Lawyer lip fork options

Squat'n Dive said:

I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez
sport.
What's are my options? i believe i currently have an aluminum fork
and haven't trashed a single fork in my lifetime, but the fork
destroyer thread got me thinking. Are titanium/carbon fiber forks
expensive?

What are typical failure modes for titanium/carbon/steel forks?

Should i exclude aluminium from my shortlist?

Is a fork swap difficult of a diy project?
i inverted the fork bracket this weekend so i know how to get to the
headtube
from the top. but i have no idea if i need any tools to yank the fork
out.
is there some tricky bearing in the tube? would i need some automotive
grease on reassembly?
thanks!

You're gonna need a cross compatible wheel, fork, and road lever
compatible caliper. I'd say $200 minimum for parts with a steel fork.--
if you truly shop around. You'll also likely need a new headset if
you're not lucky enough to remove the crown race w/o trashing it.
Setting the crown race and pressing in the bearing cups if needed, are
two things I'd leave to the shop, otherwise, the Parktool.com site has
enough resources to help you out.

A cheaper fix would be to dial in the brakes you have. Make sure the
cable routing is good, that your brake pads are of good quality and
adjusted properly. Don't forget to clean those rims. Even house
branded Tektro or Promax brakes are capable of fine performance if set
up right.

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez
sport.

Why?

BobT

On Dec 26, 3:07 pm, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...> I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez

Quoted message said:

sport.

Why?

aerobars will arrive soon and i don't know if i can live without a
brake lever up there,
since that setup is new to me. i'm not adventurous enough to move
existing controls up
there yet. so having a dual front brake setup seems to be a logical
solution for
people undecided where they want to keep arms most of the time (me).

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Dec 26, 3:07 pm, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...>
I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez

Quoted message said:

sport.

Why?

aerobars will arrive soon and i don't know if i can live without a
brake lever up there,
since that setup is new to me. i'm not adventurous enough to move
existing controls up
there yet. so having a dual front brake setup seems to be a logical
solution for
people undecided where they want to keep arms most of the time (me).

I don't think I've ever seen brake levers on aerobars. Perhaps someone can
point to a example.

BobT

BobT said:

I don't think I've ever seen brake levers on aerobars. Perhaps someone can
point to a example.

BobT

Dear Bob,

Google for aerobars brake levers:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360012606&N=Cane%20Creek%20200TT%20Brake%20Lever%20Set

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

BobT said:

I don't think I've ever seen brake levers on aerobars. Perhaps someone
can
point to a example.

BobT

Dear Bob,

Google for aerobars brake levers:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360012606&N=Cane%20Creek%20200TT%20Brake%20Lever%20Set

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

I did Google "aerobars brake levers". I found lots of brake levers on the
"base bars" of aerobar setups as in your link above. I can't find any
examples of brake levers on the what I would call the aerobars proper. If
I am understanding Squat'N Dive's post correctly, I think he wants to leave
the rim brake levers on the base bars and add a disk brake with a separate
lever on the "out front" aerobars. Or as he puts it, "a brake lever up
there".

BobT

landotter said:

Squat'n Dive said:

I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez
sport.
What's are my options? i believe i currently have an aluminum fork
and haven't trashed a single fork in my lifetime, but the fork
destroyer thread got me thinking. Are titanium/carbon fiber forks
expensive?

Quoted message said:

What are typical failure modes for titanium/carbon/steel forks?

Quoted message said:

Should i exclude aluminium from my shortlist?

Quoted message said:

Is a fork swap difficult of a diy project?
i inverted the fork bracket this weekend so i know how to get to the
headtube
from the top. but i have no idea if i need any tools to yank the fork
out.
is there some tricky bearing in the tube? would i need some automotive
grease on reassembly?
thanks!

You're gonna need a cross compatible wheel, fork, and road lever
compatible caliper. I'd say $200 minimum for parts with a steel fork.--
if you truly shop around. You'll also likely need a new headset if
you're not lucky enough to remove the crown race w/o trashing it.
Setting the crown race and pressing in the bearing cups if needed, are
two things I'd leave to the shop, otherwise, the Parktool.com site has
enough resources to help you out.

A cheaper fix would be to dial in the brakes you have. Make sure the
cable routing is good, that your brake pads are of good quality and
adjusted properly. Don't forget to clean those rims. Even house
branded Tektro or Promax brakes are capable of fine performance if set
up right.- Hide quoted text -

The road lever will also need cable housing all the way to the front
caliper -- no big deal, but you don't want to be caught short. I have
discs on my cross bike (my usual commuting bike). They're great, but
I wouldn't bother putting them on a single bike that was spec'd for
dual pivots -- like the Allez Sport. Good dual pivots with the right
pads work as good or better than discs on dry pavment and almost as
good in the wet (but not quite). Apart from being really great at
stopping in wet crud, discs, IMO, work better than cantis with STI
levers. My cantis never had enough stopping power with STI levers,
and I don't know why -- even after endless fussing. They're good
brakes, too -- Paul Neo Retro. On my canti bike, I use bar ends and
some old NR levers (this is my retro bike that is going to get a dyno
front hub eventually). In any event, unless you do a lot of riding in
rim-eating crud, I don't think you need a disc brake -- particularly
in light of the fussing around you would have to do to put one on your
already fine bike. -- Jay Beattie.

In article <[email hidden]>,

BobT said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

BobT said:

I don't think I've ever seen brake levers on aerobars. Perhaps someone
can
point to a example.

BobT

Dear Bob,

Google for aerobars brake levers:

<http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360012606&N=Cane%20Creek%20200TT%20Brake%20Lever%20Set>

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

I did Google "aerobars brake levers". I found lots of brake levers on the
"base bars" of aerobar setups as in your link above. I can't find any
examples of brake levers on the what I would call the aerobars proper. If
I am understanding Squat'N Dive's post correctly, I think he wants to leave
the rim brake levers on the base bars and add a disk brake with a separate
lever on the "out front" aerobars. Or as he puts it, "a brake lever up
there".

BobT

More of the same:

<http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/111-Brake+Levers.aspx?s=1474>

They can be used either place, though the normal setup is shifters at
the tips of the aero bars, and brakes on the base bars.

However, Nashbar used to sell a "speed modulator", which was a little
cone-shaped lever designed to stick out of the tip of the aero bars.
Tipping the cone activated the brakes, but I believe the design gave the
rider little leverage, so it would have only been good for a slight
speed mitigation.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing

Ryan Cousineau said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

BobT said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 17:25:15 -0600, "BobT"
<[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>I don't think I've ever seen brake levers on aerobars. Perhaps someone
>can
>point to a example.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>BobT

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Dear Bob,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Google for aerobars brake levers:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=536001260...>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Cheers,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Carl Fogel

Quoted message said:

I did Google "aerobars brake levers". I found lots of brake levers on the
"base bars" of aerobar setups as in your link above. I can't find any
examples of brake levers on the what I would call the aerobars proper. If
I am understanding Squat'N Dive's post correctly, I think he wants to leave
the rim brake levers on the base bars and add a disk brake with a separate
lever on the "out front" aerobars. Or as he puts it, "a brake lever up
there".

Quoted message said:

BobT

More of the same:

<http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/111-Brake+Levers.aspx?s=1474>

They can be used either place, though the normal setup is shifters at
the tips of the aero bars, and brakes on the base bars.

However, Nashbar used to sell a "speed modulator", which was a little
cone-shaped lever designed to stick out of the tip of the aero bars.
Tipping the cone activated the brakes, but I believe the design gave the
rider little leverage, so it would have only been good for a slight
speed mitigation.

Alternatively the rear brake/shifter for the cassette would have to be
moved to the aerobar
leaving me with two front brake levers and the crank shifter on the
base bars.
does that setup makes any more sense or i should just move one control
onto the bar and leave
the other one alone staying with the rim brakes?

how well do ceramic wheels (open pro?) work with rim brakes?

LO gives advice that maybe you don't need the hassle to which I offer
my usual for CRC Belt Conditioner sprayed on the rim braking surface
after cleaning with thinner/isoproply CHOH. Spray pads. DRY.
clean stage one with isoproply, stage two for real dirt, thinner then
iso to get the thinner off then respray with CRC
THIS STOPS.
most discussion of disc mods/upgrades(?) average out to the conclusion
it's too much hassle now then and later.

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Alternatively the rear brake/shifter for the cassette would have to be
moved to the aerobar
leaving me with two front brake levers and the crank shifter on the
base bars.
does that setup makes any more sense or i should just move one control
onto the bar and leave
the other one alone staying with the rim brakes?

What most people do on road bikes, probably better called road racing bikes,
with drop handlebars is to use standard brake/shifter (Campy Ergo or Shimano
STI) levers on the drop bar with side-pull rim brakes and no levers at all
on the aerobars.

example: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/KewlNitrox/Aero-close.jpg

In triathlon or time trial specific bikes, many people use "base bars",
sometimes called cow horn bars with reverse brake levers. Side-pull rim
brakes are most commonly used. In this setup, most people use bar-end type
shifters in the forward ends of the aerobars and no brake levers on the
aerobars.

example:
http://beaconhilltri.files.wordpress.com/2007/05/barendshifters.jpg

Of course, you can do whatever floats your boat. I'm merely telling you
what is most popular which doesn't always equate with what's best for you.

Quoted message said:

how well do ceramic wheels (open pro?) work with rim brakes?

They work great for me especially in wet conditions. Some argue they are
not an improvement. Here's what Mavic claims:

1. Reduces braking distance by increasing the coefficient of friction
between the rim and the brake pads (50% shorter in wet weather)
2. Superior resistance to wear
3. Reduces heat on rim
4. Considered as an external wear indicator

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims. Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated rims.

BobT

On Dec 27, 11:36 am, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims.  Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated rims.

Oooh, green brake pads... since the bike shop has told me that they've
finally found someone in Asia with green Chris King hubs (to go with
my green Chris King headset) I may have to get those as a extra
blingbling touch.

