Kris Holm: How about some "legacy" support?

some non drilled rims and some better seatposts/seat stiffeners would be
really nice as well... and 13 ga. spokes = 🙁 how much weight
difference is there between 13 and 12 ga. spokes?

-stephen- just posting concerns...

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True your wheel, keep all the spoke tight, then shut up. Don't go
whining to Kris about how you did a twelve foot drop with loose spokes
and damaged your rim.
If you are breaking posts and seatbases, stop being cheap and get a
thompson and CF base. Don't [censored] at kris when you overabuse a product.

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leo said:

Without cocks you wouldn't even have a family forum.

'My Trials Course'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64079)
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Seager said:

I know I'm not the only guy out there sporting a sweet custom frame that
was made several years ago for the profile hub. Many of us really want
to buy your sweet Moment hub but can't due to bearing size issues.

So, maybe on your '08 set you could offer a 40mm OD bearing option for
us legacy users? I would would buy your product in a heartbeat - and
several other people would to!

A 160mm crank option would also be sweet (150 jumps to 165, wtf?), but
I'd settle for just the bearings.

Thanks!

Well, the profile hub is pretty darn good. I'm not sure why you would
really need the Moment hub when you have a profile.

For bearings, just go to http://www.bocabearings.com/ and buy them with
whatever inside mm you need. You should be able to get the size you
need.

Regarding cranks...do you really need anything longer than 150? 🙂
..and if you really do, then 165's are better than the 'old 170 size
that older KH24's came with (and I used those for a long time before
switching to 150's on a new KH).

-corbin

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spokes were tight... the first time i bent it jumping over something and
landing the same height i jumped from. actually, i would like to see a
well trussed drilled double walled drilled rim(drilled or not).

also, a lot of people break seatposts, i don't have a problem with it
personally, but i know that a whole lot of people break the seat
stiffeners, and it is by far the weakest link on his unicycles.

eh, nvm that part...

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Danni said:

True your wheel, keep all the spoke tight, then shut up. Don't go
whining to Kris about how you did a twelve foot drop with loose spokes
and damaged your rim.
If you are breaking posts and seatbases, stop being cheap and get a
thompson and CF base. Don't [censored] at kris when you overabuse a product.

there is nothing wrong with suggesting stronger components. i think it
would be sweet if kris made a reinforced seatpost like the qu-ax, and
an undrilled rim like try-all does

--
Det-riot

Jerrick said:

I think we should get off the topic off kinky/horny girls and unicycles,
and back to creepy horny men.

Into The Blue said:

Well personally I've never felt the urge to masturbate in public or
where I work, so that show of self control is pretty much cancelled
out.

'MRIS!!!!' (http://tinyurl.com/2486qk)
'1000th Post' (http://tinyurl.com/33shzt)
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Det-riot said:

there is nothing wrong with suggesting stronger components. i think it
would be sweet if kris made a reinforced seatpost like the qu-ax, and
an undrilled rim like try-all does

+1 bit of an over reaction 🙄

--
thejdw

I didn't spell it wrong, you just read it wrong!

kington99 said:

A hobnob is an oaty biscuit, the fact that they don't exist in america
just goes to show that you have no culinary heritage 🙂

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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Seager said:

A 160mm crank option would also be sweet (150 jumps to 165, wtf?), but
I'd settle for just the bearings.

Thanks!

the reals question is 137 jumping to 150
maybe some nice oldschool 145's for us profile riders...🙂

--
torkerdx

gordito8me said:

it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid,
but not really that fun.

skianduniaddict said:

never give 4 teenagers a camera... they go crazy

johnfoss said:

Yes, being old makes you stupid.

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Seager said:

A 160mm crank option would also be sweet (150 jumps to 165, wtf?), but
I'd settle for just the bearings.

The difference between 150 and 165 is pretty dang subtle in practice.
There's no reason to have another crank length between them.

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corbin said:

Well, the profile hub is pretty darn good. I'm not sure why you would
really need the Moment hub when you have a profile.

The thing is I want to upgrade from my suzue hub to splined and can't
afford a profile. I've been trying to find a used profile hub for 2
years. (Not kidding)

Quoted message said:

Regarding cranks...do you really need anything longer than 150? 🙂
..and if you really do, then 165's are better than the 'old 170 size
that older KH24's came with (and I used those for a long time before
switching to 150's on a new KH).

I ride 150mm nimbus X cranks now and would really like just a little
bit of added torque, but not the loss of speed that 165mm delivers. I
do think there is a noticeable diff between 160 and 165, but not enough
to warrant the huge price difference between profile and moments.

--
Seager

'Team RoadShow' (http://www.teamroadshow.com) | 'Unexpected Failure
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slap 'these' (http://tinyurl.com/yvt53c) on a KH hub, shim them up to
size(only 1mm small), and sell the KH bearings on the trading post.

--
zfreak220

pshf.
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zfreak220 said:

slap 'these' (http://tinyurl.com/yvt53c) on a KH hub, shim them up to
size(only 1mm small), and sell the KH bearings on the trading post.

Are those the correct width?

--
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I thought they were, but when I checked it turns out the bearings are
12mm wide.

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zfreak220

pshf.
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I don't see how people fuss so much over 5mm of crank length. I ride a
24x3 muni with 145mm cranks at school, and a 24x3 muni with 150s at
home. I can't tell the difference. 170s are long, but that's the only
jump I notice.

I don't notice the difference between 140s, 145s, and 150s, either.
Again, why whine about it? You guys do understand that a larger choice
of products corresponds to higher general prices, right?

Seager, I might have an extra profile hub for you (depending on whether
or not I can resolve the issues I've got with my current one). It's got
170mm cranks on it, though, which aren't the best, but do the job.
E-mail me, and we'll see what we can figure out. onewheeler (att)
gm(removethis)ail (ddot) com

The 40mmvs 42mm bearing issue has already been discussed. the
conclusion was that 20mmx40mm bearing are extremely hard to find, and
the price of 17x40mm bearings was dramatically higher than that of
20x42mm.

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(Shut up and ride)

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zfreak220 said:

I thought they were, but when I checked it turns out the bearings are
12mm wide.

hmm
and shims do exist...

--
skrobo

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I have no idea what the min. order size for custom ball bearings is.
Maybe 5000+, before they could be sold for a reasonable amount. KH
doesn't make bearings and get's the 22x42 size from Qu-ax, who figured
they could supply the whole 22x42 market by getting a huge lot of this
custom size from a bearing maker. The number of people who want 22x40
is way smaller. Not that I ever checked, but to make a small run of 100
bearings is likely out of the question in cost.

I think if you take your frame to a machinist, they could hone out
your bearing holders to 42 mm for 20 $ or so with a hone. This tool is
commonly used to enlarge cylinder bores. It is put on a drill and spins
around. If you can find one small enough, it should be a short job to
hone out your holders.

Or maybe you can buy one, and get work fixing everyone else's as
well.🙂

+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: 10418 ENGINE CYLINDER HONE.jpg |
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Increasing the inner diameter in a bearing holder is a bad idea.

They are thin enough as it is, I believe if they are honed, it will
substantially weaken the frame.

--
Borgschulze

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http://tinyurl.com/25ha25

An engine hone is to big, but a brake cylinder bore hone will do
fine, and it's cheap to !🙂

Because less then 1 mm of metal needs to be removed from the frame and
the shell, I would think that plenty of metal would remain to provide
strength.

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A big problem with the hone idea is if there are flanges on the sides of
the holders, that may interfere with the hone. I guess it depends on
what your holders look like.

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