Mangled Braze-on

citrusjim said:

I am hoping for some help here. I am planning on powder coating my
steel Lemond (2002 Buenos Aires) frame and was removing all the bits
and pieces and came across the braze ons that are under the barrell
adjusters on the down tube. It appeared that the post was threaded in
so I put a wrench on it to try to remove it. It seems that is was a
braze-on after all. I completly mangled it. Is this an easy fix at a
bike shop? Or, do I need a frame builder to replace this part. Any
help would be great. Thanks.

Since you're already repainting it, this would likely be an easy fix for
a framebuilder, or even a reasonably competent mechanic.

--

John ([email hidden])

"John Thompson" wrote: Since you're already repainting it, this would
likely be an easy fix for a framebuilder, or even a reasonably competent
mechanic.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
As long as you didn't distort the down tube itself.

Leo Lichtman said:

"John Thompson" wrote: Since you're already repainting it, this would
likely be an easy fix for a framebuilder, or even a reasonably competent
mechanic.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Quoted message said:

As long as you didn't distort the down tube itself.

Keep the heat on the braze-on and it will come off with minimal effect
on the tube, particularly if the builder used silver.

--

John ([email hidden])

AX KILLERS!!

hone depot carries bernzomatic aluminum brazing rod. after filing the
area using a clean file, the area is heated with standard bernz turbo
torch and propane green bottle. you kinda wave it at the tube heating
a wider area than necessary after practicing on another tube
prefereably owned by a friend or nabor. then apply the rodend to the
heated surface, it melts a drop, continue heating and the drop will
widen out. that's adhesion. drop the brazeon atop the solder and heat
the three components. preheat brazeon. presolder brazeon! get the
right side!!
when using the solder its a plus to spread the first drop over the
area. pick up a shop knife and knife the molten solder across the
receiving area, scrappung the molten aluminum solder onto the
receiving surface.
Aluminum normally does not accept solder as AL instantly or sooner
forms an oxide that prevents solder adhesion bit Bernz rod has a
component preventing that oxide formation. scrapping the surface with
the molten solder helps that reaction to occur.
try it. it seems foolproof!! others are more than welcome to write
disagreeables here but it does seem that if your frame is of nromal AL
tubing or worse then the propane heat levels should not affect the
tubing's structural properties for bicycle design parameters. maybe if
you have an Allez?

the bernz AL rod requires the propane's burning gas cone be kept above
the metal surface for highest possible soldering temp. remember the
dark blue cone is more unburned gas than hottest heat cone from the
burning gases.

John Thompson said:

On 2007-04-29, citrusjim <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Since you're already repainting it, this would likely be an easy fix for
a framebuilder, or even a reasonably competent mechanic.

Although most shops that offer frame repairs also offer only
traditional paints. Hahahahaha !! No soup for you!

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA