How to remove FSA SLK Mega-Exo Crank?

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

If there's not a pinch bolt in the end of the crank, your left arm
should be self-extracting when the reaining bolt is unscrewed. If you
have removed the retaining bolt, put it back, and then reinstall the
threaded collar that covers the outer diameter of it, and use the
appropriate size of Allen wrench to unscrew the bolt again. As you do
so, the crank will be pushed off by the retaining bolt. If you
buggered the collar by prying it out, it may be that you're screwed
until you can get a replacement, but it won't hurt to try a regular
crank puller and see it it will thread into the recess.

If there's a pinch bolt in the end of the crank, this must be
unscrewed (I'm not sure if it has to be removed completely) as well as
removing the retaining bolt. The pinch-bolt type of crank is mostly
used on road bikes. With the retaining bolt and pinch bolt removed,
the arm should come right off.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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Werehatrack said:

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

If there's not a pinch bolt in the end of the crank, your left arm
should be self-extracting when the reaining bolt is unscrewed. If you
have removed the retaining bolt, put it back, and then reinstall the
threaded collar that covers the outer diameter of it, and use the
appropriate size of Allen wrench to unscrew the bolt again. As you do
so, the crank will be pushed off by the retaining bolt. If you
buggered the collar by prying it out, it may be that you're screwed
until you can get a replacement, but it won't hurt to try a regular
crank puller and see it it will thread into the recess.

If there's a pinch bolt in the end of the crank, this must be
unscrewed (I'm not sure if it has to be removed completely) as well as
removing the retaining bolt. The pinch-bolt type of crank is mostly
used on road bikes. With the retaining bolt and pinch bolt removed,
the arm should come right off.

Actually, on the pinch-bolt type of arm, there may be two pinch bolts.
Both of them have to be slacked off and/or removed if so.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every time.

Andrew F Martin said:

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every
time.

That's wrong on so many levels. The obvious tool for this crank removal is
the adjustable wrench.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Arkansas micrometer? Yeah, that'll work too.

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Thanks,
Wayne

Speaking from what I heard/read on the internet only. Doesn't FSA use
the ISIS connection on the non-drive crank arm? Assuming the crank
bolt is not self extracting, shouldn't you use a crank arm removal tool
to pull it off just like a normal crank arm.

Werehatrack said:

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

If there's not a pinch bolt in the end of the crank, your left arm
should be self-extracting when the reaining bolt is unscrewed. If you
have removed the retaining bolt, put it back, and then reinstall the
threaded collar that covers the outer diameter of it, and use the
appropriate size of Allen wrench to unscrew the bolt again. As you do
so, the crank will be pushed off by the retaining bolt. If you
buggered the collar by prying it out, it may be that you're screwed
until you can get a replacement, but it won't hurt to try a regular
crank puller and see it it will thread into the recess.

No pinch bolt, so self-extracting as you describe.

Thanks,
Wayne

Andrew F Martin said:

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every time.

Rice and beans went out of my nose.

josh

Andrew F Martin said:

Arkansas micrometer? Yeah, that'll work too.

Naw, he needs a crowbar. Hook the fork under the crank next to the
shaft, brace the crook on the seat tube, and heave up.

[this advice *not* intended for actual use]
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Yea, stop and go to a shop.

-Nate

http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/glorycycles_1882_8267236

Sure looks like self-extracting to me.

Phil said:

Andrew F Martin said:

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every
time.

That's wrong on so many levels. The obvious tool for this crank removal is
the adjustable wrench.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

An adjustable is too specialized. That's why I ride a round with a
Vise-Grip clamped to my seatpost.

Joseph

Quoted message said:

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Thanks,
Wayne

Speaking from what I heard/read on the internet only. Doesn't FSA use
the ISIS connection on the non-drive crank arm? Assuming the crank
bolt is not self extracting, shouldn't you use a crank arm removal tool
to pull it off just like a normal crank arm.

I belive this is true. I have ordered one and it is expected anyday. If
this isn't resolved, I'll post a description of the unmounted pieces.

