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need help with handlebar misalignment

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Cycling Equipment
Published
7 June 2004
Last activity
8 June 2004
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Boatman
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  1. I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now my
    handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the right of
    the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my knees and
    force it back into position or must I loosen something first
    and then retighten?

    Thanks!

    Boatman

  2. Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now
    my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the right
    of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my knees
    and force it back into position or must I loosen something
    first and then retighten?

    Are you really sure this is a question you need to ask?

    --
    Perre
    "Don't really fell like flaming today, but just couldn't resist a discrete
    one"

  3. Per Elmsäter said:
    Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now
    my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the
    right of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my
    knees and force it back into position or must I loosen
    something first and then retighten?

    Are you really sure this is a question you need to ask?

    What do you mean? I wouldn't have asked the question here if
    I didn't need some help!

    Boatman

  4. Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now
    my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the right
    of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my knees
    and force it back into position or must I loosen something
    first and then retighten?

    Sorry you got flamed on this, it's a perfectly reasonable
    question...I don't know what that guy was thinking.

    I'd say to try the brace-between-the-knees approach first,
    this often works.

    If it feels as if it's requiring excessive force, loosening
    the stem is called for.

    Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need a
    6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    off for access.)

    Don't overtighten it when you're done, it is good for the
    bars to be able to turn a bit when the bike falls, this can
    reduce the chance of damaging them.

    See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    Sheldon "Oooomph!" Brown +----------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough! |
    | --BOB Simon |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------
    --+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  5. Sheldon Brown said:
    Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now
    my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the
    right of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my
    knees and force it back into position or must I loosen
    something first and then retighten?

    Sorry you got flamed on this, it's a perfectly reasonable
    question...I don't know what that guy was thinking.

    I'd say to try the brace-between-the-knees approach first,
    this often works.

    If it feels as if it's requiring excessive force,
    loosening the stem is called for.

    Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need a
    6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    off for access.)

    Don't overtighten it when you're done, it is good for the
    bars to be able to turn a bit when the bike falls, this
    can reduce the chance of damaging them.

    See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    Sheldon "Oooomph!" Brown +------------------------------------------------------
    -------+

    Thanks, Sheldon, for your advice. It was just what I was
    looking for!

    Boatman

  6. Sheldon Brown said:
    Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and now
    my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the
    right of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between my
    knees and force it back into position or must I loosen
    something first and then retighten?

    Sorry you got flamed on this, it's a perfectly reasonable
    question...I

    Why are you sorry?

    Quoted message said:

    don't know what that guy was thinking.

    Of course you know what this guy was thinking. I thought it
    was such a basic question that if he'd stop to think just a
    little bit first he'd figure it all out himself, no matter
    how untechnical he was.

    --
    Perre
    "Everybody has his superiority feeling days you know"

  7. Sheldon Brown ([email hidden]) wrote:
    : Boatman wrote:

    : > I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and
    : > now my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to the
    : > right of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel between
    : > my knees and force it back into position or must I
    : > loosen something first and then retighten?

    : Sorry you got flamed on this, it's a perfectly reasonable
    : question...I don't know what that guy was thinking.

    : I'd say to try the brace-between-the-knees approach first,
    : this often works.

    : If it feels as if it's requiring excessive force,
    : loosening the stem is called for.

    : Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need a
    : 6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    : down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    : probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    : off for access.)

    Hi Sheldon,

    OK, I'm curious - I would've said "then whack the bolt with
    a mallet to free the wedge". Is there some reason for not
    doing this?

    -Ken

    : Don't overtighten it when you're done, it is good for the
    : bars to be able to turn a bit when the bike falls, this
    : can reduce the chance of damaging them.

    : See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    : Sheldon "Oooomph!" Brown +------------------------------------------------------
    : -------+
    : | If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough!
    : | | --BOB Simon |
    : +---------------------------------------------------------
    : ----+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    : 9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-
    : find parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    : sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  8. Quoted message said:

    OK, I'm curious - I would've said "then whack the bolt
    with a mallet to free the wedge". Is there some reason for
    not doing this?

