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Modifying Vistalights

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
14 September 2003
Last activity
17 September 2003
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Gags
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  1. A mate of mine is a self confessed "anal retentive roadie" who is dead
    against riding anything other than a road bike. He has two identical frames
    ("Mausser" i think), one of which he uses to commute and one to race.

    He is also right into having all of his attachments as neat as possible and
    so recently he asked me to shorten one of his light leads. This was a
    pretty simple job......basically just cut out the "curly bit" in the middle
    of a standard Vistalight cable, re-solder wires, wrap with black heat
    shrink. It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells), up the frame and to the
    light.....looks really neat.

    He also asked me to see what I could do with an old Vistalight rear LED
    flasher (one of the rectangular ones with 5 LEDs and a yellow rubber cover
    on the switch) as he wanted it to be brighter. Basically he is going to
    mount it on his Zefal rear mud guard (One of the gucci curved ones) for use
    when commuting in the wet.

    Anyway, I went to Jaycar and bought 5 red LEDs at 4000mcd (only $1.00 each)
    and put them in tonight (not sure of beam angle but they are pretty tight).
    It is now retina burning bright (I am still seeing spots). I put it on
    outside and it throws a red "torch like" spot on the side of the house from
    at least 15 metres away. I am going to give it to him tomorrow and i reckon
    he is gonna love it.

    At Jaycar, they also had some 20,000 mcd red LEDs (the brightest I have ever
    come across in 5mm LEDs) but I think they have a forward voltage of over 3V.

    Might be the basis for my next home made rear light.....my only concern
    being that if it is too bright, it might draw the eye of drivers too much in
    my direction (like when you are riding single-track and actually look at a
    rock or ditch on the trail, you usually end up hitting it).

    Could be a good laugh as front lights for a "Stealth Mode" trip down some
    single-track though.

    Gags

  2. Interestingly, for car tail/brake lights there is ADR49 which specifies how
    bright they must be and at what angles they must throw light.

    For a bike the road rules just say "visable from 200m"

    Al.

    Gags said:

    A mate of mine is a self confessed "anal retentive roadie" who is dead
    against riding anything other than a road bike. He has two identical frames
    ("Mausser" i think), one of which he uses to commute and one to race.

    He is also right into having all of his attachments as neat as possible and
    so recently he asked me to shorten one of his light leads. This was a
    pretty simple job......basically just cut out the "curly bit" in the middle
    of a standard Vistalight cable, re-solder wires, wrap with black heat
    shrink. It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells), up the frame and to the
    light.....looks really neat.

    He also asked me to see what I could do with an old Vistalight rear LED
    flasher (one of the rectangular ones with 5 LEDs and a yellow rubber cover
    on the switch) as he wanted it to be brighter. Basically he is going to
    mount it on his Zefal rear mud guard (One of the gucci curved ones) for use
    when commuting in the wet.

    Anyway, I went to Jaycar and bought 5 red LEDs at 4000mcd (only $1.00 each)
    and put them in tonight (not sure of beam angle but they are pretty tight).
    It is now retina burning bright (I am still seeing spots). I put it on
    outside and it throws a red "torch like" spot on the side of the house from
    at least 15 metres away. I am going to give it to him tomorrow and i reckon
    he is gonna love it.

    At Jaycar, they also had some 20,000 mcd red LEDs (the brightest I have ever
    come across in 5mm LEDs) but I think they have a forward voltage of over 3V.

    Might be the basis for my next home made rear light.....my only concern
    being that if it is too bright, it might draw the eye of drivers too much in
    my direction (like when you are riding single-track and actually look at a
    rock or ditch on the trail, you usually end up hitting it).

    Could be a good laugh as front lights for a "Stealth Mode" trip down some
    single-track though.

    Gags

  3. "Gags" <drgagnon@nospam_ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells), up the frame and to the
    light.....looks really neat.

    How did you get the stick apart? I had a go at prying mine (a NiCd one)
    apart with a screwdriver, so that I could replace the cells with NiMH ones,
    but couldn't get the caps off.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  4. "Suzy Jackson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    How did you get the stick apart? I had a go at prying mine (a NiCd


    one)

    Quoted message said:

    apart with a screwdriver, so that I could replace the cells with NiMH


    ones,

    Quoted message said:

    but couldn't get the caps off.

