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ISIS Cranks off center

Started by OldDrone · · Last activity · 10 posts · 257 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
24 October 2007
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26 October 2007
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OldDrone
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  1. I just got a new Nimbus II 20 with ISIS cranks. I have noticed that the
    left crank is not the same distance from the frame as the right crank.
    Is this normal or does it need to be corrected?

    To confirm what the problem is I took the wheel out of the frame and
    measured the key dimensions, see below. Dimensions are in inches.

    Distance from inside bearing edge to hub flange:
    Left side = .685, Right side = .680, Delta = .005 🙂

    Distance from inside crank arm to outside edge of bearing:
    Left side = .180, Right side = .065, *Delta = .115 *🙁

    I am assuming that this is from either, torquing the right harder than
    the left, or it is from manufacturing tolerance/error.

    Does anybody have any insite on this, and should I have this corrected?

    --
    OldDrone
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  2. Tell this to whoever you bought it from, but it's probably not enough to
    be a problem.

    --
    skilewis74

    Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
    are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
    time do it along the way.
    Parafrasing a pro skater when asked for advise to kids who wanted to
    get much better and maybee turn pro one day.
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  3. Yes, I was going to say the short answer is that .115" is not enough to
    notice or worry about. But on the other hand, a guy thorough enough to
    calculate the .115" in the first place might be a meticulous guy who
    wants perfection. In that case, I'm not sure what's the right way to
    make it perfect, but I'll add that riding the thing may tend to make it
    imperfect anyway. 🙂

    --
    johnfoss

    John Foss
    Email: "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
    -----------------------------------------------

    Man with broken collar bone say: "Have you checked your shoelaces
    lately?"
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  4. ride with it and dont complain. make sure the cranks are tight enough
    though.
    i modded my profiles to fit the hub better by taking off a spacer so
    the left crank is closer to the bearing than the right it. and i dont
    notice the difference

    --
    torkerdx

    gordito8me said:

    it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid,
    but not really that fun.

    skianduniaddict said:

    never give 4 teenagers a camera... they go crazy

    johnfoss said:

    Yes, being old makes you stupid.


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  5. it isn't a big error, but if it doesn't have shims, one has been taken
    off and put back on, or is noticably cranked down harder, also,
    bearings move quite a bit if there are no shims.

    --
    skrobo

    Quoted message said:

    <> Unicycle For Christ <><


    'YOUneedtoTUBE MYTUBE' (http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=skroboskim)
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  6. I took the retention bolts out of the crank arms to compare.

    The right arm is tightened to the point were the bolt washers bottom
    out with the hub.

    The arm has .115 inch seperating the end of the hub and the bottom of
    the crank rentention bolt bore.

    This tells me that the Right arm is either overly cranked on or
    deffective, or the right side of the hub is defective. I say this
    because there is no more space to thighten the Right arm if it ever
    comes loose. We all know it will come loose with use.

    --
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  7. OldDrone said:

    The right arm is tightened to the point were the bolt washers bottom out
    with the hub.

    Before I thought you were just being picky but now I think that you
    truly found a defect that is worth a complaint and a replacement from
    whomever you bought it from. If you get that replaced now you might
    have just saved yourself a headache.

    --
    saskatchewanian

    The Coker isn't elegant, it's majestic
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  8. ya i think you might have a defected one, go back to the guy and ask for
    a replacment part or your mony back.

    --
    superiorbalence
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  9. Try swapping over the cranks to see if the right crank bottoms out on
    the left side, or the left crank bottoms out on the right side.
    That'll tell you where the problem is. (Don't ride it though, or your
    pedals will fall off).

    If it's the crank, then tell the people you bought it from, and ask if
    they want to send you a new crank - If they are happy with it, and it
    becomes a problem a few months down the line, then you can go back to
    them, point out that you reported it at the time, and you should get it
    replaced.

    If it's the hub, then I'd ask for the whole thing to be swapped. You
    don't want to be messing about relacing wheel to change a hub if it
    starts to play up.

    STM

    --
    semach.the.monkey
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  10. Problem solved:

    The problem is that the cranks were installed without the spindle crank
    spacers.

    This spacer slides over the spindle, rest against the inner bearing
    race, and creates a stop for the crank to rest against. This causes
    the crank to always be the same distance from the center of the hub. A
    great feature. Unfortunately, if it is not included and the cranks are
    torqued down you will will deform the cranks.

    Fortunately, I called Unicycle.com and told them what the problem is
    and they are sending me new cranks, crank bolts, and the missing
    spindle crank spacers. Yeah!

    --
    OldDrone
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