Looking 4 a new Wheelset

John said:

Hi folks, I'm looking for a new 700C wheelset for my 97 Cannondale
Hybrid with 135mm hub spacing.

--snip--

Quoted message said:

Thanks
John

There's really no reason to go with the Deore hubs (aside from looks).
The differences between Alivio and Deore is generally cosmetic, and the
additional strength of the high spoke count can only help. This is
especially true if you use your bike for commuting on rough roads
(carrying a load) or take it off road.

Whichever you get, you would probably be well advised to take 'em to
your LBS for a check of tension etc.

SYJ

John said:

One other option is getting this single wall wheelset with 130mm hub
spacing and adding a 5mm spacer but I don't like the idea of
redishing since I don't have a tensionmeter. 130mm Here>
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=131&subcategory=1197&brand=&sku=14604&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

Redishing is no big deal- you just loosen the left side spokes a
little, then tighten the right side spokes. While you're at it, you
could probably add a couple turns of tension to the whole wheel- I'll
bet it's undertensioned as delivered.

Tensionmeter? We don' need no stinkin' tensionmeters! I was building
good, strong wheels for years before spoke tension devices appeared. I
find that with lubricated spokes threads and seats, my hand gets tired
roughly when the wheel is reaching maximum sustainable tension. YMMV,
of course.

Jeff

John said:

250 lbs (wow, that's 1/8 of a ton). So, I'm looking at two
wheelsets, the fist set has Shimano Alivio hubs, 36 spokes, the second
set has Deore hubs with 32 spokes, both rims are double walled.

I'd go with the Alivios/Vueltas. They have eyelets also which should
help reduce the chance of rim cracking at that point. I would not
expect the Deore hubs to be any better.

Quoted message said:

So my question is, is the 32 spoke, instead of 36 spokes, not a factor
because the rim is doubled walled and can easily handle 250 lbs?

36 is always better... if you are after durability.

Quoted message said:

One other option is getting this single wall wheelset with 130mm hub
spacing and adding a 5mm spacer but I don't like the idea of
redishing since I don't have a tensionmeter.

Cheap machine-built wheels tend to be undertensioned... so you should
"tune" them anyway, or have someone else do it. If you bought those
wheels you'd want to put the spacer on the non-drive side and probably
just tighten the spokes on that side enough to bring the rim into line.
Be sure to lube the nipple/rim interface.

I have the 2200 hubs BTW. After packing them full of marine grease,
they've worked fine for about 4500 miles so far.

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Ron Ruff said:

John said:

250 lbs (wow, that's 1/8 of a ton). So, I'm looking at two
wheelsets, the fist set has Shimano Alivio hubs, 36 spokes, the second
set has Deore hubs with 32 spokes, both rims are double walled.

I'd go with the Alivios/Vueltas. They have eyelets also which should
help reduce the chance of rim cracking at that point. I would not
expect the Deore hubs to be any better.

Appears not to be a 700c 36h Vuelta rim. They do not show
rim cross sections, but plenty of hitek marketing speak.
<http://www.vueltausa.com/rims.html>

For example:
`Typhoon Road:
Available in 700c for road bikes. 19.6mm high profile and
19.5mm wide. This rim has a matte black painted finish
with the "Vuelta Kronos" logo laserengraved in the
surface. Also features the High Braking Performance
Diamond-Machined rim sidewall with the "Limit Line"
indicator. Available in 32 hole spoke drilling with
eyelets. The ERD is 600 and weighs 500 grams.'

[...]

--
Michael Press

John said:

Hi folks, I'm looking for a new 700C wheelset for my 97 Cannondale
Hybrid with 135mm hub spacing. The total weight of me + bike and gear =
250 lbs (wow, that's 1/8 of a ton). So, I'm looking at two
wheelsets, the fist set has Shimano Alivio hubs, 36 spokes, the second
set has Deore hubs with 32 spokes, both rims are double walled.