    They are glued in. Squeezing the casing really hard
    with pliers seemed to crack the glue bond on mine
    and allowed me to pry the lid off with a screwdriver.
    Or you could put the 'cap end' in a vice - just below
    the black plastic end cap - and tighten until you hear
    a cracking noise. Don't crush the tube totally! ;-)

    Put something in between the pliers and the case,
    otherwise you will end up with plier teeth marks in
    the soft alu.

    hth
    hippy

  5. Gags said:

    A mate of mine is a self confessed "anal retentive roadie" who is
    dead against riding anything other than a road bike. He has two
    identical frames ("Mausser" i think), one of which he uses to commute
    and one to race.
    He is also right into having all of his attachments as neat as possible
    and so recently he asked me to shorten one of his light leads. This was
    a pretty simple job......basically just cut out the "curly bit" in the
    middle of a standard Vistalight cable, re-solder wires, wrap with black
    heat shrink. It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells), up the frame and to the
    light.....looks really neat.
    He also asked me to see what I could do with an old Vistalight rear LED
    flasher (one of the rectangular ones with 5 LEDs and a yellow rubber
    cover on the switch) as he wanted it to be brighter. Basically he is
    going to mount it on his Zefal rear mud guard (One of the gucci curved
    ones) for use when commuting in the wet.
    Anyway, I went to Jaycar and bought 5 red LEDs at 4000mcd (only $1.00
    each) and put them in tonight (not sure of beam angle but they are
    pretty tight). It is now retina burning bright (I am still seeing
    spots). I put it on outside and it throws a red "torch like" spot on the
    side of the house from at least 15 metres away. I am going to give it to
    him tomorrow and i reckon he is gonna love it.
    At Jaycar, they also had some 20,000 mcd red LEDs (the brightest I have
    ever come across in 5mm LEDs) but I think they have a forward voltage
    of over 3V.
    Might be the basis for my next home made rear light.....my only concern
    being that if it is too bright, it might draw the eye of drivers too
    much in my direction (like when you are riding single-track and actually
    look at a rock or ditch on the trail, you usually end up hitting it).
    Could be a good laugh as front lights for a "Stealth Mode" trip down
    some single-track though.
    Gags

    Hi Gags, Can i ask from where did you get the cells to re-pack the
    nightstick? Was it difficult or not really? Im thinking of doing the
    same thing...

    Cheers, Troy

    --

    Quoted message said:

    --------------------------<


    Posted via cyclingforums.com
    http://www.cyclingforums.com

  6. "troyq" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi Gags, Can i ask from where did you get the cells to re-pack the
    nightstick? Was it difficult or not really? Im thinking of doing the
    same thing...

    From the dimensions of the battery pack, I'd lay a bet that they're "sub-c"
    size. These batteries are commonly used in radio control cars and cordless
    power tools, and are available from hobby shops or Jaycar.

    Quite a while ago, I modified an old blackburn mini pump (after seeing the
    visalight batteries) along the same lines. See
    http://groups.google.com.au/groups?q=%22suzy+jackson%22&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=51Ay9.24750%245u4.75813%40news-server.bigpond.net.au&rnum=3

    Regards,

    Suzy (who will attack her vistalight battery tomorrow with the vice at work)

  7. Suzy is right.....They are sub-C cells and you can get them from Jaycar for
    about $9 each from memory (you need five for a nightstick). They have
    solder tabs on each end so it is a relatively simple job to solder them up.
    I didn't have any heatshrink big enough to put around the batteries before
    slotting them back into the tube, so I ended up with a tightly wrapped layer
    of electrical tape.

    As for how to get the caps off......I have no idea......my mate gave me the
    tube with the caps already off. If you are going to remove the caps, only
    take out the top one (ie the one with the connector in it). I actually
    replaced his connector too with one bought from Jaycar as his old one was
    cactus.

    BTW Suzy.....love the home made battery stick.......wonder if I could make
    one out of a full size pump for a 12V battery.......now that would be a good
    "dog stick".

    Cheers,

    Gags

    "Suzy Jackson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "troyq" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi Gags, Can i ask from where did you get the cells to re-pack the
    nightstick? Was it difficult or not really? Im thinking of doing the
    same thing...

    From the dimensions of the battery pack, I'd lay a bet that they're


    "sub-c"

    Quoted message said:

    size. These batteries are commonly used in radio control cars and


    cordless

    Quoted message said:

    power tools, and are available from hobby shops or Jaycar.

    Quite a while ago, I modified an old blackburn mini pump (after seeing the
    visalight batteries) along the same lines. See


    http://groups.google.com.au/groups?q=%22suzy+jackson%22&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&o
    e=UTF-8&selm=51Ay9.24750%245u4.75813%40news-server.bigpond.net.au&rnum=3

    Quoted message said:


    Regards,

    Suzy (who will attack her vistalight battery tomorrow with the vice at


    work)

    Quoted message said:


  8. Gags said:

    It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells),

    Can you give further details on this ?

    What cells did you use ?
    Can you still use the standrad charger ?

    cheers,
    -kt

  9. "kingsley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Gags said:

    It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells),

    Can you give further details on this ?

    What cells did you use ?
    Can you still use the standrad charger ?

    cheers,
    -kt

    I used 3000mAh NiMh Sub-C cells with solder tabs attached that I bought from
    Jaycar (They don't actually have a brand written on them). The standard
    charger is no problems to use, you just need to allow longer if you have
    discharged the battery further.

    From memory, I think that the wall plug type charger that my mate has is
    rated at 500mA........If you were to drain the battery completely (not
    recommended as this shortens battery life, should turn off lights as soon as
    you notice them getting dimmer), You would need 6 hours charge time to fully
    recharge it. (ie. 6 x 500mAh = 3000mAh - that is assuming 100% efficiency
    which doesn't happen). In reality, you should allow some extra charge to
    make up for any inefficiencies in the charging process (heat mainly).

    Also can do rough calculation depending on run time......10Watt light at 6V
    draws 10/6 = 1.66 Amps = 1666 mA. So if you run this light for 1 hour, you
    have used up 1666mAh of battery capacity and so I would then put battery on
    charge for about 4 hours = 2000mAh, which should ensure that the battery is
    fully charged without causing too much damage from overcharging.

    The chargers provided are "dumb" chargers in that they don't sense when a
    battery is fully charged. I am currently working out a design for a smart
    charger that can basically charge a NiMh battery pack of any voltage using
    an initial fast charge, that then switches to a trickle charge once battery
    is fully charged. This will allow me to simply hook up my battery and leave
    it connected until I am ready to use it next time. I am planning on using a
    PIC as the basis of my charrger.

    I know that you can buy chargers like this off the shelf (pretty expensive
    though), but where is the fun in that????

    Cheers,

    Gags

  10. "Gags" <drgagnon@nospam_ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "kingsley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Gags said:

    It now runs straight from the "Nightstick" (that I recently
    repacked for him using 3000mAh NiMh cells),

    Can you give further details on this ?

    What cells did you use ?
    Can you still use the standrad charger ?

    cheers,
    -kt

    I used 3000mAh NiMh Sub-C cells with solder tabs attached that I bought


    from

    Quoted message said:

    Jaycar (They don't actually have a brand written on them). The standard
    charger is no problems to use, you just need to allow longer if you have
    discharged the battery further.

    From memory, I think that the wall plug type charger that my mate has is
    rated at 500mA........If you were to drain the battery completely (not
    recommended as this shortens battery life, should turn off lights as soon


    as

    Quoted message said:

    you notice them getting dimmer), You would need 6 hours charge time to


    fully

    Quoted message said:

    recharge it. (ie. 6 x 500mAh = 3000mAh - that is assuming 100% efficiency
    which doesn't happen). In reality, you should allow some extra charge to
    make up for any inefficiencies in the charging process (heat mainly).

