How to wax your chain?

Bruce W.1 said:

and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

You will only be able to make dilute paraffin solutions. You may be
able to make more concentrated suspensions. It will be difficult to
get a thick enough coating of wax on the chain.

Perhaps you'd like to experiment using an automotive car wax? I think
that many of the better, creamy liquids might work.

Paul Kopit said:

Bruce W.1 said:

and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

You will only be able to make dilute paraffin solutions. You may be
able to make more concentrated suspensions. It will be difficult to
get a thick enough coating of wax on the chain.

Perhaps you'd like to experiment using an automotive car wax? I think
that many of the better, creamy liquids might work.

The caranubas and polymers dry to a hard finish, I wouldn't think that
it would be a very good lubricant.

Bruce W.1 said:

Yes there are many chain lubricant products, but they all seem wimpy
compared to a hot coat of paraffin. And most are greasy which results
in dirt and grease getting on anything the chain touches.

Once you've worked your lube into the chain's joints, wipe off all the
excess remaining on the surface. That's what attracts dirt and dust, and
it does no good anyway.

--
Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

"Michael Warner" wrote: Once you've worked your lube into the chain's
joints, wipe off all the excess remaining on the surface. That's what
attracts dirt and dust, and it does no good anyway.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I would expect that once the wax cools, it will not be wet, slimy or sticky,
so will not hold dirt. The excess will break up and fly off as you ride the
bike.

The question is: will the wax that is asked to carry load just squeeze out
and fail to lubricate? Oil can be drawn back into the spaces by capillary
attraction. I can't see how wax could do this.

Paul Kopit said:

Bruce W.1 said:

and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

You will only be able to make dilute paraffin solutions. You may be
able to make more concentrated suspensions. It will be difficult to
get a thick enough coating of wax on the chain.

Perhaps you'd like to experiment using an automotive car wax? I think
that many of the better, creamy liquids might work.

Many car wax products contain fine abrasives. That would be an
interesting experiment.

OTOH some work well for polishing scratches out of plastic...

Bruce W.1 said:

So I'm thinking of dissolving solid paraffin in a solvent. Just dip
your chain and let it dry.

Isn't this what White Lightning is made of?

--Blair

Bruce W.1 said:

For years I have put paraffin wax on my chain the old fashioned way,
heat it on a stove and then drop in the chain. This has great results
but there must be an easier way.

Yes there are many chain lubricant products, but they all seem wimpy
compared to a hot coat of paraffin. And most are greasy which results
in dirt and grease getting on anything the chain touches. Boeshield T-9
sounds like a good product but at $1 per ounce it ought to be.

So I'm thinking of dissolving solid paraffin in a solvent. Just dip
your chain and let it dry.

Many things can dissolve paraffin. My question is, which is the least
smelly and least toxic? There's:
+ naptha (lighter fluid)
+ benzene
+ turpentine
+ carbon tet
+ xylene
+ toluol
and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

Thanks for your help.

Another way of doing this is to use one of the motorcycle chain lubes
that contain both petroleum lubricants and wax. I sometimes use Amsoil
Heavy Duty Metal Protector on mine and Maxima makes a product called
Chain Wax that you can often find in motorcyle dealerships. They both
come in a large spray can that lasts a long time when used on a
bicycle. The Amsoil HDMP lists for $6.45 for a 16 oz. can and the Chain
Wax I think is about a dollar higher, but is easier to find. They go on
quick and dry to a waxy finish that doesn't collect as much dirt as
most other lubes and lasts a long time. They last a long time in the
rain, too.

Smokey

Leo Lichtman said:

The question is: will the wax that is asked to carry load just squeeze out
and fail to lubricate? Oil can be drawn back into the spaces by capillary
attraction. I can't see how wax could do this.

I have no idea. I was just pointing out how to avoid having excess lube
pick up [censored].

