New Bike, Reputable LBS, So what is the Problem?

[Curtis L. Russell]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 03:41:32 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In a peculiar way I resent that remark. I fail to understand why the
>purchase of a $1000 bike ought to entitle a customer to any less effort to
>make the bike roadworthy than a $5000 bike.

Have to agree here. Other than the example I just used of a true
custom bike (picking frame size, components, color etc.). the more one
spends GENERALLY corresponds to knowing more about bikes. Bike racers
for instance have probably talked to death their choice with team
mates and other racers, so they don't need a lot of input from the
wrench at the shop on what they want. Or how to set it up.

$ 1,000 is now an entry level bike for many, so the hand holding
should be greater.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

 

[Badger_South]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 03:30:39 GMT, Glm <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 02:12:24 GMT, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Sounds like a loose crank arm and all it needs is a bolt tightened.
>> About 60
>> seconds worth of work. Will the shop replace the crank when it is
>> damaged by
>> riding with it loose? Most shops offer free adjustments on new bikes
>> after a
>> little use.
>> Bill
>>
>
>"Bring it in after a couple of hundred miles and we'll give it a good
>going over!" was the sales pitch.
>
>The mechanic tried to tighten the crank arm but couldn't move it. Played
>around with the rear derailleur limiter instead - seeing him put the bike
>on a stand and turn the pedal a fewe revolutions really impreesed me...

Tell the mechanic you'd like him to either:

a) go out and ride it around and see the problem himself, or
b) go out and ride around next to you so you can demo the problem.

>Either way, no improvement whatsoever. Could be the pedals, I suppose.
>
>Regardless, still at a loss as to why, with over half a dozen employees in
>the shop and not a single customer, they thought it would take a week to
>do anything to it!
>
>Anyway, I received my answer from the newsgroup, viz., that I am not being
>an obdurate old ass by asking them to take a look at it.

-B

 

[khill]

Glm wrote:
>
> I have a 3-week old bike, a Roubaix Elite 27, that I purchased from
> what is supposedly a reputable dealer in Manhattan.
<snip>
> Any thoughts on how to handle what I assume is a common challenge for
> people who buy new bikes would be appreciated. Thank you.
>
> Glm

Buy a book like "Zinn and the Art of Roadbike Maintenance" or use a site
like www.parktool.com and learn to diagnose and fix problems yourself.

Bikes aren't complicated machines and anyone with basic reading skills,
patience, and a little dexterity can learn to fix them. You'll derive
more satisfaction from being self-sufficient than from supporting
businesses which don't take your problems seriously. Plus, you never
have to wait for some shop to open to resolve an issue. Just buy the
tools you need as you go along and save money (and, in my experience
time) by ordering parts and supplies online.

- khill

 

[rick]

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Glm" <[email protected]> wrote in message
newspscbr8zo1ipeop9@artemis...
> >
> > I have a 3-week old bike, a Roubaix Elite 27, that I purchased from what
> > is supposedly a reputable dealer in Manhattan.
> >
> > I've tried pretty hard to support the LBS, buying quite a few
accessories
> > there, not moaning that they forget my club dicount, etc. It's
expensive,
> > but convenient and, well, these shops have to make ends meet, so why
> > not?! One tries to establish some goodwill.
> >
> > A couple of days ago, the left crank started to 'jolt' whenever it
passed
> > the eleven o'clock position. Not on every turn, but let's say, six
times
> > out of ten and right across the cassette and chain-rings (i.e., not
> > specific to any gear).
> >
> > I waited until I thought the LBS would not be busy then took the bike in
> > for inspection. It was quite clear that no one wanted to look at it.
> > Eventually managed to get a mechanic to spin the rear wheel and fiddle
> > with the derailleur adjustment. I explained that I failed to see how
that
> > would stop the left-hand crank from jolting (it happened at the same
crank
> > position, regardless of gear or chain position, etc.). No joy: they
> > clearly weren't interested in helping further. Said I could leave the
> > bike there for ten days so that they could do a 'full check-up'.
> >
> > And I certainly wasn't asking them to tighten cables and polish the seat
> > for me. My only concern was this crank/bracket anomaly.
> >
> > So, at the same time I'm paying over the odds for lubricants, cleaners
and
> > a cadence monitor for my Polar device (another $70). Still, no interest
> > in looking at the bike.
> >
> > I assume it's the LBS's responsibility to sort this out, but I am
> > reluctant to press the issue as the last thing I want is a p*ssed-off
> > mechanic playing around hastily with the bottom bracket on a bike rhar's
> > cost me well in excess of $2,500 (including bits and pieces, tax, etc.).
> >
> > I'd be happy to go and pay a few dollars for another shop to sort this
> > out, but, frankly, I have no idea which places are good. And I cannot
> > guarantee I'll get any better service!?
> >
> > So, my question is: will my LBS refuse to touch the bike if I have
another
> > shop look at this particular problem? And, if not, does anyone know a
> > decent LBS in Manhattan who could sort this out in a few hours.
> >
> > Any thoughts on how to handle what I assume is a common challenge for
> > people who buy new bikes would be appreciated. Thank you.
> >
> > Glm
>
> Sounds like a loose crank arm and all it needs is a bolt tightened. About
60
> seconds worth of work. Will the shop replace the crank when it is damaged
by
> riding with it loose? Most shops offer free adjustments on new bikes after
a
> little use.
> Bill


