hub dynamo

In article said:

Hi,

I'm thinking of getting a hub dynamo; which is better - the shimano or the Schmidt (half as
much again).

Also - I'm a 15 stone rider doing mostly commuting and a little touring
- any suggestions on which would be the best rims (looking at St John Street cycles in
particular...).

TIA

Jon

I know this doesn't fully answer the question, but FWIW I'm 18 stone (ish) and have not yet managed
to break a Sun Rhyno, with a Shimano hub dynamo at it's centre. From St John St by co-incidence.

--
Also Jon (jondotrogersatntlworlddotcom)

Jon Martin said:

I'm thinking of getting a hub dynamo; which is better - the shimano or the Schmidt (half as
much again).

The Schmidt is the better by a country mile, but the Shimano is better value. Commuting round town I
would have a Nexus. Extensive riding on unlit roads I would have a Schmidt.

I currently have one of each, a Nexus on the tourer and a SON on the 'bent. I use both bikes for
commuting along unlit country roads. The Nexus is good, the SON excellent. If I were rebuilding the
tourer I would probably have another Nexus, because I mostly commute on the 'bent now and only ride
the tourer round town or on club rides where there are plenty of other lit riders (and if it's
likely to be real dark I take a headtorch anyway, as I do when I commute).

Also, whichever dynamo you get, the SON E6 headlight is particularly good, much better than the
Busch & Muller Lumotec (although without the standlight, so go for the B&M if ou are mainly riding
round town).

Guy
===
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you know? said:

Also, whichever dynamo you get, the SON E6 headlight is particularly good, much better than the
Busch & Muller Lumotec (although without the standlight, so go for the B&M if ou are mainly riding
round town).

I've tried the B&M Lumotec round and oval. Currently I've got an oval with standlicht and 3w lamp. I
find it gives a nice bright beam but quite narrow. It's mounted on a headset bracket. What
improvements does the SON E6 offer? I'm thinking about getting a hub dynamo too, so it would be
silly not to upgrade the light at the same time.

Tim
--

fast and gripping, non pompous, glossy and credible.

Jon Martin said:

I'm thinking of getting a hub dynamo; which is better - the shimano or the Schmidt (half as
much again).

Schmidt. No two ways about it, it's a lovely bit of kit. If you can afford it, you won't regret a
penny of it.

On the other hand, the Shimano is perfectly functional - it's just not as nice as the SON.

John

(SabineUK) said:

Jon Martin said:

I'm thinking of getting a hub dynamo; which is better - the shimano or the Schmidt (half as much
again).

Schmidt. No two ways about it, it's a lovely bit of kit. If you can afford it, you won't regret a
penny of it.

On the other hand, the Shimano is perfectly functional - it's just not as nice as the SON.

I have a Schmidt and have been pleased with it. It's lighter than the Shimano I think. When
you're not using it the resistance reduces; with the Shimano you have the same resistance whether
you're using you lights or not AIUI. Also the additioanl resistance when in use is less that for
the Shimano.

Oh, what I'd give to be a 15 stone rider again!!!

I've never tried a hub dynamo - I don't ride in the dark - despite suggestions that I should to
protect the sensibilities of others! - so I just use a bottom-bracket Sanyo dynamo.

On rims, though, any well built wheel should be fine. I've used Mavic Argent for four years, and
have no problems. I use Michelin WorldTour tyres, inflated to 6bar - I got a track pump a few weeks
ago, and it really showed how underinflated my tyres were (about 2bar!). I was getting pinch-hits
all the time, and haven't had a single one since I pumped up the tyres!

Regards,

Pete.

---------------------------
Peter Connolly Acute Computing Derby UK

"Jon Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I'm thinking of getting a hub dynamo; which is better - the shimano or the Schmidt (half as
much again).

Also - I'm a 15 stone rider doing mostly commuting and a little touring
- any suggestions on which would be the best rims (looking at St John Street cycles in
particular...).

