Got a pair of V8's for my Hardrock Sport. I havn't any other pedals to compare but the thread on the pedals seems to be a little too large and makes screwing them in rather difficult (the wear out the thread on the cranks when forcibly trying to screw them in). The left pedal has gone in with a lot of brute strength but the right one doesn't go into the crank as much as the other, and also is is slightly inclined from the horizontal when you look at it from the back of the bike (around 10-15 degrees). How do I correct this, should i tap it with a wooden mallet as it's going in to fix the bent pedal?
I'm pretty sure I have put them the right way around (right pedal tightens clockwise, left pedal tightens anticlockwise. The cranks are Truvativ Isoflow.
"Burning_Ranger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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Got a pair of V8's for my Hardrock Sport. I havn't any other pedals to compare but the thread on the pedals seems to be a little too large and makes screwing them in rather difficult (the wear out the thread on the cranks when forcibly trying to screw them in). The left pedal has gone in with a lot of brute strength but the right one doesn't go into the crank
as
Quoted message said:
much as the other, and also is is slightly inclined from the horizontal
when
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you look at it from the back of the bike (around 10-15 degrees). How do I correct this, should i tap it with a wooden mallet as it's going in to fix the bent pedal?
I'm pretty sure I have put them the right way around (right pedal tightens clockwise, left pedal tightens anticlockwise. The cranks are Truvativ Isoflow.
--
Burning_Ranger
To email: [email hidden]
Sounds like new cranks and new pedals required. Brute force rarely gives good results when fitting - only sometimes when removing.
I havn't any other pedals to compare but the thread on the pedals seems to be a little too large and makes screwing them in rather difficult
Almost all adult bikes have 9/16in threads on the pedals. LH thread on LH pedal an RH thread on RH pedal.
Quoted message said:
The left pedal has gone in with a lot of brute strength but the right one doesn't go into the crank as much as the other, and also is is slightly inclined from the horizontal when you look at it from the back of the bike (around 10-15 degrees). How do I correct this, should i tap it with a wooden mallet as it's going in to fix the bent pedal?
Please, please, please don't force them in. You should be able to thread them in with your fingers all of the way until the final tightening. Also the treads need to be well greased to prevent them from seizing up.
If you have had to force them, the threads are damged or it is cross-threaded. Your local bike shop can re-thread the cranks; the pedals may also be salvaged if the damage is not too great.
Got a pair of V8's for my Hardrock Sport. I havn't any other pedals to compare but the thread on the pedals seems to be a little too large and makes screwing them in rather difficult (the wear out the thread on the cranks when forcibly trying to screw them in). The left pedal has gone in with a lot of brute strength but the right one doesn't go into the crank as much as the other, and also is is slightly inclined from the horizontal when you look at it from the back of the bike (around 10-15 degrees). How do I correct this, should i tap it with a wooden mallet as it's going in to fix the bent pedal?
Quoted message said:
I'm pretty sure I have put them the right way around (right pedal tightens clockwise, left pedal tightens anticlockwise. The cranks are Truvativ Isoflow.
I've had absolutely no problems with my V8s and my Truvativ Stylo crankset.
Specialised's page suggests the Hardrock Sport comes with pedals- were they easy to remove and do they screw in and out without problems?
They should screw in easily with your fingers before finally tightening with a torque wrench/ spanner.
If you're having to apply massive amounts of force there's something wrong. The funny angle sounds very unhappy. It may be you've killed either/ both of your cranks/ pedals.
You should easily be able to tell if you have the pedals the right way round- all the V8s I've seen have L and R marked on the pedals to show which side they should go. -- Tim.
Sounds like new cranks and new pedals required. Brute force rarely gives good results when fitting - only sometimes when removing.
Talking about brute force, I bought a bottom bracket tool and a cassette tool from Mike Dyason. They have holes to accept a 1/2inch socket drive. I guess the best tool to use with these is a 'sliding T-bar'. I balked at Halford's price of 10 pounds for a 1/2inch breaker bar, or 18 for a (rather nice) ratchet handle.
So (a) is the T-bar the best tool to use here? (b) anyone got ideas where to get one in SE London? Tried a local auto parts store, and B+Q.
How about one of those extending wheel braces? Anyone use one of them?
Sounds like new cranks and new pedals required. Brute force rarely gives good results when fitting - only sometimes when removing.
Talking about brute force, I bought a bottom bracket tool and a cassette tool from Mike Dyason. They have holes to accept a 1/2inch socket drive. I guess the best tool to use with these is a 'sliding T-bar'. I balked at Halford's price of 10 pounds for a 1/2inch breaker bar, or 18 for a (rather nice) ratchet handle.
So (a) is the T-bar the best tool to use here? (b) anyone got ideas where to get one in SE London? Tried a local auto parts store, and B+Q.
How about one of those extending wheel braces? Anyone use one of them?
Order one from screwfix. Those telescopic wheel braces can be had for 2 or 3 quid, but you really didn't ought to be tightening a BB up with something that long IMO.
I havn't any other pedals to compare but the thread on the pedals seems to be a little too large and makes screwing them in rather difficult
Almost all adult bikes have 9/16in threads on the pedals. LH thread on LH pedal an RH thread on RH pedal.
Quoted message said:
The left pedal has gone in with a lot of brute strength but the right one doesn't go into the crank as much as the other, and also is is slightly inclined from the horizontal when you look at it from the back of the bike (around 10-15 degrees). How do I correct this, should i tap it with a wooden mallet as it's going in to fix the bent pedal?
Please, please, please don't force them in. You should be able to thread them in with your fingers all of the way until the final tightening. Also the treads need to be well greased to prevent them from seizing up.
If you have had to force them, the threads are damged or it is cross-threaded. Your local bike shop can re-thread the cranks; the pedals may also be salvaged if the damage is not too great.
Ian
I've learnt the hard way not to mess with pedals and cranks. The thread on the left crank had worn out but thankfully both pedals were undamaged and the LBS managed to re-thread the cranks. So I am very very happy now. 🙂)
I think my big mistake was trying to screw them in the wrong way first time (even though I only used my fingers and didn't tighten it), that damaged the beginning of the crank thread slightly and from there it was all downhill.
BTW, what kind of grease does the syringe use? Or can I use normal bike grease available in the shops? (my toddler nephew got hold of it and ejected the whole thing onto the carpet)
"Burning_Ranger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Got a pair of V8's for my Hardrock Sport.
Are those the pedals that come with a little allen key thing that you are supposed to use to undo a screw and lubricate the pedals from time to time? You've just reminded me that the allen key that came with mine burred on the first attempt and is now useless, and I haven't got round to lubricating the pedals for -ahem- some time now. I wonder how long they'll last without relubing?
BTW, what kind of grease does the syringe use? Or can I use normal bike grease available in the shops? (my toddler nephew got hold of it and ejected the whole thing onto the carpet)
No idea but it looks far too much like red flavour jam. Bog standard car bearing grease does the job and is a lot more economical to use. -- Tim.
BTW, what kind of grease does the syringe use? Or can I use normal bike grease available in the shops? (my toddler nephew got hold of it and ejected the whole thing onto the carpet)
Probably copper grease, which helps prevent aluminium/steel joints from seizing. You can get it in incredibly expensive little syringes from bike shops, or in fairly cheap large tubs from engineering suppliers. A kilogramme of the stuff will probably cost less than fifty grammes! Good stuff. Get some.
