The WheelSmith tensiometer I got last week seems to work OK, but the instructions say it has to be applied away from the butted area.
Only problem is that on my rear wheels the hub is so big that there's not enough space between the non-butted area and where the spokes cross to fit the instrument.
I'm guessing the conversion factor just changes to something between the narrow diameter and the butted diameter. Does anybody have a fudge factor for this situation? ----------------------- PeteCresswell
"(Pete Cresswell)" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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The WheelSmith tensiometer I got last week seems to work OK, but the instructions say it has to be applied away from the butted area.
Only problem is that on my rear wheels the hub is so big that there's not
enough
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space between the non-butted area and where the spokes cross to fit the instrument.
I'm guessing the conversion factor just changes to something between the
narrow
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diameter and the butted diameter. Does anybody have a fudge factor for
this
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situation? ----------------------- PeteCresswell
I would suggest you forget accuracy and go for repeatability by measuring each spoke in the same way. High even tension is what you are after. While having the foot of the gauge on the thicker part of the spoke will throw the reading off, at least measuring all the spokes the same way should give similar readings if their tension is the same.
The Wheelsmith tensiometer I got last week seems to work OK, but the instructions say it has to be applied away from the butted area.
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Only problem is that on my rear wheels the hub is so big that there's not enough space between the non-butted area and where the spokes cross to fit the instrument.
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I'm guessing the conversion factor just changes to something between the narrow diameter and the butted diameter. Does anybody have a fudge factor for this situation?
Since there is no in-situ zero on this instrument, you cannot determine what the tension is over two spoke thicknesses, the thickness differences being larger than the measurement of interest. This was an obvious problem when I designed the instrument shown in "the Bicycle Wheel" that does this for every measurement.
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I would suggest you forget accuracy and go for repeatability by measuring each spoke in the same way. High even tension is what you are after. While having the foot of the gauge on the thicker part of the spoke will throw the reading off, at least measuring all the spokes the same way should give similar readings if their tension is the same.
That's not a good idea because it serves no purpose except to make wheel truing and tensioning extremely tedious. Since equalizing tension is a repetitive and individual process, it should go rapidly with quick feedback after adjustments. That is why this is done by the tone of plucked spokes for all but the seriously tone deaf, who are at a great disadvantage in this business. I wouldn't wish that hurdle on people who want to build wheels.
That's not a good idea because it serves no purpose except to make wheel truing and tensioning extremely tedious. Since equalizing tension is a repetitive and individual process, it should go rapidly with quick feedback after adjustments. That is why this is done by the tone of plucked spokes for all but the seriously tone deaf, who are at a great disadvantage in this business. I wouldn't wish that hurdle on people who want to build wheels.
I'm among the seriously tone-deaf.
But actually, when I did a wheel from scratch (i.e. backed all the nipples off until the spoke was even with the top of the nipple) then tightened each spoke an exact number of turns, dished the wheel the same way, and then trued it; the tensions came out within 5 kg of each other.
Seems to me like my main use of the tensiometer is to keep me from exceeding the rim manufacturer's spec and, when trying to true a wheel, to spot grossly out-of tension spokes. ----------------------- PeteCresswell
That's not a good idea because it serves no purpose except to make wheel truing and tensioning extremely tedious. Since equalizing tension is a repetitive and individual process, it should go rapidly with quick feedback after adjustments. That is why this is done by the tone of plucked spokes for all but the seriously tone deaf, who are at a great disadvantage in this business. I wouldn't wish that hurdle on people who want to build wheels.
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I'm among the seriously tone-deaf.
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But actually, when I did a wheel from scratch (i.e. backed all the nipples off until the spoke was even with the top of the nipple) then tightened each spoke an exact number of turns, dished the wheel the same way, and then trued it; the tensions came out within 5 kg of each other.
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Seems to me like my main use of the tensiometer is to keep me from exceeding the rim manufacturer's spec and, when trying to true a wheel, to spot grossly out-of tension spokes.
I hadn't seen any tension specifications given by rim manufacturers. Which rims have such information?
I hadn't seen any tension specifications given by rim manufacturers. Which rims have such information?
Mavic gives a figure of, in their words, "90-110 daN" - which I take to be about 100kg.
So I just check my wheels for tensions excess of that.
Interestingly, the wheel I did myself came out with the spokes within 5 kg of each other while the wheel I just picked up from the "professional wheelbuilder" (who said he had a "$300 tensiometer"...but didn't name the brand) had spoke tensions all over the place....so much variation that I'm already getting the urge to unscrew all the nipples and start over....but the problem is that wheel has DB spokes and my dinky little WheelSmith can't give an explicit reading because the distance is too short between the end of the butts and the crossover. OTOH, I could probably average the readings of the newly-built wheel and call that "100 kg"....
I've got a PDF that came from Mavic, but don't know the URL. I'll mail you a copy of the .PDF if you want. ----------------------- PeteCresswell
I hadn't seen any tension specifications given by rim manufacturers. Which rims have such information?
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Mavic gives a figure of, in their words, "90-110 daN" - which I take to be about 100kg.
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So I just check my wheels for tensions excess of that.
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Interestingly, the wheel I did myself came out with the spokes within 5 kg of each other while the wheel I just picked up from the "professional wheelbuilder" (who said he had a "$300 tensiometer"... but didn't name the brand) had spoke tensions all over the place... so much variation that I'm already getting the urge to unscrew all the nipples and start over... but the problem is that wheel has DB spokes and my dinky little WheelSmith can't give an explicit reading because the distance is too short between the end of the butts and the crossover. OTOH, I could probably average the readings of the newly-built wheel and call that "100 kg"...
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I've got a PDF that came from Mavic, but don't know the URL. I'll mail you a copy of the .PDF if you want.