    Also can do rough calculation depending on run time......10Watt light at


    6V

    Quoted message said:

    draws 10/6 = 1.66 Amps = 1666 mA. So if you run this light for 1 hour,


    you

    Quoted message said:

    have used up 1666mAh of battery capacity and so I would then put battery


    on

    Quoted message said:

    charge for about 4 hours = 2000mAh, which should ensure that the battery


    is

    Quoted message said:

    fully charged without causing too much damage from overcharging.

    The chargers provided are "dumb" chargers in that they don't sense when a
    battery is fully charged. I am currently working out a design for a smart
    charger that can basically charge a NiMh battery pack of any voltage using
    an initial fast charge, that then switches to a trickle charge once


    battery

    Quoted message said:

    is fully charged. This will allow me to simply hook up my battery and


    leave

    Quoted message said:

    it connected until I am ready to use it next time. I am planning on using


    a

    Quoted message said:

    PIC as the basis of my charrger.

    I know that you can buy chargers like this off the shelf (pretty expensive
    though), but where is the fun in that????

    Cheers,

    Gags

    Is this the battery? (May have to cut and paste URL...)

    http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB1710&CATID=&keywords=3000mah&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

    STOCK-CODE: SB1710 - Limited RRP: $12.95
    Qty 1+ $12.95 Qty 10+ $11.35 Qty 20+ $10.35

    4/3 A 3000mAH Ni-Mh

    As used in laptop battery packs.
    Size 67 (L) x 17 (dia)mm
    Charging: Standard 600mA for 7 hours
    Fast 3000mA for 1.2 hours
    Supplied with solder tags

    Are they 1.5V?

    Thanks,

    Tim

  11. Gags said:

    BTW Suzy.....love the home made battery stick.......wonder if I could make
    one out of a full size pump for a 12V battery.......now that would be a good
    "dog stick".

    A few months ago I was looking at the aluminium mouldings(?)
    (extrusions?) in the hardware store. They have some fairly
    neat alu pipe that might be ideal for a pump-sized battery.
    Not sure how you would seal the ends though.

    I wouldn't mind a battery that would last the week with the
    15 watter. It's not the charging that's the problem, it's
    remembering to do it. Funny the way the power always drops out
    coming down the hill just before the pot-holes...

    -kt

  12. "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Is this the battery? (May have to cut and paste URL...)


    http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB1710&CATID=&keywords=3000mah&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

    Quoted message said:

    Size 67 (L) x 17 (dia)mm

    Nope. Five of these in a line would be 335mm long, a tad longer (and
    skinnier) than the vistalight tube.

    On the other hand, these ones:

    http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB2447&CATID=18&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=583

    Will do quite well. Sub C 2700mAh, 43mm long, 23mm round. $9 each.

    FWIW, radio control toy cars use Sub-C batteries up to 3000mAh, such as:

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHE7&P=0

    Though you pay a real premium for that extra few hundred mAh.

    Quoted message said:

    Are they 1.5V?

    No, they're 1.2V.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  13. "kingsley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Gags said:

    BTW Suzy.....love the home made battery stick.......wonder if I could


    make

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    one out of a full size pump for a 12V battery.......now that would be a


    good

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "dog stick".

    A few months ago I was looking at the aluminium mouldings(?)
    (extrusions?) in the hardware store. They have some fairly
    neat alu pipe that might be ideal for a pump-sized battery.
    Not sure how you would seal the ends though.

    I wouldn't mind a battery that would last the week with the
    15 watter. It's not the charging that's the problem, it's
    remembering to do it. Funny the way the power always drops out
    coming down the hill just before the pot-holes...

    The nice bit about the pump was that it had a nice mount to mount it to my
    bike. With a simple aluminium tube, you'd have to engineer the lot.
    Perhaps a water bottle battery would make more sense for you? You can stick
    ten 4.5Ah C cells in a water bottle. That would drive your 15W light for a
    bit over 3.5 hours.

    I only did the modified mini pump because I had one kicking around (complete
    with mounting hardware) and it was _just_ the right size.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  14. Quoted message said:

    The chargers provided are "dumb" chargers in that they don't sense
    when a battery is fully charged. I am currently working out a design
    for a smart charger that can basically charge a NiMh battery pack of
    any voltage using an initial fast charge, that then switches to a
    trickle charge once battery is fully charged. This will allow me to
    simply hook up my battery and leave it connected until I am ready to
    use it next time.