TIA

Jon
--
Why does everything nice I buy at the moment keep @##*%ing breaking? [email hidden] NOT!!
nospam=defblade

Tim Hall said:

What improvements does the SON E6 offer? I'm thinking about getting a hub dynamo too, so it would
be silly not to upgrade the light at the same time.

The SON has a much more focused beam, based on the BISY optics, so the light is all in the places
you want it. There's a page somewhere which shows comparisons, but I can't find the bookmark, so
I'll have to Google for it.

If you buy a SON, keep the B&M and get the E6 as well - connect in series as per the instructions
and you get the best of both worlds. It's what I have on the 'bent.

Guy
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Paul Rudin said:

with the Shimano you have the same resistance whether you're using you lights or not AIUI.

Not so. The Nexus is nearly as good as the SON, and produces full output (IME) at slightly slower
speeds - although that could be the bike, as the SON is on a 20" wheel and the Nexus on a 700c. The
mass is comparable, but the SON does have slightly less drag (neither is bad) and the SON also
allows for 12V systems, which are very good. The Nexus comes with a very handy light-activated
switch, though, so is absolutely perfect for a round-town commuter bike.

Guy
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In "]news:[email hidden], Just zis Guy, you know?
<[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

Paul Rudin said:

with the Shimano you have the same resistance whether you're using you lights or not AIUI.

Not so. The Nexus is nearly as good as the SON, and produces full output (IME) at slightly slower
speeds - although that could be the bike, as the SON is on a 20" wheel and the Nexus on a 700c.
The mass is comparable, but the SON does have slightly less drag (neither is bad) and the SON also
allows for 12V systems, which are very good. The Nexus comes with a very handy light-activated
switch, though, so is absolutely perfect for a round-town commuter bike.

You are both part right. At slow speeds the Shimano has less drag with the lights off, at higher
speed it has less drag with the lights on but you'd be hard pushed to notice the difference. The
Shimano is marginally higher output at low speed but lower at high speed. The test data taken by
Chris Juden is reproduced on Myra's website at myra-simon.comdynotest.htmlOpen ↗

Tony

--
raven-family.comraven-family.comOpen ↗

"All truth goes through three steps: First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed.
Finally, it is accepted as self-evident." Arthur Schopenhauer

Tony Raven said:

The test data taken by Chris Juden is reproduced on Myra's website

Isn't that the old Inter-L? The newer Nexus was improved in several respects, not least reduced drag
when not powering - or so I was told.

Either way, as a user of both I can recommend either without hesitation.

Guy
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Just zis Guy said:

Tim Hall said:

What improvements does the SON E6 offer? I'm thinking about getting a hub dynamo too, so it
would be silly not to upgrade the light at the same time.

The SON has a much more focused beam, based on the BISY optics, so the light is all in the places
you want it. There's a page somewhere which shows comparisons, but I can't find the bookmark, so
I'll have to Google for it.

If you buy a SON, keep the B&M and get the E6 as well - connect in series as per the instructions
and you get the best of both worlds. It's what I have on the 'bent.

for 12v use you'll need the appropriate light. Either the Son Lumotec-Z or the E6-Z.

Light comparison at fa-technik.adfc.deScheinwerferOpen ↗
--
Marten

NEW WEBADRESS: www.M-Gineering.nl

[email hidden] schreef ...

Quoted message said:

Paul Rudin said:

with the Shimano you have the same resistance whether you're using you lights or not AIUI.

Not so. The Nexus is nearly as good as the SON, and produces full output (IME) at slightly slower
speeds - although that could be the bike, as the SON is on a 20" wheel and the Nexus on a 700c.

Is it a proper SON 20"?

--
Regards, Marten

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> "JzGyk" == Just zis Guy, you know? <Just> writes:

JzGyk On 27 Apr 2003 08:14:14 +0100 said:

Quoted message said:

with the Shimano you have the same resistance whether you're using you lights or not AIUI.