Joseph

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Thanks,
Wayne

Little stub that goes into the BB spindle then a normal crank puller.

Quoted message said:

Phil said:

Andrew F Martin said:

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every
time.

That's wrong on so many levels. The obvious tool for this crank removal is
the adjustable wrench.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

An adjustable is too specialized. That's why I ride a round with a
Vise-Grip clamped to my seatpost.

Joseph

The obvious answer is, get a bigger hammer. something in the 10lb range
should take that sucker clean off. like butta.

josh

Hi Wayne,
I'm with Full Speed Ahead.

Tip #1 - Contact FSA. We can provide tech support by phone from our
Seattle offices (or from FSA Europe in Milan).

Tip #2 - The dust cover you describe is meant to be left in place. Put
your 8mm allen wrench into the retaining bolt (through the hole in the
dust cover). Loosen. As the retaining bolt unscrews, it will collide
with the dust cover. Further loosening will free the arm from the
spindle. You won't find much torque is required.

Since you've loosened the dust cover, best to eventually make it very
tight. A Park SPA-2 (red pin wrench), for example, works.

Please contact us for any further advice: 1-877-743-3372 (USA).

Cheers,
Ric

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Thanks,
Wayne

Ric said:

Hi Wayne,
I'm with Full Speed Ahead.

Tip #1 - Contact FSA. We can provide tech support by phone from our
Seattle offices (or from FSA Europe in Milan).

Tip #2 - The dust cover you describe is meant to be left in place. Put
your 8mm allen wrench into the retaining bolt (through the hole in the
dust cover). Loosen. As the retaining bolt unscrews, it will collide
with the dust cover. Further loosening will free the arm from the
spindle. You won't find much torque is required.

Since you've loosened the dust cover, best to eventually make it very
tight. A Park SPA-2 (red pin wrench), for example, works.

Please contact us for any further advice: 1-877-743-3372 (USA).

Cheers,
Ric

Thanks Ric. I maintain and have completely disassembled and built 6
bikes, including our tandem, but had never encountered a self-extracting
bolt as all our bikes previously used square taper spindles.

Usually, 2x4s, hammers, bolt cutters, and pipe wrenches are sufficient.
If they fail I use a chain saw or a 4x6.

Wayne

Gentleman, I nominate the crank extraction thread for
Post of the Month. And thank you.

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Phil said:

Andrew F Martin wrote:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Pein said:

I removed the dust cap and retaining bolt on the non-drive arm, but the
two arms don't come apart. From the downloadable pdf instructions it
appears that the two arms are connected with a spline, but I can't get
them to release. I wrapped the left arm in a towel and put a 2x4 over
the inner surface and whacked it with a hammer but nothing. The bike is
brand new, about 150 miles. Any tips?

Thanks,
Wayne

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

No - you're doing it right. 2x4 and a hammer. Should work every
time.

That's wrong on so many levels. The obvious tool for this crank removal is
the adjustable wrench.

An adjustable is too specialized. That's why I ride a round with a
Vise-Grip clamped to my seatpost.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Wayne Pein said:

Ric said:

Hi Wayne,
I'm with Full Speed Ahead.

Tip #1 - Contact FSA. We can provide tech support by phone from our
Seattle offices (or from FSA Europe in Milan).

Tip #2 - The dust cover you describe is meant to be left in place. Put
your 8mm allen wrench into the retaining bolt (through the hole in the
dust cover). Loosen. As the retaining bolt unscrews, it will collide
with the dust cover. Further loosening will free the arm from the
spindle. You won't find much torque is required.

Since you've loosened the dust cover, best to eventually make it very
tight. A Park SPA-2 (red pin wrench), for example, works.

Please contact us for any further advice: 1-877-743-3372 (USA).

Cheers,
Ric

Thanks Ric. I maintain and have completely disassembled and built 6
bikes, including our tandem, but had never encountered a self-extracting
bolt as all our bikes previously used square taper spindles.

Usually, 2x4s, hammers, bolt cutters, and pipe wrenches are sufficient.
If they fail I use a chain saw or a 4x6.

--
Michael Press