Might be a stupid suggestion but why not trying the bike manufacturer ?
Call them and explain the bad representation and the bad service you get
from their dealer, you never know !!

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> >It's the total package that makes something worthwhile or not. I might
have
> >"101 ****ling little complaints" about my wife, but I wouldn't trade her
for
> >the world. Give me 10 seconds to contemplate that before hitting the
send
> >key. OK, I'll stick with that one.
>
> For us that don't work at bike shops, we spend a lot more time with
> our wives. Well, most of us do. 101 ****ling issues, even as
> hyperbole, is a bit more than should be for even the process of buying
> a custom bike from the ground up. And this isn't the case here.
>
> If there is another bike shop in the area that is competent, then
> maybe its time to take a look there.

My point, which I didn't make very well, was that one can look hard enough
and find a whole lot of little things wrong with anything. Some people make
a career of it, and are very rarely (if ever) happy, while others, facing
the same situation, find reasons to enjoy life. I'm not suggesting that
there isn't a very serious issue regarding the gentlemen's bike and that
shop! I'm just saying that, if we look hard enough, we can find fault with
anything.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Doug Purdy]

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sounds like a loose crank arm and all it needs is a bolt tightened. About
60
> seconds worth of work. Will the shop replace the crank when it is damaged
by
> riding with it loose? Most shops offer free adjustments on new bikes after
a
> little use.

I didn't think it was possible to tighten a loose crank arm. After riding
enough to know it happens across all gears it would need replacement. Any
bike person would know that. Something funny is going on in that shop that
they know they have to replace the crank but each person is trying their
best not be the messenger shot by the manager/owner. Or is it something
about the person who asembled the bike?

He needs to talk to the manager/owner.

Doug

 

[Mark]

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> This thread reminds me of something that people might want to think about
> when buying a new bike.
>
> There's nothing at all wrong with asking the salesperson who you see, after
> buying the bike, if something isn't quite right mechanically. Maybe even an
> introduction to the service manager if you like. Then, if something does
> come up, I'll bet you'll be taken a lot more seriously when you say "I was
> told when I bought the bike that I should see Mark Benson if there were any
> problems. Is he around?"
>
> The manner in which they answer this request might be quite telling!
>
> Ultimately, the most expensive bike you can buy is the one that sits,
> unused, in the garage.
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Hi Mike, I've found in quite a few instances, that the "Salesman" is
the owner of the shop, and many times too, is the chief mechanic who
oversees all operations. Mark D.

 

[tcmedara]

Glm <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> However, one must weigh against this principle (and I detest being
> ripped off or exposed to incompetence or, worse still, indolence or
> carelessness) the fact that I want to go out and ride my bike; and
> that, if I don't ride my bike, I'm going to crack open another bottle
> of wine, which will for sure cost more than getting this problem
> resolved at a second LBS!

Well said, I'm often quite willing to pay extra for good support or just to
bring the PIA factor down. Everything has costs.

Tom

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Hi Mike, I've found in quite a few instances, that the "Salesman" is
> the owner of the shop, and many times too, is the chief mechanic who
> oversees all operations. Mark D.

