I've just installed a new derailer with a chain and rear casset and now every time I ride the chain will skip and I can't ride it, if I put any load under the pedals at all it just doesnt work. I bought it all off ebay and fitted it myself. The gears are all lined up and under light load can work a treat switching between them all, but I think there might be some compatibilty between the parts I've bought? The model numbers are below, does anyone know if they will work or not work? should they work?
XTR RD-M952 XTR Rear Derailleur Long Cage only XTR CN-7701 LX 9-speed Cassette (CS-M580)
I've just installed a new derailer with a chain and rear casset and now every time I ride the chain will skip and I can't ride it, if I put any load under the pedals at all it just doesnt work. I bought it all off ebay and fitted it myself. The gears are all lined up and under light load can work a treat switching between them all, but I think there might be some compatibilty between the parts I've bought? The model numbers are below, does anyone know if they will work or not work? should they work?
XTR RD-M952 XTR Rear Derailleur Long Cage only XTR CN-7701 LX 9-speed Cassette (CS-M580)
I've just installed a new derailer with a chain and rear casset and now every time I ride the chain will skip and I can't ride it, if I put any load under the pedals at all it just doesnt work. I bought it all off ebay and fitted it myself. The gears are all lined up and under light load can work a treat switching between them all, but I think there might be some compatibilty between the parts I've bought? The model numbers are below, does anyone know if they will work or not work? should they work?
XTR RD-M952 XTR Rear Derailleur Long Cage only XTR CN-7701 LX 9-speed Cassette (CS-M580)
Thanks
No problem the parts are kompatible, the parts are all new? A used cassette and a new chain are maybe the fault or a to long chain. It happens on all chainrings? When the other parts are new and you got a worn chainring it could be happen too.
My next theory on the skipping is that it comes from the derailer which has something wrong with the chain tensioning function on it? Is there a way to wind up the tension so it holds it tighter? I took links out and out and now my chain is definately too short, but it still does the same thing, skips under load.
My next theory on the skipping is that it comes from the derailer which has something wrong with the chain tensioning function on it? Is there a way to wind up the tension so it holds it tighter? I took links out and out and now my chain is definately too short, but it still does the same thing, skips under load.
Thanks Again. Scott C
You can adjust B-Tension spring, this is the spring at the derailleur hanger bolt, it adjust the distance of the upper pulley to follow the sprockets. The chaintensioner arm has only to tension and adjust the chain if if you shift at the front derailleur, to keep the chain tensioned at all ring sizes.
middle and big front chain ring are worn, but the small one is not and sit still skips.
on the rear it skips less on the granny gear, but I think thats due to the fact that the drive train i under less load. If i get the cadence up and really try to accelerate it still skips like [censored].
My next theory on the skipping is that it comes from the derailer which has something wrong with the chain tensioning function on it? Is there a way to wind up the tension so it holds it tighter? I took links out and out and now my chain is definately too short, but it still does the same thing, skips under load.
Thanks Again. Scott C
If you have an "old" cassette with a new chain, it will skipp most on the smaler sprockets, if you have "new" cassette and a "old" chain, it will skipp at all sprockets. If you have new cassette and chain, but "old" worn chainrings, it will skip too, check it at all rings, when it skip only at the middle ring for example, then the chainring is the problem, if it happen at all rings the rings are okay. A to long chain has maybe the same effect, but not a to short chain. An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
You can't realy adjust the tension of your chain when the lengh is correct and the B-Tension spring is to adjust only the distance from upper pulley to sprocket for correct shifting but the chain lengh is important.
An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
Thanks for the advice Volker.
I'm fairly mechanically minded so I am confident all the troubleshooting I've done so far points to the rear casset and the chain or something to do with either of them, chain tension or hub fitting.
Ive got a deore hub on there that's about 6 months old, but I've given a bit of a beeting. I've got a brande new lx casset on there with the new chain (specs in previous post). So is that what your talking about above about they could be slipping? It seemed to slide on ok onto the keyed slots. Is there anything to look for?
An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
Thanks for the advice Volker.
I'm fairly mechanically minded so I am confident all the troubleshooting I've done so far points to the rear casset and the chain or something to do with either of them, chain tension or hub fitting.
Ive got a deore hub on there that's about 6 months old, but I've given a bit of a beeting. I've got a brande new lx casset on there with the new chain (specs in previous post). So is that what your talking about above about they could be slipping? It seemed to slide on ok onto the keyed slots. Is there anything to look for?
An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
Thanks for the advice Volker.
I'm fairly mechanically minded so I am confident all the troubleshooting I've done so far points to the rear casset and the chain or something to do with either of them, chain tension or hub fitting.
Ive got a deore hub on there that's about 6 months old, but I've given a bit of a beeting. I've got a brande new lx casset on there with the new chain (specs in previous post). So is that what your talking about above about they could be slipping? It seemed to slide on ok onto the keyed slots. Is there anything to look for?
You controlled the adjustment of the rear derailleur at all? When you shift up and down take care that the upper pulley allways stay in line with the sprocket above them. I do this adjustments at first without chain and cable, the two screws marked with High and Low, the screws limit the movement up and down, if the derailleur at lowest position the upper pulley should be in line with the smalest sprocket above them vice versa at the highest position should be in line with the largest. sprocket.http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/cycling/techdocs/en/bikecomponents/RD/SI-RD-M530_v2_m56577569830563514.pdf
An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
Thanks for the advice Volker.
I'm fairly mechanically minded so I am confident all the troubleshooting I've done so far points to the rear casset and the chain or something to do with either of them, chain tension or hub fitting.
Ive got a deore hub on there that's about 6 months old, but I've given a bit of a beeting. I've got a brande new lx casset on there with the new chain (specs in previous post). So is that what your talking about above about they could be slipping? It seemed to slide on ok onto the keyed slots. Is there anything to look for?
You controlled the adjustment of the rear derailleur at all? When you shift up and down take care that the upper pulley allways stay in line with the sprocket above them. I do this adjustments at first without chain and cable, the two screws marked with High and Low, the screws limit the movement up and down, if the derailleur at lowest position the upper pulley should be in line with the smalest sprocket above them vice versa at the highest position should be in line with the largest. sprocket. http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/cycling/techdocs/en/bikecomponents/RD/SI-RD-M530_v2_m56577569830563514.pdf
An other thing is sometimes defect freewheelbodys on shimano rear hubs, a very common defect on Deore hubs, sometimes on new hubs it has the same effect, when all other things are new and perfect adjusted. Check all possibilitys systematically.
Thanks for the advice Volker.
I'm fairly mechanically minded so I am confident all the troubleshooting I've done so far points to the rear casset and the chain or something to do with either of them, chain tension or hub fitting.
Ive got a deore hub on there that's about 6 months old, but I've given a bit of a beeting. I've got a brande new lx casset on there with the new chain (specs in previous post). So is that what your talking about above about they could be slipping? It seemed to slide on ok onto the keyed slots. Is there anything to look for?
