Lighting--Update to http://bicyclelighting.com

"Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:35:07 GMT,

Quoted message said:

Dynamo powered lights are for serious cyclists. You don't need one.

Very funny.

I tend to be very unserious while commuting, especially at night when I'm
riding home, so I guess you're right. I even wear colored socks while riding
(on occasion), and everyone knows that serious cyclists only wear white
socks. I have 700C wheels, while I read that serious cyclists all use 650C
wheels. I do have some dynamo lights, but now that I know that I'm not
qualified to have them, I'm going to go throw them into a river.

I hope you're not equating a "true cyclist" with a "serious cyclist." Ken
Kifer does have a page on his site
(http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/lifestyle/trucycle.htm) that explains
what a "true cyclist" is, and I very much fit that description.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Just zis Guy said:

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:23:13 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

IMO this is the best solution, with an automatic switch for the
second light. Besides, it's helpful to aim the secondary, high speed
light a bit further down the road than the primary one.

Where can I get a circuit diagram for an automatic switch for the
secondary light?

Dunno, I've been looking for one myself!

Frank K. has written about his switched system, but with a manual switch.
Making it automatic would be the final touch of perfection.

The problem is that making it automatic has a cost in terms of power.
Somehow you'll need to switch the second light into the circuit, which will
likely require a small relay that draws 20mA at 5V, or 100mW, and probably
another 100mW or so for the rest of the circuit.

"Marty Wallace" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I always thought that a speed sensor on the front wheel would be best.
Switch a second light on when you're going fast, switch it off when you're
going slow. You'd need aa bit of hysterysis to stop it switching too often
at the changeover speed.

This would be needlessy complicated, and it would have to be calibrated for
different size wheels. Switching based on the output voltage of the
alternator would be the simplest.

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

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Specialized and Trek Discontinue their Wide Angle LED Flashers

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

--

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---
The discontinuation of the only two wide angle LED flashers (from Trek

and

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Specialized) is a disappointment, though they were never widely

available

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so
few people were even aware they existed. These two models solved one of
the
major design problems with LED flashers, the lack of wide-angle

visibility

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(on most LED flashers the LEDS point only to the rear). I've left them

up

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on
the web page just in case someone is able to find one somewhere.

TREK part# 69575, Disco Inferno flashing tail-light, presently available

in

Quoted message said:

large qtys at both east & west-coast warehouses (midwest warehouse

presently

Quoted message said:

out of stock). This light has not to my knowledge been discontinued and,

in

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fact, has been recently revised. Price is about $25. Impressive light;

I've

Quoted message said:

installed one on my rain bike.

Hmm, why did Trek remove it from their web site?

Thu, 28 Oct 2004 04:43:55 GMT,
<[email hidden]>,

Steven M. Scharf said:

I hope you're not equating a "true cyclist" with a "serious cyclist." Ken
Kifer does have a page on his site
(http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/lifestyle/trucycle.htm) that explains
what a "true cyclist" is, and I very much fit that description

As per your reference:
"True cyclists, also known as serious cyclists, genuine cyclists, and
real cyclists, demonstrate unusual behavior, clothing, and lifestyle."

A desk lamp zip tied to your handlebar isn't a serious bike light.
--
zk

Quoted message said:

My main headlamp is a Luxeon III which I underdrive at 700ma for about
2.6 watt. It is projected to last 100,000 hours and has a good enough
light to ride at 25 - 30 km's in rural areas,which I do on my commute.

I just ordered a Luxeon III-based light which I plan to mount on my helmet.
It's rated at 600mA off of 2AAs, which will not let it last too terribly
long (1.5-2 hrs), but since AA rechargeables are cheap and easy and plenty,
I think I'll be good to go. Will post results here sometime.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Quoted message said:

Hmm, why did Trek remove it from their web site?

As connected as I am with people at Trek, there are an awful lot of things
that I can't figure out. Still, they get quite a bit done with a pretty
minimal number of people (as is with case with all bike companies).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 06:17:24 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hmm, why did Trek remove it from their web site?

As connected as I am with people at Trek, there are an awful lot of things
that I can't figure out. Still, they get quite a bit done with a pretty
minimal number of people (as is with case with all bike companies).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

I was surprised, upon recommending an 1800C road bike with relaxed geometry
couldn't find it anymore. They've put the 1000C and 1200C in one Cat. and
then jump to a 2100C with different set up and different frame, iirc.

2100C:
Start with a light, strong ZR 9000 Alloy mainframe that resists flex for
efficient power transfer. Add bonded OCLV Carbon seat stays to keep the
rear triangle stiff, and a carbon fork to soak up vibration. The result is
Third Dimension Technology, "

http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Road/Comfort_Road/Third_Dimension/2100C/index.php

The 1800C with Ultegra is missing. No big deal I guess. The 1000C is
looking pretty good now, with Tiagra in back, and now uh, Metallic Black.
Figures. Just when I put aside enough to get the 1800C... The 1200C is now
silver...sigh.

Is November a good month to still find sales on '04 bikes, or is the
inventory running too low?

-B

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Marty Wallace" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I always thought that a speed sensor on the front wheel would be best.
Switch a second light on when you're going fast, switch it off when

you're

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

going slow. You'd need aa bit of hysterysis to stop it switching too

often

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

at the changeover speed.

This would be needlessy complicated, and it would have to be calibrated

for

Quoted message said:

different size wheels. Switching based on the output voltage of the
alternator would be the simplest.

Well actually I was thinking of a battery operated system. I don't imagine
it would be that complicated, what's wrong with a potentiometer to adjust
the setting?

Marty

Marty

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

My main headlamp is a Luxeon III which I underdrive at 700ma for about
2.6 watt. It is projected to last 100,000 hours and has a good enough
light to ride at 25 - 30 km's in rural areas,which I do on my commute.

I just ordered a Luxeon III-based light which I plan to mount on my

helmet.

Quoted message said:

It's rated at 600mA off of 2AAs, which will not let it last too terribly
long (1.5-2 hrs), but since AA rechargeables are cheap and easy and

plenty,

Quoted message said:

I think I'll be good to go. Will post results here sometime.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

I have two 5 Watt luxeons on my mountain bike and it gives me over 5 hours
of good light from a 12 volt 4 amp hour battery.

Marty

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have two 5 Watt luxeons on my mountain bike and it gives me over 5 hours
of good light from a 12 volt 4 amp hour battery.

Marty

Saw an announcement for a dual 5 watt luxeon from USE
(http://www.exposurelights.com). I can't see how they compare the light
output of this to a 32 watt system. The price is also extremely high
somewhere in the $400 - $500 range.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have two 5 Watt luxeons on my mountain bike and it gives me over 5 hours
of good light from a 12 volt 4 amp hour battery.

Marty

Saw an announcement for a dual 5 watt luxeon from USE
(http://www.exposurelights.com). I can't see how they compare the light
output of this to a 32 watt system. The price is also extremely high
somewhere in the $400 - $500 range.

Jay Beattie said:

"Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Dynamo powered lights are for serious cyclists. You don't need one.

So I am not serious? I have a 20 watt system, and that is not
enough for the fast descents on rough, wet roads between work and
home. I could use more wattage and seriously doubt that a 3w
dynamo powered lamp would do the trick.

This is the common refrain of people who haven't actually used them.
No-one believes a paltry 3W will do the trick until they try it; then you
see that focussing beats power every time. How much of that 20W goes to
light up passing bats, the ground beneath your wheel, and things off to
the side you couldn't steer towards if you wanted to?
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

"rosco" <reverse-the-following"ocsor_g"@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have two 5 Watt luxeons on my mountain bike and it gives me over 5

hours

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

of good light from a 12 volt 4 amp hour battery.

Marty

Saw an announcement for a dual 5 watt luxeon from USE
(http://www.exposurelights.com). I can't see how they compare the light
output of this to a 32 watt system. The price is also extremely high
somewhere in the $400 - $500 range.

I mounted the two Luxeons on a bit of 1/8th inch aluminium plate. The plate
is about 4 inches wide by 2 inches high. I used three small screws to hold
each Luxeon to the plate. Finding the right screws is tricky as the screw
heads go very close to the solder contacts. The lenses fit very nicely into
some one inch PVC waterpipe. The PVC pipe is 23 mm long, this sets the lens
in place nicely. The lens is glued to the PVC pipe and the PVC pipe is glued
to the aluminium. The PVC encircles the Luxeon base and the three screw
heads. I use silicon glue, so it can be pulled apart if required. Between
the Luxeon base and the aluminium I use some heat sink compound to improve
heat transfer.
To hold the aluminium plate to the handlebars I used a plastic electrical
conduit holder (25mm I think).
I got a bit of glare from the light when riding so I taped a bit of
cardboard on top to act as a shade. I'll replace this with something more
sturdy eventually. A better design would be to just put a bend in the
aluminium to act as a shade and it would also add to the heatsink area.
It works very well and is tiny.
The "puck" current regulators are simply taped to the headstem at present.
My 4 amp hour gel cell gives me over 5 hours of good light.

I've put some pictures on my web page here.
http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Luxeon/twin_luxeon_headlights.htm
I still have my old 20 watt lamp as a backup but haven't had to use it
since.

Marty

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

TREK part# 69575, Disco Inferno flashing tail-light, presently available in
large qtys at both east & west-coast warehouses (midwest warehouse presently
out of stock). This light has not to my knowledge been discontinued and, in
fact, has been recently revised. Price is about $25. Impressive light; I've
installed one on my rain bike.

Thanks, I fixed this.

I think I'll order one from your shop since you can get them.

Steven M. Scharf said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

TREK part# 69575, Disco Inferno flashing tail-light, presently
available in large qtys at both east & west-coast warehouses (midwest
warehouse presently out of stock). This light has not to my knowledge
been discontinued and, in fact, has been recently revised. Price is
about $25. Impressive light; I've installed one on my rain bike.