--
Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

Bruce W.1 <[email hidden]> pewnego razu wyduka³:

Quoted message said:

For years I have put paraffin wax on my chain the old fashioned way,
heat it on a stove and then drop in the chain. This has great results
but there must be an easier way.
Yes there are many chain lubricant products, but they all seem wimpy
compared to a hot coat of paraffin. And most are greasy which results
in dirt and grease getting on anything the chain touches. Boeshield T-9
sounds like a good product but at $1 per ounce it ought to be. [...]

Try Pedros Ice Wax or White Lightning Original (Self cleaning wax lubricant)
How long your lubricating method lasts out.

Boeshield is a GREAT, bordering on amazing product in this regard.
Sure, it's a little pricey at $1/oz or so, but you get 8-10 applications per
bottle if you drip on individual chain pins.

After you apply, simply let it set a few hours and wipe off what's on the
outside. Then, ride 4,5,600mi or more, depending on the conditions (rain
slighly shortens the duty cycle).
When you start to hear squeaks, wipe the chain down well and repeat the
above. This can be done 3-4 times before you need to run it through a
solvent bath to clean it up.

I' ve been using this for about 6-7 years now, having used Whilte
Lightening, FinishLine, etc in the past, nothing compares for ease of use.
My chains on both my summer and rain bikes (I'm in the PNW) usually last 3-4
seasons of 3-4000 mi/ea, before I end up replacing the chain and cogs in
tandem.

Seems like a good setup to me, I like not having to deal with lube issues
for 4-6 weeks at a time...

-pete

"Bruce W.1" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

For years I have put paraffin wax on my chain the old fashioned way, heat
it on a stove and then drop in the chain. This has great results but
there must be an easier way.

Yes there are many chain lubricant products, but they all seem wimpy
compared to a hot coat of paraffin. And most are greasy which results in
dirt and grease getting on anything the chain touches. Boeshield T-9
sounds like a good product but at $1 per ounce it ought to be.
Thanks for your help.

Blair P. Houghton said:

Bruce W.1 said:

So I'm thinking of dissolving solid paraffin in a solvent. Just dip
your chain and let it dry.

Isn't this what White Lightning is made of?

Pretty much. Two inexpensive, commodity products get mixed and sold for
high $$$ per ounce. Amazing.

Quoted message said:

Blair P. Houghton said:

Bruce W.1 said:

So I'm thinking of dissolving solid paraffin in a solvent. Just dip
your chain and let it dry.

Isn't this what White Lightning is made of?

Pretty much. Two inexpensive, commodity products get mixed and sold for
high $$$ per ounce. Amazing.

I have posted this many times. I use a white lightening home brew.
paint thinner and discarded candles. takes three weeks before they are
emulsified. Just shake it once a week to loosen up the candle.
More or less wax as needed I guess. Just pull out the remaining chunks
if need be after 3 weeks if you overload the concoction a. There you
have it for next to nothing. haha I have never tried to figure out
the mileage after a treatment with this but I know it is faster to use
than oil since it is a cleaner and lubricant in one.

Cheers

Bruce W.1 said:

Many things can dissolve paraffin. My question is, which is the least
smelly

Much here depends on your tolerance for a given solvent's fumes.
There are a number of aromatics that send me right up the wall; others
produce little or no physiological effect beyond olfactory annoyance.
It varies from person to person.

Quoted message said:

and least toxic? There's:
+ naptha (lighter fluid)

Fairly safe on toxicity.

Quoted message said:

+ benzene

Carcinogenic, but not at the level of some others. HIGHLY
inflammable.

Quoted message said:

+ turpentine

Causes a skin rash for some individuals.

Quoted message said:

+ carbon tet

Nasty. There's a reason that this stuff isn't used much anymore.

Quoted message said:

+ xylene

Very low flash point, high volatility at room temp; I'd call this a
poor choice for a solution to be stored.

Quoted message said:

+ toluol

Much better choice than xylene.