I'd really like to get the set with the Deore hubs(only 20$ more)
but not sure if the 32 spoke count is a good idea with the weight even
though the rim is doubled walled.
So my question is, is the 32 spoke, instead of 36 spokes, not a factor
because the rim is doubled walled and can easily handle 250 lbs? See
both wheels here> http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1678
http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1795

One other option is getting this single wall wheelset with 130mm hub
spacing and adding a 5mm spacer but I don't like the idea of
redishing since I don't have a tensionmeter. 130mm Here>
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=131&subcategory=1197&brand=&sku=14604&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

Any other suggestions?

can't Harris make you a wheelset, say with the Deore hubs and a double
walled wheelset and 36h??

Call me and I can. Mavic or Velocity rims, Deore hubs(overhauled and
adjusted, even tho new), DT double butted spokes and 36h.

I would NOT recommend a 32h rear for you regardless of rim.

Quoted message said:

Oh, my original rim was a single wall Sunrim AT18 that lasted a while
but then had 5 spokes break from rust where the spokes crossed (I
think).

Thanks
John

JeffWills said:

Tensionmeter? We don' need no stinkin' tensionmeters! I was building
good, strong wheels for years before spoke tension devices appeared. I
find that with lubricated spokes threads and seats, my hand gets tired
roughly when the wheel is reaching maximum sustainable tension. YMMV,
of course.

Jeff

I guess that second wheel had better be a front then. Geezz a small
dollar tensionometer is like any tool. It has it's place and is a good
idea for any well built wheel.

Thanks for all the imputs

Ron Ruff wrote:
about using a 130mm hub with 135mm dropout spacing after adding the 5mm
on the left side.

Quoted message said:

just tighten the spokes on the drive side enough to bring the rim into line.
Be sure to lube the nipple/rim interface.

I didn't think of that, I can kill two birds with one stone by just
tighting the drive side only to redish and tension at the same time and
just leave the left side pretty much alone. Good idea if I go with
those Shimano 2200's.

Sounds like the Deore hub isn't as good as it's hyped up to be.

Thanks for your help
John

John said:

Ron Ruff *did not* write:

Quoted message said:

just tighten the spokes on the drive side enough to bring the rim into line.

You would tighten the non-drive side... the same side where you put the
spacers. These spokes are fairly loose, so it is pretty easy to do.

Thinking about Peter's recommendation of having some wheels built
custom with good quality double butted spokes... you might be better
off in the long run. They will cost more (probably over $200) but
should last longer, and you won't need to mess with them at all. I got
great service out of my cheapy wheels for over 4,000 miles, but in the
last week I've busted two spokes... hope it isn't going to become a
common occurance.

BTW, my LBS owner said that there were a bunch of generic spokes made
with bad wire during the last year... spec'd on fairly low priced bikes
and wheels.

John said:

Thanks for all the imputs

Ron Ruff wrote:
about using a 130mm hub with 135mm dropout spacing after adding the 5mm
on the left side.

---snip---

This will only work if your axle is long enough - I'd be worried about
having enough exposed to properly engage the frame. You may find that
you need to add spacers & then recenter the axle (requiring adjustment
to both drive and non-drive bearings), and you'd still be pusing it.
You'd be best served by using a hub designed for the 135 spacing (or
cold setting your frame to fit the narrower hub).

SYJ

StaceyJ said:

This will only work if your axle is long enough - I'd be worried about
having enough exposed to properly engage the frame. You may find that

You can get a new, longer axle for 10-20 bucks.

Quoted message said:

you need to add spacers & then recenter the axle (requiring adjustment
to both drive and non-drive bearings), and you'd still be pusing it.
You'd be best served by using a hub designed for the 135 spacing (or
cold setting your frame to fit the narrower hub).

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#vertical :

|I have been experimenting with a more drastic solution: on my Bianchi
|Osprey, I have cut the rear axle short so that it doesn't protrude past
|the surfaces of the locknuts. Thus, only the quick-release skewer goes
|through the dropouts. Since the skewer is quite a bit thinner than the
|actual axle, this gives me considerably more adjustment room.

|If the skewer is properly tightened, the axle is held in place by the
|friction of the locknuts being pressed against the inside of the dropouts.
|If this were not the case, horizontal dropouts would not be usable, since
|the forward pull on the chain creates a larger force against the axle than
|supporting the rider's weight does. Just to be on the safe side, I am
|carrying a spare skewer along with my spare tube.

Jasper