Installing new chain

waxbytes said:

I was putting on a new HG73 chain when the directions fell out of the
box engrish side up. I made the mistake of reading them. According to
Shimano, the chain is stronger if the new connection is made on the
forward (in direction of travel) end of a link. They don't say why.
Anyone know why?

I thought this was only an issue with Shimano 10-speed chains because
of their very thin sideplates. But I honestly can't visualize how it
makes a difference. I know it's been discussed here before.

Art Harris

"Forward end of the link"??? Shimano has created directionally biased
chains now?

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Chris Z The Wheelman said:

"Forward end of the link"??? Shimano has created directionally biased
chains now?

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My web Site:
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That's "forward" as in the direction the chain travels when pedaling, nothing to do with chain design.

waxbytes said:

I was putting on a new HG73 chain when the directions fell out of the
box engrish side up. I made the mistake of reading them. According to
Shimano, the chain is stronger if the new connection is made on the
forward (in direction of travel) end of a link. They don't say why.
Anyone know why?

This was AFAIK mentioned only for 10 speeds chains. The reason was to ensure
a smoother engagement of the chain.

I would buy a QuickLink and forget about all this (and many other problems).

Ciao,
--
Roberto Divia` Love at first sight is one of the greatest
Dep:PH Bat:53 Mailbox:C02110 labour-saving devices the world has ever seen
Route de Meyrin 385 ---------------------------------------------
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Switzerland E-Mail: [email hidden]

Roberto Divia said:

waxbytes said:

I was putting on a new HG73 chain when the directions fell out of the
box engrish side up. I made the mistake of reading them. According to
Shimano, the chain is stronger if the new connection is made on the
forward (in direction of travel) end of a link. They don't say why.
Anyone know why?

This was AFAIK mentioned only for 10 speeds chains. The reason was to ensure
a smoother engagement of the chain.

I though so too. But follow the link below to see a pdf of the HG73
Manual.

http://tinyurl.com/ffm2v

Also, I seem to recall that there is preferred side to insert the
special pin (inside to out, rather than outside to in).

Sheldon? Peter?

Art Harris

waxbytes said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I was putting on a new HG73 chain when the directions fell out of the
box engrish side up. I made the mistake of reading them. According to
Shimano, the chain is stronger if the new connection is made on the
forward (in direction of travel) end of a link. They don't say why.
Anyone know why?

That way if the outer plates are splayed out they would not be so likely
to snag on something.

Art Harris said:

I seem to recall that there is preferred side to insert the
special pin (inside to out, rather than outside to in).

Sheldon? Peter?

I don't use those (I'm a Sram Powerlink guy) but I'm pretty sure it
doesnt matter. Most folks install the pin from the right side, just
because it's more accessible that way.

Sheldon "Likes Lots Of Shimano Stuff, But Doesn't Use Their Chains" Brown
+---------------------------------------------------+
| As far as I know, none of my immigrant ancestors |
| arrived with a passport, visa or work permit. |
+---------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoted message said:

(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as I
found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

Chris

Chris Nelson said:

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoted message said:

(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as
I found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

For my road bikes Shimano chains (DA) work better for me than SRAM -- much
quieter, mainly -- but I use the SRAM Powerlink to join 'em. (All 9-spd.
stuff; no experience w/ 10-spd.)

It's SRAM all the way on the mtbs, however. Shimano chains broke too often
(might have just been a rotten apple, but impression tends to linger)...

Sorno

Hmm... well the right way to connect a chain sure is thought provoking, especially when honkin' up a steep grade out of saddle. Oh well, I followed the directions, hopefully I comprehended them correctly.

On 25 Jul 2006 10:40:22 -0700, "Chris Nelson" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoted message said:

(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as I
found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

Chris

I've never had a problem disassembling a 9-speed PowerLink. But I keep
my chain, reasonably clean.
if you study the link, so you understand how it works, I think that
helps.
As long as the Connex works for you, don't worry about it.