Quoted message said:

and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

I guess it would depend on what I had available, and what I was trying
to accomplish at the time. The proposed use would not be one that I
would be likely to attempt, so I can't say how I would do this.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

I have posted this many times. I use a white lightening home brew.
paint thinner and discarded candles. takes three weeks before they are
emulsified. Just shake it once a week to loosen up the candle.
More or less wax as needed I guess. Just pull out the remaining chunks
if need be after 3 weeks if you overload the concoction a. There you
have it for next to nothing. haha I have never tried to figure out
the mileage after a treatment with this but I know it is faster to use
than oil since it is a cleaner and lubricant in one.

What does White Lightning cost, per use?

About 25 cents?

The acquisition and labor and packaging and cleanup for the
"home-brew" version can't be that cheap...

--Blair

Michael Warner said:

Leo Lichtman said:

The question is: will the wax that is asked to carry load just squeeze out
and fail to lubricate? Oil can be drawn back into the spaces by capillary
attraction. I can't see how wax could do this.

Wax under pressure is grease.

And, eventually, all lubes will squeeze out of the bearing
and not return.

Which is why you have to reapply them periodically.

Quoted message said:

I have no idea. I was just pointing out how to avoid having excess lube
pick up [censored].

According to the White Lightning website, if the wax picks
up a bit of [censored], it activates some release agent, which
causes the bit of wax with the [censored] in it to flake off.

--Blair
"Better living through ad copy."

Smokey said:

Bruce W.1 said:

So I'm thinking of dissolving solid paraffin in a solvent. Just dip
your chain and let it dry.

Many things can dissolve paraffin. My question is, which is the least
smelly and least toxic? There's:
+ naptha (lighter fluid)
+ benzene
+ turpentine
+ carbon tet
+ xylene
+ toluol
and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

According to the MSDS for White Lightning, it's Hexane,
which makes up 65+-15% of the bottle. Pretty big range
there. 50-80%. Some quality control they got. Maybe
they're accounting for evaporation in the bottle.

WL is not too smelly.

If you buy White Lightning Epic, you get 70-75% Heptane,
and some Hexane and Pentane.

Quoted message said:

Another way of doing this is to use one of the motorcycle chain lubes
that contain both petroleum lubricants and wax.

For a long time I used 80W/90 hypoid gear oil. Goes on like
maple syrup, lubes great. Picks up all the black dust on
the route so it doesn't get in your way on the next lap...

--Blair

Paul Kopit said:

Bruce W.1 said:

and many others. What would you use for a paraffin solvent?

You will only be able to make dilute paraffin solutions. You may be
able to make more concentrated suspensions. It will be difficult to
get a thick enough coating of wax on the chain.

Perhaps you'd like to experiment using an automotive car wax? I think
that many of the better, creamy liquids might work.

Many of those have a suspended polishing (abrasive) compound included.
Since the labels don't reveal that characteristic (at least, not in
the US), it could be a real crapshoot.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Blair P. Houghton said:

Quoted message said:

I have posted this many times. I use a white lightening home brew.
paint thinner and discarded candles. takes three weeks before they are
emulsified. Just shake it once a week to loosen up the candle.
More or less wax as needed I guess. Just pull out the remaining chunks
if need be after 3 weeks if you overload the concoction a. There you
have it for next to nothing. haha I have never tried to figure out
the mileage after a treatment with this but I know it is faster to use
than oil since it is a cleaner and lubricant in one.

What does White Lightning cost, per use?

About 25 cents?

And it should be 1/25 that.

Quoted message said:

The acquisition and labor and packaging and cleanup for the
"home-brew" version can't be that cheap...

Canning wax and mineral spirits; check the cost. You can have a
lifetime supply of 'white lightning' for under $10.

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Blair P. Houghton said:

Michael Warner said:

Leo Lichtman said:

The question is: will the wax that is asked to carry load just squeeze out
and fail to lubricate? Oil can be drawn back into the spaces by capillary
attraction. I can't see how wax could do this.

Wax under pressure is grease.

False.

Quoted message said:

And, eventually, all lubes will squeeze out of the bearing
and not return.

False.

--
Michael Press