    A wide variety of fully automatic chargers of this sort are available
    from hobby stores for remote controlled gadgets. You can pay anything
    from about $70 to over $300 for one that will handle Pb, NiCad, NiMH and
    Lion/LiPoly. The one we have ($75) will charge any size packs of NiCad
    and NiMH from 1 to 10 cells at a user-selectable rate from about 100mA
    to ~6A. Needs a (separate) 13.6v supply...

    You might find the design more challenging than you think. These
    things are usually microprocessor controlled and use a variably pulsed
    charging strategy to detect the battery size, type, charging response,
    and also monitor battery temperature...

  15. Oops.....Suzy is right.....I did use the 2700mAh batteries as per the link
    below.

    My mate was keen for the 3000mAh ones (from a camera battery store I think),
    but they were $14 each and so the cost - benefit ratio was too high in the
    end.

    Gags

    "Suzy Jackson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Is this the battery? (May have to cut and paste URL...)



    http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB1710&CATID=&keywords=3000mah&
    SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&
    pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Size 67 (L) x 17 (dia)mm

    Nope. Five of these in a line would be 335mm long, a tad longer (and
    skinnier) than the vistalight tube.

    On the other hand, these ones:


    http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB2447&CATID=18&keywords=&SPECI
    AL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=xxxxxxxxxx&Keyword2=xxxxxxxxxx&pageNumbe
    r=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=583

    Quoted message said:


    Will do quite well. Sub C 2700mAh, 43mm long, 23mm round. $9 each.

    FWIW, radio control toy cars use Sub-C batteries up to 3000mAh, such as:

    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHE7&P=0

    Though you pay a real premium for that extra few hundred mAh.

    Quoted message said:

    Are they 1.5V?

    No, they're 1.2V.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  16. "Glen F" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The chargers provided are "dumb" chargers in that they don't sense
    when a battery is fully charged. I am currently working out a design
    for a smart charger that can basically charge a NiMh battery pack of
    any voltage using an initial fast charge, that then switches to a
    trickle charge once battery is fully charged. This will allow me to
    simply hook up my battery and leave it connected until I am ready to
    use it next time.

    A wide variety of fully automatic chargers of this sort are available
    from hobby stores for remote controlled gadgets. You can pay anything
    from about $70 to over $300 for one that will handle Pb, NiCad, NiMH and
    Lion/LiPoly. The one we have ($75) will charge any size packs of NiCad
    and NiMH from 1 to 10 cells at a user-selectable rate from about 100mA
    to ~6A. Needs a (separate) 13.6v supply...

    You might find the design more challenging than you think. These
    things are usually microprocessor controlled and use a variably pulsed
    charging strategy to detect the battery size, type, charging response,
    and also monitor battery temperature...


    Glen....I am actually an Electrical Engineer and so I have a pretty good
    idea of how I am going to approach it. I am going to use a basic voltage
    regulator to get a constant current (probably at least 1 to 1.5 Amps as most
    of the batteries that I want to charge are above 2700 mAh capacity). I will
    then use a PIC with an in-built Analog to Digital convertor to periodically
    measure the voltage accross the battery pack and compare it to the previous
    measurement. A switch will select between NiCd and NiMh and then I will
    code the PIC with the appropriate algorithms for each type. Once the change
    in voltage reduces to zero for NiMh or the voltage decreases for NiCd, the
    PIC will then pulse the output down to an acceptable trickle current.

    I reckon that the whole thing will cost me less than $50, and like I
    said.......where is the fun in buying something off the shelf????

    cheers,

    Gags

  17. Quoted message said:

    I reckon that the whole thing will cost me less than $50, and
    like I said.......where is the fun in buying something off the
    shelf????

    Yeah, I know what you mean. I run a set of home made Fat Hippy
    lights with a home made auto charger for the SLA. Just thought
    some here might be interested what's available in another market
    - that they might not be aware of.

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