I'm also getting green derailleur jockey wheels, green chainring
bolts, and green bar caps and have already checked to make sure that
the colors are compatible shades.

-M

Marian said:

On Dec 27, 11:36 am, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims.  Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coatedrims.

Oooh, green brake pads... since the bike shop has told me that they've
finally found someone in Asia with green Chris King hubs (to go with
my green Chris King headset) I may have to get those as a extra
blingbling touch.

I'm also getting green derailleur jockey wheels, green chainring
bolts, and green bar caps and have already checked to make sure that
the colors are compatible shades.

-M

say, are you upper or Lower Marian ?

Marian said:

On Dec 27, 11:36 am, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims. Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated rims.

Oooh, green brake pads... since the bike shop has told me that they've
finally found someone in Asia with green Chris King hubs (to go with
my green Chris King headset) I may have to get those as a extra
blingbling touch.

I'm also getting green derailleur jockey wheels, green chainring
bolts, and green bar caps and have already checked to make sure that
the colors are compatible shades.

-M

I try to visualize it.
Nope, I don't like what I see....

Lou

On Dec 26, 9:36 pm, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Alternatively the rear brake/shifter for the cassette would have to be
moved to the aerobar
leaving me with two front brake levers and the crank shifter on the
base bars.
does that setup makes any more sense or i should just move one control
onto the bar and leave
the other one alone staying with the rim brakes?

What most people do on road bikes, probably better called road racing bikes,
with drop handlebars is to use standard brake/shifter (Campy Ergo or Shimano
STI) levers on the drop bar with side-pull rim brakes and no levers at all
on the aerobars.

example: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/KewlNitrox/Aero-close.jpg

In triathlon or time trial specific bikes, many people use "base bars",
sometimes called cow horn bars with reverse brake levers. Side-pull rim
brakes are most commonly used. In this setup, most people use bar-end type
shifters in the forward ends of the aerobars and no brake levers on the
aerobars.

example:http://beaconhilltri.files.wordpress.com/2007/05/barendshifters.jpg

i guess these shifters would cost me as much as my entire bike does.
but thanks. i guess i'll stay with the bare bars for now. it was not
such a bright idea
to move any front brakes onto the bars anyway.

Quoted message said:

Of course, you can do whatever floats your boat. I'm merely telling you
what is most popular which doesn't always equate with what's best for you.

Quoted message said:

how well do ceramic wheels (open pro?) work with rim brakes?

They work great for me especially in wet conditions. Some argue they are
not an improvement. Here's what Mavic claims:

Quoted message said:

4. Considered as an external wear indicator

what does that mean?

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims. Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated rims.

are greens a harder compound then salmons? how do they compare to
salmons on ceramic?

what about the drawbacks of ceramic rims? there must be some since the
aluminum
rims are still widespread. are creamic rims easier to trash?
can they be trued or they never become wobbly?

Squat'n Dive said:

On Dec 26, 3:07 pm, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...> I'm slowly crawling towards a front disk brake setup on my allez

Quoted message said:

sport.

Why?

aerobars will arrive soon and i don't know if i can live without a
brake lever up there,
since that setup is new to me. i'm not adventurous enough to move
existing controls up
there yet. so having a dual front brake setup seems to be a logical
solution for
people undecided where they want to keep arms most of the time (me).

If you could figure out the cable routing, you could add in-line brake
levers: <http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=146>.

Another alternative would be to get custom brake mounting hardware so
you could mount a second caliper on the back of the fork.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
POST FREE OR DIE!

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Marian said:

On Dec 27, 11:36 am, "BobT" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available for
ceramic rims.  Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated rims.

Oooh, green brake pads... since the bike shop has told me that they've
finally found someone in Asia with green Chris King hubs (to go with
my green Chris King headset) I may have to get those as a extra
blingbling touch.

I'm also getting green derailleur jockey wheels, green chainring
bolts, and green bar caps and have already checked to make sure that
the colors are compatible shades.

-M

I'm jealous. If only there was some apropos idiom for evocatively
expressing my feelings here....

--
Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing

"Squat'n Dive" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

4. Considered as an external wear indicator

what does that mean?

The Mavic ceramic rims have a ceramic coating on the braking surface. The
rest of the rim is metal. I'm guessing when the ceramic coating wears off,
one can see the underlying metal and hence Mavic's statement, "external wear
indicator". My ceramic coated rim, now 20 months old, looks just like it
did when I first mounted a tire on it.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Probably Kool-Stop Z-Chromium (green) brake pads are the best available
for
ceramic rims. Standard brake pads wear out faster with ceramic coated
rims.

are greens a harder compound then salmons? how do they compare to
salmons on ceramic?

Kool-Stop claims they are more heat resistant than regular brake pads and
last longer. I don't know whether this equates to hardest.

Quoted message said:

what about the drawbacks of ceramic rims? there must be some since the
aluminum
rims are still widespread. are creamic rims easier to trash?
can they be trued or they never become wobbly?

See above

BobT