    -Ken

    *Never* whack bearing races. It angers the gods.

    There is another type of expander used on threaded stems
    which is shaped like a cup with two opposing ridges. This
    almost always needs whackage. However, the C40 has never
    used this type, just the modern wedge-shaped one.

  9. I said:

    : Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need
    : a 6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    : down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    : probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    : off for access.)

    Quoted message said:

    : See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    Ken Ferschweiler said:

    OK, I'm curious - I would've said "then whack the bolt
    with a mallet to free the wedge". Is there some reason for
    not doing this?

    It is usually not necessary on wedge type stems. Back when
    stems used a conical expander instead of a slanted wedge,
    this was usually needed.

    This issue is addressed in the Web link I provided.

    Sheldon "Inertial Impact Alignment Instrument" Brown +--------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | I'll be traveling in France and England throughout the
    | month | of June. I hope to remain online, but don't know
    | what sort | of 'Net access I'll be able to get... |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------
    ------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  10. I said:

    : Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need
    : a 6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    : down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    : probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    : off for access.)

    Quoted message said:

    : See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    Ken Ferschweiler said:

    OK, I'm curious - I would've said "then whack the bolt
    with a mallet to free the wedge". Is there some reason for
    not doing this?

    It is usually not necessary on wedge type stems. Back when
    stems used a conical expander instead of a slanted wedge,
    this was usually needed.

    This issue is addressed in the Web link I provided.

    Sheldon "Inertial Impact Alignment Instrument" Brown +--------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | I'll be traveling in France and England throughout the
    | month | of June. I hope to remain online, but don't know
    | what sort | of 'Net access I'll be able to get... |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------
    ------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  11. "Boatman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:yz0xc.54741$3x.8977@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:
    Sheldon Brown said:
    Boatman said:

    I dumped my Raleigh C40 yesterday during an event and
    now my handlebars are pointing about 5-10 degrees to
    the right of the wheel. Can I just brace the wheel
    between my knees and force it back into position or
    must I loosen something first and then retighten?

    Sorry you got flamed on this, it's a perfectly
    reasonable question...I don't know what that guy was
    thinking.

    I'd say to try the brace-between-the-knees approach
    first, this often works.

    If it feels as if it's requiring excessive force,
    loosening the stem is called for.

    Your bike has a traditional wedge-type stem. You'll need
    a 6 mm Allen wrench to loosen the wedge bolt, which runs
    down through the vertical part of the stem. (There's
    probably a rubber cap hiding the bolt head, just pry it
    off for access.)

    Don't overtighten it when you're done, it is good for
    the bars to be able to turn a bit when the bike falls,
    this can reduce the chance of damaging them.

    See also: sheldonbrown.comhandsup

    Sheldon "Oooomph!" Brown +------------------------------------------------------
    -------+

    Thanks, Sheldon, for your advice. It was just what I was
    looking for!

    Boatman

    I went down in a crit on Tues and re-aligned with my knees.
    On Sat a rider's rear quick release caught a spoke on my
    front wheel near the nipple and gouged my rim. I'm told the
    look on my face was priceless as I quickly contemplated road
    rash on top of road rash. Luckily, I didn't go down. The
    wheel didn't even move that much, but the bars were out of
    alignment again. I considered whether having the wedge
    somewhat loose was a benefit here, but tightened it after
    deciding that it shouldn't have moved so easily. Not sure of
    the answer. Sheldon?

    --Art

  12. --On Monday, June 07, 2004 5:51 PM -0400 Sheldon Brown

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon "Inertial Impact Alignment Instrument" Brown

    You must mean a "convincing tool." For convincing things
    that they should fit into a given location.

    Or perhaps you mean the mobster of the tool chest. For
    making offers that can't be refused.

