I need help!!!

Bass-<< I have a mountain bike that i have had for a few years. And i was trying to adjust the gears
on it. I got the gears to change on the rear sprokets but they are still a little sluggish and the
front gears i cant change at all. I checked the cable on it but it doesn't seem to be broken. Are
there any other adjustments i'm missing? Thanks>><BR><BR>

Change the inner wires and housing thru out. Cheap, easy way to improve overall shifting
performance. If can't figure it out-go to a bike shop, it's what they
do...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Go get some!!!

Andres

Sorry, I couldn't resist

Thats what i came here for...To get some help. Aparently you can't help
me. smart ass

"Bass_Cat" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Thats what i came here for...To get some help. Aparently you can't help
me. smart ass

Which is apparently a follow up to the secretive, mysterious Mr Cat's OP:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I got the gears to change on the rear sprokets but they are still a little sluggish and the
front gears i

cant

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

change at all. I checked the cable on it but it doesn't seem to be broken.

After rereading your OPost, I have nothing positive to offer. You haven't seen the usual helpful
advice from a generally helpful group. Your symptoms are so nebulous as to be reasonably acribed to
anything and everything, especially when you assert the control cables are functional.

To get a derailleur gear system running properly, my advice is: Ensure the chain is not worn out and
that it is neither dry and rusting nor caked with a grunge of oil and dirt. Ensure rear hub and
crank bearings are not loose. Ensure the chainrings are not bent and that there is no foreign
material occluding the teeth, front and rear. Ensure the rear changer is aligned straight to the
bicycle in both planes and that the rollers ( or body for that matter) are not sloppy with wear.
Sight the chainline so you know it's not grossly askew.

If that all looks acceptable, shift the rear changer with your thumb before connecting the control
wire. Make darned sure you cannot push that cage past low gear into the spokes. When you push to the
second highest gear and let go, the changer should drop smartly to high.

If that all looks good, ensure the control wire is not kinked or frayed. Ensure the casing is not
damaged and sits squarely in its seats with the proper ferrules. Smear a light lubricant on the wire
where it runs inside casing or over nylon guides. Lubricate the anchor bolt and adjuster threads.
Now you can connect the wire and shift one click. The chain should be on the second cog. Beware a
loose wire such that the first click does nothing and the second click makes the first shift, That's
a common error.

For fronts, get the cage straight to the chainrings and 2mm above them at the closest point in its
travel. Shift the rear to low and set the front limit such that the chain just clears the inside of
the cage. Now shift the rear to high and make sure the high limit will let the cage clear the chain
at the outermost point. Lubricate the anchor bolt and connect the wire. Ensure the derailleur can
span the entire range and that the chain will not travel past high or low when the shift is
aggressive.

Could you be a bit more specific?
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"Bass_Cat" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Finally someone who does care about the posters in NG's!

Ok let me see if i can be as specific as i can. As i said in my last post I did get the gears to
change on the rear sprokets but it shifts a little sluggish. But What i should have said is they
sometimes do seem to have a delay while shifting. Now the front grears will not change at all.
But now that you have explained to me What the adjustments should be on the front derailer I
will look into that. Ok now heres another thing i haven't been able to figure out. When changed
into a lower gear on the rear i hear the chain barely rubbing on the cage in the front. But when
i try to shift the front gears the rubbing stops but it doesn't shift. Thank you for the indepth
explanations in your last post to me!

I stil do not know what kind of gear system we are talking about. A normal (classic, G/S, Ergo)
front shifter should be trimmed after a few rear shifts as the chain angle changes. With an index
front shifter, the cage is usually much wider than would otherwise be necessary. Even those
systems (Ultegra, etc) have recently begun incorporating a trim feature because it's nearly
impossible to adjust without it. So, do you have an index front shifter? If so, position of the
cage (in three dimensions) and maybe even the shape of the cage ( yes, bend it) becomes critical.
Chain rubbing front cage in some gear combinations, while avoidable and not "normal", is quite
common to those systems.

Front changer will not change at all? Did you clamp an accessory over the gear wire?

If your rear shifting is sluggish, go back through the checklist posted earlier. One or more of
those items is not optimal ( derailleur tab alignment? chain wear?)
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971