dpc1l said:A friend serviced my bike ... He said the lockring is designed so the thread is in the opposite way to the direction the wheel moves, so it shouldn't work loose.
Your friend might be running on outdated info. There was a time when the smallest cog WAS the lockring, and with that setup each push on the pedals tightened it further. With separate cogs/lockring this action isn't as pronounced anymore.
Quoted post said:I assume it will be quite costly if I take it to a bike shop.
(Assuming the rest of the bike is in good working order) A new cassette doesn't have to be that costly, ($30) and replacing it is a 5-minute job. But if Juba is right about this being a fitting problem, then a simple spacer/washer should be able to solve the problem even cheaper. Depending on how much you have ridden (and the quality of your LBS) they might find some other stuff they'll recommend you to have replaced while they're still at it. That might up the price though.
Quoted post said:Should I buy a new cassette
Not unless there's something wrong with it. An honest LBS should be able to tell you that free, at a glance.
Quoted post said:I think it is a cassette as opposed to a freewheel, as all the 'cog's are separate
It sounds like that. The cogs CAN be handled separately, but usually they're assembled into one unit, with maybe a couple of the smaller ones loose. If yours are ALL loose there is a strong possibility that someone has fiddled around with your cassette earlier, and maybe lost a spacer/washer somewhere in the process. Does it shift all right otherwise?
Quoted post said:Would this sort the problem out?
I can't say, since I don't know the precise cause of your problem.
Quoted post said:Should I buy a new back wheel?
Well, if you stumble on to a (used) wheel with the right number of cogs for a very good price, why not? But you shouldn't actually NEED to to get your problem sorted.