Life is Good!
Jeff

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Chris Nelson said:

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoted message said:

(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as I
found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

Connex works for you; stay with it.

Since you are asking, the SRAM link is easy to disassemble
when the method is known, and you practice a little.

The link must be clean. This means thoroughly flush all
the grit out of the area where the PL outer plates meet
the inner plates of the chain.

One way to learn is to install a PL on a clean chain off
the bike on your bench. Put it on, take it off, put it on,
take it off... Bend the chain into a U shape at the link.
Put the forefinger and thumb of the left hand on opposite
sides of the link, squeeze slightly and shift the plates
so that the pins are in the large hole. Then remove the
link halves. Using an absorbent rag to grip the link can
help because it absorbs oil and increase the purchase of
you fingers.

--
Michael Press

Michael Press said:

The link must be clean. This means thoroughly flush all
the grit out of the area where the PL outer plates meet
the inner plates of the chain.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Most of the time when I struggle
to get that SRAM critter off is when the chain is dirty and you can't
squeeze the link enough for removal. If I clean it first it will be
easier to remove. Ironically, the reason that I am removing the chain
most of the time is to clean it.

Aside from that annoyance, the SRAM link never failed out on a ride.
Can't say the same for the Shimano pin thingy. I happened to try the
Connex chain/link when they were on clearance and seem to have the
ultimate solution. A bit pricey though when not on sale.

Chris

Michael Press said:

The link must be clean. This means thoroughly flush all
the grit out of the area where the PL outer plates meet
the inner plates of the chain.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Most of the time when I struggle
to get that SRAM critter off is when the chain is dirty and you can't
squeeze the link enough for removal. If I clean it first it will be
easier to remove. Ironically, the reason that I am removing the chain
most of the time is to clean it.

Aside from that annoyance, the SRAM link never failed out on a ride.
Can't say the same for the Shimano pin thingy. I happened to try the
Connex chain/link when they were on clearance and seem to have the
ultimate solution. A bit pricey though when not on sale.

Chris

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Chris Nelson said:

Sheldon Brown said:

>(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as I
found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

Connex works for you; stay with it.

Since you are asking, the SRAM link is easy to disassemble
when the method is known, and you practice a little.

The link must be clean. This means thoroughly flush all
the grit out of the area where the PL outer plates meet
the inner plates of the chain.

One way to learn is to install a PL on a clean chain off
the bike on your bench. Put it on, take it off, put it on,
take it off... Bend the chain into a U shape at the link.
Put the forefinger and thumb of the left hand on opposite
sides of the link, squeeze slightly and shift the plates
so that the pins are in the large hole. Then remove the
link halves. Using an absorbent rag to grip the link can
help because it absorbs oil and increase the purchase of
you fingers.

Yep, it's that squeezing the link together in the middle bit that makes it easy.

Ron

Chris Nelson said:

Sheldon Brown said:

Quoted message said:

(I'm a Sram Powerlink guy)

I avoid Shimano chains also but got frustrated with SRAM Powerlink as I
found them annoying to remove. I've had a much easier go at link
removal with the Wipperman Connex link. Anyone else find this to be
true?

I am SRAM-addicted. Got some troubles to disassemble them in the beginning.
Then I got the trick. You must *look* at the link and use the correct hand
to push the correct plate. It is not the same thing to use one hand or the
other, there is an order that must be respected. This is not needed if we
push the *pins* together. If you look at the plate, you can see which end
must be pushed in which direction in order to bring the two plates in the
"clear" position. Do some practice with a clean link/chain and you'll see
what I mean.

Ciao,
--
Roberto Divia` Love at first sight is one of the greatest
Dep:PH Bat:53 Mailbox:C02110 labour-saving devices the world has ever seen
Route de Meyrin 385 ---------------------------------------------
Case Postale Phone: +41-22-767-4994
CH-1211 Geneve 23 CERN Fax: +41-22-767-9585
Switzerland E-Mail: [email hidden]