    Mike Mechanical Engineering 2006, Carnegie Mellon University
    Remove nospam to reply.

  13. Sheldon Brown said:

    +---------------------------------------------------------
    --------+
    | I'll be traveling in France and England throughout
    | the month | of June. I hope to remain online, but
    | don't know what sort | of 'Net access I'll be able to
    | get... |
    +---------------------------------------------------------
    --------+

    Um, which bike are you taking?

  14. I .sigged:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    +---------------------------------------------------------
    --------+
    | I'll be traveling in France and England throughout
    | the month | of June. I hope to remain online, but
    | don't know what sort | of 'Net access I'll be able to
    | get... |
    +---------------------------------------------------------
    --------+

    Quoted message said:

    Erik Freitag asked:

    Quoted message said:

    Um, which bike are you taking?

    We won't be bringing bikes, got a lot of ground to cover and
    a lot of friends to visit in not all that much time.

    We're hoping to be able to borrow bikes here and there and
    do some local riding.

    Sheldon "Not Specifically A Bike Trip" Brown +--------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | This message has been sent to you using recycled
    | electrons | exclusively. Please do not discard them
    | after use, | send them along and help conserve these
    | irreplaceable | sub-atomic resources for future
    | generations. |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------
    ------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  15. Art M said:

    ...the bars were out of alignment again. I considered
    whether having the wedge somewhat loose was a benefit
    here, but tightened it after deciding that it shouldn't
    have moved so easily. Not sure of the answer.

    Now you're trying to define that edge between "tight enough
    so it stays put" and "loose enough so it moves when you want
    it to move." That is a gray area. I'll be amazed if someone
    can come up with an accurate specification for that
    parameter.

    Maybe we could define a certain amount of torque applied to
    the stem before it slips? But how would we come up with a
    value for that torque? I think that value would be just a
    guess, and the answer might depend on rider weight and
    other factors.

    Sorry, I have no definitive answer to your question. I don't
    think anyone has that answer.

    --
    Dave dvt at psu dot edu

  16. dvt said:

    Now you're trying to define that edge between "tight
    enough so it stays put" and "loose enough so it moves when
    you want it to move." That is a gray area. I'll be amazed
    if someone can come up with an accurate specification for
    that parameter.

    Maybe we could define a certain amount of torque applied
    to the stem before it slips? But how would we come up with
    a value for that torque? I think that value would be just
    a guess, and the answer might depend on rider weight and
    other factors.

    Sorry, I have no definitive answer to your question. I
    don't think anyone has that answer.

    It really isn't all that critical.

    I used to keep the bars on my mountain bike deliberately
    loose so that I could easily rotate them 90 degrees for more
    compact parking in my very crowded cellar.

    Once in a while they'd get knocked askew by 10-15 degrees
    while riding, but it never caused a crash.

    Sheldon "You Don't Need Numerical Values For Everything"
    Brown +--------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | I'll be traveling in France and England throughout the
    | month | of June. I hope to remain online, but don't know
    | what sort | of 'Net access I'll be able to get... |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------
    ------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
    9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find
    parts shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

  17. On Tue, 08 Jun 2004 12:55:38 -0400, Sheldon Brown
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon "You Don't Need Numerical Values For
    Everything" Brown

    Dear Sheldon,

    Would that be 5-10% of everything? Or higher?

    Carl Fogel

  18. Quoted message said:

    On Tue, 08 Jun 2004 12:55:38 -0400, Sheldon Brown
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon "You Don't Need Numerical Values For
    Everything" Brown

    Dear Sheldon,

    Would that be 5-10% of everything? Or higher?

    Carl Fogel

    +------------------------------------------------+
    | According to the latest official figures, | 43% of all
    | statistics are totally worthless. |
    +------------------------------------------------+ Harris
    Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX
    617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
    shipped Worldwide captainbike.comcaptainbike.com
    sheldonbrown.comsheldonbrown.com

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