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Making your own bicycle decals and graphics

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Cycling Equipment
Published
28 May 2008
Last activity
30 May 2008
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Andre Jute
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  1. Making your own bicycle decals and graphics
    by Andre jute
    http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html

    You can easily make your own bicycle decals by laser-printing black-
    and-white, block-colour or full-colour computer-copied or -created art
    in reverse onto thin transparent plastic, and using spray glue to fix
    it to your bike.

    For vintage or other restoration decals you can take them off the bike
    (take photos first!) and stick the bits flat on paper, scan the paper
    into a computer and retouch in a paint programme. Or scan them out of
    a book, or import them from the net and use the scan as a template to
    recreate the original.

    New art can be made on your computer in any vector programme like
    Adobe Illustrator or page layout programme like QuarkXPress (there are
    cheaper programmes of each type). "Art" is simply type or illustration
    or a mix of the two.

    You want to glue the plastic down print side next to your bike, so the
    art must be reversed, otherwise it won't read right. After you've made
    the art, flip it over in the computer programme, so it reads
    backwards. Save the art as a PDF and copy it onto a CD or e-mail it as
    an attachment to your laser-printing location.

    You can get colour laser printing done at your library and on your
    high street.

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Cut out your decals with the aid of a ruler or if round with a small
    tin for a guide. Forget freehand cutting, even if you have printed
    cutting guides on your artwork. For a clean cut, use a new disposable
    surgical scalpel which you can buy at a graphic art supply store.
    Spray with clear clue (also from the art supply store) and set
    carefully on the bike. Overspray with clear lacquer.

    Getting the decal on straight is easier if you first smooth it onto
    paper, topside down. The guide paper should be precut to align with
    some feature of the bike. Spray decal and paper alike with glue, set
    on bike in alignment, carefully peel the paper off while leaving the
    decal. Put a cloth over the decal to smooth it down. The cloth will
    pick up excess glue. Don't try to wipe it all off -- the excess will
    ramp up to the thin edge of the film and make the decal look
    integrated with the bike, as if stamped and painted into the metal.

    This method can also be used for much larger graphics, such as are
    normally airbrushed onto the bike. You merely design the graphic in
    sections shorter than whatever limits the printing you can get done
    (laser paper capability, size of thin plastic pockets available to
    you) and after printing assemble the sections on the bike.

    Copyright © Andre Jute 2008. May be freely reprinted on not-for-profit
    sites on the net as long as this notice remains with the article. All
    other use requires permission.

  2. Andre Jute said:

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Isn't there a substantial risk of the plastic melting inside the laser
    printer, not unlike with OH film that is not specifically suitable for
    copier/laser printer use?

    Copier/printer labels in transparent plastic are also one possibility,
    if you can get them. (I have yet to find a convenient supplier, though
    I haven't been looking for one all that much, either.)

  3. (A R:nen) said:
    Andre Jute said:

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Isn't there a substantial risk of the plastic melting inside the laser
    printer, not unlike with OH film that is not specifically suitable for
    copier/laser printer use?

    Hasn't happened to me yet but everything is possible. It might be that
    the sheet of 120gsm bond (or two of 80 to 90 gsm, common fax and
    copier weight) I always insert into the plastic pocket as a stiffener
    also acts as a heat sink.

    Quoted message said:

    Copier/printer labels in transparent plastic are also one possibility,
    if you can get them. (I have yet to find a convenient supplier, though
    I haven't been looking for one all that much, either.)

    Someone has also written to me offlist to say that cheap OHP film is
    thin and limp enough to work reasonably well, though not thin enough
    not to leave an edge. I haven't seen any of that but the film I found
    too thick was left over after a consulting job with people who don't
    count pennies. He did make the good point though that in a resto job
    it dinna matter, because the originals were usually printed on pretty
    thick film and there always was a visible edge.

    I haven't seen transparent labels but I'll keep a lookout. Thanks for
    the idea.

    Andre Jute
    http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html

  4. Andre Jute said:

    Making your own bicycle decals and graphics
    by Andre jute
    http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html

    You can easily make your own bicycle decals by laser-printing black-
    and-white, block-colour or full-colour computer-copied or -created art
    in reverse onto thin transparent plastic, and using spray glue to fix
    it to your bike.

    For vintage or other restoration decals you can take them off the bike
    (take photos first!) and stick the bits flat on paper, scan the paper
    into a computer and retouch in a paint programme. Or scan them out of
    a book, or import them from the net and use the scan as a template to
    recreate the original.

    New art can be made on your computer in any vector programme like
    Adobe Illustrator or page layout programme like QuarkXPress (there are
    cheaper programmes of each type). "Art" is simply type or illustration
    or a mix of the two.

    You want to glue the plastic down print side next to your bike, so the
    art must be reversed, otherwise it won't read right. After you've made
    the art, flip it over in the computer programme, so it reads
    backwards. Save the art as a PDF and copy it onto a CD or e-mail it as
    an attachment to your laser-printing location.

    You can get colour laser printing done at your library and on your
    high street.

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Cut out your decals with the aid of a ruler or if round with a small
    tin for a guide. Forget freehand cutting, even if you have printed
    cutting guides on your artwork. For a clean cut, use a new disposable
    surgical scalpel which you can buy at a graphic art supply store.
    Spray with clear clue (also from the art supply store) and set
    carefully on the bike. Overspray with clear lacquer.