JzGyk> Not so. The Nexus is nearly as good as the SON, and produces full output (IME) at slightly
JzGyk> slower speeds -

I'm not sure if we're at cross-purposs or not: I remember reading up on it when I bought mine and
recall that that there's always some drag from the dynamo with the Shimano, whereas the Schmidt has
some mechanism for moving the magnets so that when you don't need the lights this isn't so.

JzGyk> The Nexus comes with a very handy light-activated switch, though, so is absolutely perfect
JzGyk> for a round-town commuter bike.

The switch doesn't need to be part of the dynamo presuambly? You can get lights with such switches
that work with the schmidt as well. I didn't buy one myself since my front light is mounted where I
can easily reach the switch; and I was worried that the sensor might have different ideas from me
about the level of light at which switching on is appropriate :-)

--
Do you need any MOUTH-TO-MOUTH resuscitation?

Hello, I have a Thorn Nomad fitted with a Union (Scmidt) and it is just great. I do not even notice
it and sometimes ride daytime with it on unknowingly. Regards, John.

--
John, Pauline & Hannah. Thornbury, South Gloucestershire. UK. pbase.comjohn28julyOpen ↗

Paul Rudin said:

The switch doesn't need to be part of the dynamo presuambly? You can get lights with such switches
that work with the schmidt as well. I didn't buy one myself since my front light is mounted where
I can easily reach the switch; and I was worried that the sensor might have different ideas from
me about the level of light at which switching on is appropriate :-)

The Nexus switch has some current limiting circuitry, mounts on the fork crown and has three
positions: off, auto (the sensor) and on. I generally don't use the sensor position as it's easy
enough to reach down and flick the power on when I need to.

Regards,

-david

Just zis Guy said:

Also, whichever dynamo you get, the SON E6 headlight is particularly good, much better than the
Busch & Muller Lumotec (although without the standlight, so go for the B&M if ou are mainly riding
round town).

The SON E6 is the same light as the Bisy FL-SR, but with an alloy body and switch. OTOH it is 3
times the price. I got a cheap switch elsewhere and took the plastic Bisy.

I wouldn't worry about a standlight, because I always ride with at least one backup battery light
anyway. Dynamos are highly reliable, but nothing is perfect.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

M-Gineering import & framebouw said:

Just zis Guy said:

If you buy a SON, keep the B&M and get the E6 as well - connect in series as per the instructions
and you get the best of both worlds. It's what I have on the 'bent.

for 12v use you'll need the appropriate light. Either the Son Lumotec-Z or the E6-Z.

Guy is advocating connecting them in series, where standard 6V lights are needed.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

Paul Rudin said:

JzGyk> Not so. The Nexus is nearly as good as the SON, and produces full output (IME) at slightly
JzGyk> slower speeds -

I'm not sure if we're at cross-purposs or not: I remember reading up on it when I bought mine and
recall that that there's always some drag from the dynamo with the Shimano, whereas the Schmidt
has some mechanism for moving the magnets so that when you don't need the lights this isn't so.

No mechanism, just a different level of engineering
--
Marten

Paul Rudin said:

easily reach the switch; and I was worried that the sensor might have different ideas from me
about the level of light at which switching on is appropriate :-)

I have the Lumotec Sensor, and on my 'bent the sensor is underneath the chain guard on the crank
boom so it's quite well shielded. And does indeed have a different idea of when it's dark to me,
being in shadow most of the time anyway, but (a) it's erring on the safe side, (b) I can't really
tell it's on as far as the effort of pedalling is concerned and (c) there's a manual override on the
switch anyway. So not a problem.

I only got the sensor system as it came on the bike when I bought it. At first it struck me as quite
ridiculously gimmicky, but having been using it for a couple of years I now rather like having to
never bother thinking about it.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden]
dundee.ac.uk~pjclinchOpen ↗