Alan Braggins said:In article <[email hidden]>, Simon
Bennett said:
Quoted message said:Does this sound reasonable? How buckled does a rim
have to be to be scrapped?
More buckled than you described in your earlier post. A single
popped spoke is not enough to make a rim unusable.
I wouldn't expect a single popped spoke to put a wheel out of true
enough that the brakes couldn't be adjusted to cope with it either
unless they
are double pivot calipers, so maybe there is more to it than that.
Not my experience. OK my bike is old (circa 1990), but decent parts for its
date; Wolber (I think) rims on Suntour hubs.
Last year I broke a single rear spoke on the driven side. No idea why it
went. That was enough to make the rim catch cantilever brakes on each
revolution, and slacking the brakes off to clear resulted in effectively no
brakes.
The bike was still ridable though, with only a single sided momentary brake
catch causing minimal drag. So, I rode to a bike shop, bought a spoke, and
rode 5 miles home to fix it. I rode slower than usual, avoided rear
braking, took extra care to avoid potholes and had a strict "no jumping
raised kerbs" rule (several on a designated bikes around here).
Since the DIY replacement of spoke (and some deliberate over-tensioning,
squeezing of spokes together, etc., then releasing back to true), the wheel
has been fine, including some stony bridleways, potholes, kerbs, cobblestone
streets, etc..
Quoted message said:Certainly it is possible to locally buckle a rim in such a way that
it is obvious it is buckled without having to untension it first to
see. But if
it was buckled like that then I'd expect Dave to have seen that too,
before getting it to the bike shop.
Agreed.
If the OP keeps suffering spoke failures, then I think the way out is
finding a good wheel builder (recommendation being the only way) and getting
a wheel made to suit.
- Nigel
--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/