    Getting the decal on straight is easier if you first smooth it onto
    paper, topside down. The guide paper should be precut to align with
    some feature of the bike. Spray decal and paper alike with glue, set
    on bike in alignment, carefully peel the paper off while leaving the
    decal. Put a cloth over the decal to smooth it down. The cloth will
    pick up excess glue. Don't try to wipe it all off -- the excess will
    ramp up to the thin edge of the film and make the decal look
    integrated with the bike, as if stamped and painted into the metal.

    This method can also be used for much larger graphics, such as are
    normally airbrushed onto the bike. You merely design the graphic in
    sections shorter than whatever limits the printing you can get done
    (laser paper capability, size of thin plastic pockets available to
    you) and after printing assemble the sections on the bike.

    Quoted message said:


    Copyright © Andre Jute 2008. May be freely reprinted on not-for-profit
    sites on the net as long as this notice remains with the article. All
    other use requires permission.

    Just be 100% POSITIVE the film you are using is LASER COMPATIBLE,
    because the fuser in a laser runs very hot and non-laser-compatible
    films WILL melt - and if they gum up the fuser or the feed rollers,
    YOUR NAME IS DIRT!!!
    ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

  5. On 28 May 2008 16:47:36 +0300, [email hidden] (A R:nen)

    Quoted message said:
    Andre Jute said:

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Isn't there a substantial risk of the plastic melting inside the laser
    printer, not unlike with OH film that is not specifically suitable for
    copier/laser printer use?

    Copier/printer labels in transparent plastic are also one possibility,
    if you can get them. (I have yet to find a convenient supplier, though
    I haven't been looking for one all that much, either.)

    Avery and Simon Marketing both make clear laser labels. They are self
    sticking on the wrong side, but I'm sure you could "wash" the adhesive
    off after the label is applied, or just top-print the label and coat
    with clear laquer/polyurethane/whatever to protect.
    ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

  6. clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada said:

    On 28 May 2008 16:47:36 +0300, [email hidden] (A R:nen)

    Quoted message said:

    Andre Jute <[email hidden]> writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    film (what thelaserprinting service will reach for automatically) is
    too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    thelaserprinter tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Quoted message said:

    Isn't there a substantial risk of the plastic melting inside thelaser
    printer, not unlike with OH film that is not specifically suitable for
    copier/laserprinter use?

    Quoted message said:

    Copier/printerlabelsin transparent plastic are also one possibility,
    if you can get them. (I have yet to find a convenient supplier, though
    I haven't been looking for one all that much, either.)

    Avery and Simon Marketing both make clearlaserlabels. They are self
    sticking on the wrong side, but I'm sure you could "wash" the adhesive
    off after the label is applied, or just top-print the label and coat
    with clear laquer/polyurethane/whatever to protect.
    ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Greeting's!

    I work with a label company http://www.onlinelabels.com we have
    crystal clear laser labels that would work perfect for this
    application. View all of our crystal clear laser label sizes at the
    following link http://www.onlinelabels.com/material_crystal_clear_laser_labels.htm

    The crystal clear material is polyester and has a permanent adhesive
    that will hold really well on a bicycle frame. I agree with the post
    above that you need to be sure to adjust your laser printers
    settings. I would start with a low heat setting such as the "standard
    paper" setting to reduce the chances of jamming in your printer. In
    most cases you will not see any jamming, but it's better to be safe
    than sorry.

    If you want to put an extra layer of protection of the label after
    it's printed I would suggest spraying the sheet after it's printed
    with Krylon "Preserve It" clear coat.

    Best of luck,

    Matt Hamilton
    www.OnlineLabels.com
    (888)575-2235

  7. Matt said:
    clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada said:

    On 28 May 2008 16:47:36 +0300, [email hidden] (A R:nen)
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Andre Jute <[email hidden]> writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
    > film (what thelaserprinting service will reach for automatically) is
    > too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
    > plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
    > Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
    > thelaserprinter tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
    > get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Isn't there a substantial risk of the plastic melting inside thelaser
    printer, not unlike with OH film that is not specifically suitable for
    copier/laserprinter use?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Copier/printerlabelsin transparent plastic are also one possibility,
    if you can get them. (I have yet to find a convenient supplier, though
    I haven't been looking for one all that much, either.)

    Quoted message said:

    Avery and Simon Marketing both make clearlaserlabels. They are self
    sticking on the wrong side, but I'm sure you could "wash" the adhesive
    off after the label is applied, or just top-print the label and coat
    with clear laquer/polyurethane/whatever to protect.
    ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**-Hide quoted text -

    Quoted message said:

    - Show quoted text -

    Greeting's!

    I work with a label companyhttp://www.onlinelabels.comwe have
    crystal clear laser labels that would work perfect for this
    application.  View all of our crystal clear laser label sizes at the
    following linkhttp://www.onlinelabels.com/material_crystal_clear_laser_labels.htm

    The crystal clear material is polyester and has a permanent adhesive
    that will hold really well on a bicycle frame.  I agree with the post
    above that you need to be sure to adjust your laser printers
    settings.  I would start with a low heat setting such as the "standard
    paper" setting to reduce the chances of jamming in your printer.  In
    most cases you will not see any jamming, but it's better to be safe
    than sorry.

    If you want to put an extra layer of protection of the label after
    it's printed I would suggest spraying the sheet after it's printed
    with Krylon "Preserve It" clear coat.

    Best of luck,

    Matt Hamiltonwww.OnlineLabels.com
    (888)575-2235

    Thanks for that, Mark. -- Andre Jute

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