somewhere. That should be fairly easy (they'll be
instructions). Make sure there is enough of a gap (between the wall) to
allow the blind to be fully rolled-up with its new extra baggage.
Rolling the blind up and down can be a bit temperamental -- they're not
designed to have a great sheet of paper stuck to them. It's best to do
it slowly (hence the manual string pull, rather than sprung-loaded).
You may also find that, especially if your map is irregular in shape,
the blind will not track properly: In this case, you will have to guide
it manually, as you wind it up.
...:: Colophon ::..
Anyway, that's about it!... In total, mine cost about £75 (using four
OS maps and a custom blind). It's not great -- it doesn't really roll
very well, so it's safer to leave unwound as far as I use -- but it's
not a complete failure. I can certainly use it as I originally
intended; it's just a bit, erm, "bumpy"!
If anyone else has a go at making something similar, or has done so
already, how did you get on?
Good luck 🙂
Christopher Harrison