rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Hub damage from cheap crank extractor

Started by semach.the.monkey · · Last activity · 9 posts · 258 views

← Back to rec.sport.unicycling

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

01 / Original postHub damage from cheap crank extractorsemach.the.monkey · 11 Aug 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–9Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #9Mikefule · 12 Aug 2006

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
11 August 2006
Last activity
12 August 2006
Original author
semach.the.monkey
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
258
Views / 30 days
8
Topics
Taper and peaking

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–9 of 9
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Original post
    semach.the.monkey
    Archived post
    #1

    Ok, I guess this is all my own fault for being a tight [censored]. However,
    after borrowing a crank extractor a few times (Thanks Roland), I
    thought it was about time I bought my own one. I looked about on the
    net, and found I could get one from eBay for half the price of the UDC
    one. Bargain! Or so I thought...

    However, I got around to using it today, and found that the kind of
    metal it is made from is only slightly firmer than chocolate on a warm
    day. If it had been exactly the same consistancy as chocolate, then I
    would have just ended up with some goo in my cranks. Unfortunatly, it
    was just tough enough to try to work it's way in to the hole in the end
    of the hub, and damage the thread.

    So, I wasn't able to get the crank off, and, more worringly, I can't
    get the bolt back in. All for a three quid saving!

    Has anyone else had this happen to them? How would you suggest I try
    to repair the hub? Would running a Tap or Dye (can never remember
    which is which) in to the hub re-cut the thread to what it was, or is
    this likely to do more damage? If the hole is totally buggered, and I
    don't want to buy a new hub, would I be best off getting the crank
    welded on and accept the fact that I won't be able to change it again?

    Cheers

    STM

    --
    semach.the.monkey
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    semach.the.monkey's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12078
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report
  2. john_childs
    Archived post
    #2

    Which hub? Is it a standard square tapered UDC hub?

    --
    john_childs

    john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
    Team Dirty Muni
    Gallery: http://gallery.unicyclist.com/john_childs
    'Unicycling Bookmark List' (http://backcountry.unicyclist.com/) ::
    'World Clock' (http://tinyurl.com/a99y3)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report
  3. Mikefule
    Archived post
    #3

    I'm only asking because I've made this mistake more than once
    myself...:o

    Were you perchance trying to screw the big fat bit into the thread in
    the crank while the thin bit in the middle was still screwed in, rather
    than out? When you do this, the thin bit in the middle pushes against
    the end of the axle, so try as you might you can't screw the big fat
    bit in.

    Undo the thin bit in the middle all the way, then screw in the fat bit,
    then tighten up the thin bit in the middle.

    For once, I am lost for more precise terminology.:o

    --
    Mikefule

    "The world is Hell, and men are on the one hand the tormented souls, and
    on the other the devils in it."
    Arthur "Cheery" Schopenhauer
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mikefule's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/879
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report
  4. Semach.the.monkey
    Archived post
    #4

    "john_childs" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:


    Which hub? Is it a standard square tapered UDC hub?

    Yup, a normal (well, wide) UDC square tapered hub.

    STM

    Report
  5. Semach.the.monkey
    Archived post
    #5

    "Mikefule" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    Were you perchance trying to screw the big fat bit into the thread in
    the crank while the thin bit in the middle was still screwed in,


    rather

    Quoted message said:

    than out?

    No, the thin inner bit was certainly right the way out, and the fat
    outer bit was able to go in 5 or 6 threads, so engaged fully.

    Looking again at the tool, and thinking back to the other one that I've
    used, I've noticed that the thin inner bit is made from a single piece
    of (softish) metal, rather than a two piece affair where the tip is
    free-floating from the screwey bit. I think that is the fundamental
    problem with the cheapo tool.

    Quoted message said:

    Undo the thin bit in the middle all the way, then screw in the fat


    bit,

    Quoted message said:

    then tighten up the thin bit in the middle.

    For once, I am lost for more precise terminology.:o

    I know what you mean. It's like your wassisname hasn't got enough
    thingy words :-)

    Anyway, I'll have a go tomorrow to see if I can sort things out, either
    with a thin pokey bit, or, if that fails, a tap.

    STM

    Report
  6. forget_your_life
    Archived post
    #6

    did you leave the bolt washer in there...if so the crank extracter
    threads wont go in as far.

    --
    forget_your_life

    dream one dream many....
    *'R.I.P' (http://tinyurl.com/vr86)*
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    forget_your_life's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4558
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report
  7. Mikefule
    Archived post
    #7

    Well, that only goes to prove two points:

    1) Never buy cheap tools.

    2) If a job's worth doing, it's worth getting a little man in to do it
    for you.

    --
    Mikefule

    "The world is Hell, and men are on the one hand the tormented souls, and
    on the other the devils in it."
    Arthur "Cheery" Schopenhauer
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mikefule's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/879
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report
  8. Semach.the.monkey
    Archived post
    #8

    "Mikefule" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:


    Well, that only goes to prove two points:

    1) Never buy cheap tools.

    I realise that by the very nature of this thread being here that I am
    probably not in a position to argue, however, I normally would do. My
    motto for tools, and many other things, is to buy a cheap set to start
    with, and then by seeing what wears out first, you know what to invest
    decent money in. I guess I should add in a proviso that the tool should
    be up to the job for at least one use!

    Quoted message said:

    2) If a job's worth doing, it's worth getting a little man in to do


    it

    Quoted message said:

    for you.

    Yeah, but have you seen the way Andy Parry changes cranks?!? :-)

    STM

    Report
  9. Mikefule
    Archived post
    #9

    Cheap spanners damage nuts and bolts because they don't fit quite right,
    and the jaws spread under the force of tightening/untightening, so that
    they slip and take the edges of the flats.

    Cheap screw drivers don't quite fit the slot, so they tend to chew the
    screw head.

    Cheap saw blades flex too much and twist, causing uneven and angulated
    cuts.

    Cheap drill bits are not always perfectly straight, and the go blunt
    easily, meaning that they tend to skate over the surface of the piece
    of work.

    And now, as we have demonstrated, cheap crank extractors damage the
    cranks.

    Cheap tools are a false economy. Buy cheap, buy twice.
    <Wags stern finger.>

    --
    Mikefule

    "The world is Hell, and men are on the one hand the tormented souls, and
    on the other the devils in it."
    Arthur "Cheery" Schopenhauer
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mikefule's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/879
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/51997

    Report

Related discussions

Closely matching published threads from rec.sport.unicycling.

01Hub damage from cheap crank extractor 9 replies · 341 views02cheap splined hub and cranks 10 replies · 505 views03Re: Crank Arm Extractors? 1 reply · 380 views04Crank Arm Extractors? 0 replies · 388 views05DX Cranks and Koxx Street Cranks 0 replies · 364 views06Re: ISIS hubs and cranks 3 replies · 413 views

Keep exploring

Browse the sectionrec.sport.unicycling Return to CyclingForumsStart at the home page Search discussionsFind another thread

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.