Thanks, I fixed this.

I think I'll order one from your shop since you can get them.

Mike,

Any Trek dealer should be able to order one, correct?

--
Mark Chandler
Superior, CO
http://www.MileHighSkates.com

Steven M. Scharf said:

I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
http://bicyclelighting.com
.
This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on generator
lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a variety of other
related information.

....

Oh. Nice resource. Here I was feeling pretty good about having picked
up a PlanetBike LED tail light that hangs on the helmet. Only one AAA
- good for 100 hours! So it says. I couldn't figure out how to get one
that would fit on the bike, considering that I often have a knapsack
on the back rack which blocks the normal light position. The built-in
bungee cord on the rack doesn't really allow a light to sit on the
back of the rack. I could add a second rear light to the seatstay bar
I guess.

And I was also so proud of my Bell white LED 4 AA battery front light,
recently acquired from KMart. Along with a bunch of rechargeables (not
acquired from KMart). I've already noticed that the beams don't a real
good job of coalescing into a useable beam, but they do seem bright
enough to let other folks know that I am coming.

This is my first bike commuting autumn, and beginning Monday will be
the first real riding in the dark (coming home naturally) although it
has been pretty dark in the mornings when I start out for a few
minutes.

I pretty much take the same route daily, and I'm riding in NYC.
Manhattan, over the 59th Street Bridge (all together now, FEELING
GROOVY), and into Queens. Which means that none of the riding is
really dark. I don't think I need much light to see by, but enough to
be seen.

It isn't really the cost that is significant here. The real problem is
that the bike is locked to a street lamp during the day. That means
that whatever light system I have either leaves with me or it leaves
with someone else. So when I park it, the seat (and attached rack),
computer, and light come with me.

I think, in just a few short days (and they sure are getting short),
I'm going to find out if my system is going to work out. If I need a
stronger front beam, it really HAS to be something very easily
detachable with self-contained batteries. I do have a Trek Vision30
light (2 C cells) that I can use as well that's on another bike. Hmm.
Maybe both? That way if either dies, I still live. Talk about your
handlebar real estate.

Suggestions always appreciated.

Zilla said:

Steven M. Scharf said:

I have updated my bicycle lighting systems web page at
http://bicyclelighting.com
.
This is a web page that details how to construct a low-cost, high
performance, bicycle lighting system. It also includes sections on
generator lighting, horns, myths and facts about lighting, and a
variety of other related information.

Not a lot of changes in this go-round.

You pic on...

"Automatic Switching of an Additional 6V/3W Lamp"

does not load for me...

Okay, I think it is fixed.

Now that I thought more about it, I think that this circuit is
needlessly complex, and it can be done with fewer parts. I'll update it
later.

Marty Wallace said:

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Marty Wallace" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I always thought that a speed sensor on the front wheel would be best.
Switch a second light on when you're going fast, switch it off when

you're

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

going slow. You'd need aa bit of hysterysis to stop it switching too

often

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

at the changeover speed.

This would be needlessy complicated, and it would have to be calibrated

for

Quoted message said:

different size wheels. Switching based on the output voltage of the
alternator would be the simplest.

Well actually I was thinking of a battery operated system. I don't imagine
it would be that complicated, what's wrong with a potentiometer to adjust
the setting?

I think that the one thing that must be avoided is a battery of any
kind. The circuit needs to be powered from the dynamo.

David Damerell said:

Jay Beattie said:

"Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Dynamo powered lights are for serious cyclists. You don't need one.

So I am not serious? I have a 20 watt system, and that is not
enough for the fast descents on rough, wet roads between work and
home. I could use more wattage and seriously doubt that a 3w dynamo
powered lamp would do the trick.

This is the common refrain of people who haven't actually used them.
No-one believes a paltry 3W will do the trick until they try it;
then you see that focussing beats power every time. How much of that
20W goes to light up passing bats, the ground beneath your wheel,
and things off to the side you couldn't steer towards if you wanted
to?

I'll second this. I've ridden from dusk to dawn with a 3W hub
generator powered light and have had no trouble seeing, even
descending at speeds over 35 mph. I use a Schmidt hub, although that
has nothing to do with the quality of illumination; my headlight is a
Lumotec Oval Plus lmap fitted at the fork crown.

In my opinion, overly bright lights actually make it harder to see at
night because they interfere with normal dark adaptation of the
retina. This takes about 45 minutes to develop fully. Placement of
the light up high also compounds the problem- helmet mounted lights
being the worst location. The bounce-back is just about directly into
the eyes, interfering with night vision and also flattening
perspective and minimizing the useful shadows that specify the texture
of the road surface.

The lower the better, best at about the level of the top of the tire
or slightly lower. Of course, none of the battery powered light
manufacturers have designed their products to accomodate this- there's
really no option but to mount then on the handlebars or on one's
helmet. Unfortunately they do not seem to have read any of the basic
textbooks on visual perception, gradient flow, etc.