I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different pitches - (1 inch included?)
The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide] variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but winter-proof?
I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to create a ultra-durable drivetrain.
Or I am I just being silly... ?
Yes.
A complete singlespeed drivetrain (DMR ring, SRAM PC48 chain, Shimano DX sprocket) only costs about GBP30. The only way to get a real improvement is to get an o-ring chain, which will be about 45GBP just for the chain for a 428 (1/2" x 5/16"😉 chain. You'll probably have to shave the spider or rings to get your two 3/32" rings 1/8" or less apart, although the sprocket end should work fine with just a 3mm spacer between two sprockets. Now you have a very heavy and draggy 95GBP drivetrain Still with me? You'll need a motorcycle duty chain breaker/riveter too, at about 87GBP (prices from B&C, the UK motorcyclists' first stop for drivetrain components)
Sure it will last a long time, if you keep it clean and properly lubed. But so would the 6 complete bicycle drivetrains you could have bought for the same money, and your bike will be more fun to ride without those extra 2lb of transmission holding you back.
Kinky Cowboy*
*Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts Your milage may vary
I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to create a ultra-durable drivetrain....
If you want an "ultra-durable" single-speed or fixed gear drivetrain, what you need is a full chain case to keep road grit off the chain, as it is the particles (typically quartz) that are harder than the chain steel that cause most of the wear. As has been noted several times before, the exposed drive chain on a motorcycle will need to be replaced many times before the internal chain (of similar construction) that connects the engine to the transmission needs to be replaced.
I guess I won't be trying that then. And thankyou for your wisdom!
- Bernie
Well, shucks...
If you wanted to try some ultra-tuff bike parts, you could use the drivetrain off of a BMX "freestyle" bike. Some of them use 3/16" thick sprockets and appropriate chain. That's extreme overkill for your use, though.
I'd have to agree that the best solution is standard chain, enclosed in a chaincase. I've extracted chains from chaincases that have been seen occasional use for 20 years (judging by the condition of the rest of the bike). The chain and sprockets were gummy with old oil, but not worn.
I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different pitches - (1 inch included?)
The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide] variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but winter-proof?
Shops who indulge the guys who ride twenty inch and grind (Slide down railing/coping hopefully on the peg but often on the chain) stock some pretty meaty chain. There are 'phat' versions of 1/2 x 1/8 and then 1/2 x 3/16. Some are available in full roller chain, BTW. We are not experts but even those who dabble like us will have chain out to 13.2mm ( Ten Speed chain is 5.9mm)
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
I guess I won't be trying that then. And thankyou for your wisdom!
- Bernie
Well, shucks...
If you wanted to try some ultra-tuff bike parts, you could use the drivetrain off of a BMX "freestyle" bike. Some of them use 3/16" thick sprockets and appropriate chain. That's extreme overkill for your use, though.
The chain to use is the KMC 415H. Something like 13.7mm chain width... Too bad no o-rings though.
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Quoted message said:
Hi - (I'm new here), I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on whether it may be possible/useful/practical/worthwhile to use a motorcycle chain or some other heavy duty chain on a *blanked-out cassette* single-speed bike to create a ultra-durable drivetrain. Since narrower chains are generally less durable, I'm assuming a motorbike chain would go for ages (or your entire life?), and they seem to be available in hundreds of different pitches - (1 inch included?) The mental picture I have would be to sandwich 2/3 identical chainrings together or to place them either side of the spider leaving an empty gap inbetween such that the effective width matches the plate seperation of the larger chain. On the rear, I was thinking several sandwiched sprockets (the singlespeed pronounced-tooth [not hyperglide] variety that install on to Shimano freehub bodies) would build up the required thickness needed. More weight, more friction etc, but winter-proof? Or I am I just being silly... ?
Just silly. If all you are concerned with is chain durability, there is an easier way to go that will give you long chain life. Since you are going single speed, it is very easy to just add a chain box to your bike. Liberally lube your new chain and your chain box will make your chain last a really long time. -------------- Alex