Quite right, and nothing wong with a shop like that. Many years ago that
would have been me. But the original poster referenced a shop that had two
locations and quite a few employees.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > This thread reminds me of something that people might want to think
about
> > when buying a new bike.
> >
> > There's nothing at all wrong with asking the salesperson who you see,
after
> > buying the bike, if something isn't quite right mechanically. Maybe
even an
> > introduction to the service manager if you like. Then, if something
does
> > come up, I'll bet you'll be taken a lot more seriously when you say "I
was
> > told when I bought the bike that I should see Mark Benson if there were
any
> > problems. Is he around?"
> >
> > The manner in which they answer this request might be quite telling!
> >
> > Ultimately, the most expensive bike you can buy is the one that sits,
> > unused, in the garage.
> >
> > --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> > www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
> Hi Mike, I've found in quite a few instances, that the "Salesman" is
> the owner of the shop, and many times too, is the chief mechanic who
> oversees all operations. Mark D.

 

[Glm]

On Fri, 06 Aug 2004 19:25:43 GMT, Glm <[email protected]> wrote:

> So, my question is: will my LBS refuse to touch the bike if I have
> another shop look at this particular problem? And, if not, does anyone
> know a decent LBS in Manhattan who could sort this out in a few hours.
>
> Any thoughts on how to handle what I assume is a common challenge for
> people who buy new bikes would be appreciated. Thank you.
>
> Glm

Thank you for all the responses to date. A brief update: I found that the
problem persisted, but it seemed only whilst I was exerting little effort
upon the pedals.

Went back to the LBS. Another gentleman said he'd have a mechanic open up
the bottom bracket on the left-hand side. I observed that it might make
sense to play around with the pedals first - Look 396 - and see whether
that helped.

Mechanic vanished with the bike for a few minutes. Returned observing
that he had "tightened things up".

Then, the chap who'd refused to help the previous day sauntered over,
"Still not right, eh?"

Glm: "Nope. As I mentioned yesterday. But, your mechanic just tightened
up the epdals and crank, so I'll take it around the block and see. As I
observed when we last spoke, I doubt it's anything serious. Just want to
be sure."

Chap [sporting inane prepubescent grin]: "Wow, it's weird. You know, I
had some weird squeaking noise on my bike; and it just vanished as if by
magic! I just couldn't believe it?!"

Glm: "How interesting [sic]?!"

Chap: "Mind if I take it out and see how it's running?"

Glm: "Be my guest. I seem to recall suggesting that you do that
yesterday!"

[Exit. Five minutes later.]

Chap: "Seems ok to me."

Glm: "Glad to hear it. I'll take it a few times around the Park [Central,
that is] and let you know!'

Seems that much, if not all, of the 'play' that seemed to be in the crank
has been addressed. I never thought that it was a huge problem. Just
wanted someone to take 60 seconds to look at it, which has now been done.
No idea why it was so hard in the first place. Again, thanks to all in
the NG for your help.

 

[Mark]

Glm <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<opscllq9peipeop9@artemis>...
> On Fri, 06 Aug 2004 19:25:43 GMT, Glm <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > So, my question is: will my LBS refuse to touch the bike if I have
> > another shop look at this particular problem? And, if not, does anyone
> > know a decent LBS in Manhattan who could sort this out in a few hours.
> >
> > Any thoughts on how to handle what I assume is a common challenge for
> > people who buy new bikes would be appreciated. Thank you.
> >
> > Glm
>
> Thank you for all the responses to date. A brief update: I found that the
> problem persisted, but it seemed only whilst I was exerting little effort
> upon the pedals.
>
> Went back to the LBS. Another gentleman said he'd have a mechanic open up
> the bottom bracket on the left-hand side. I observed that it might make
> sense to play around with the pedals first - Look 396 - and see whether
> that helped.
>
> Mechanic vanished with the bike for a few minutes. Returned observing
> that he had "tightened things up".
>
> Then, the chap who'd refused to help the previous day sauntered over,
> "Still not right, eh?"
>
> Glm: "Nope. As I mentioned yesterday. But, your mechanic just tightened
> up the epdals and crank, so I'll take it around the block and see. As I
> observed when we last spoke, I doubt it's anything serious. Just want to
> be sure."
>
> Chap [sporting inane prepubescent grin]: "Wow, it's weird. You know, I
> had some weird squeaking noise on my bike; and it just vanished as if by
> magic! I just couldn't believe it?!"
>
> Glm: "How interesting [sic]?!"
>
> Chap: "Mind if I take it out and see how it's running?"
>
> Glm: "Be my guest. I seem to recall suggesting that you do that
> yesterday!"
>
> [Exit. Five minutes later.]
>
> Chap: "Seems ok to me."
>
> Glm: "Glad to hear it. I'll take it a few times around the Park [Central,
> that is] and let you know!'
>
> Seems that much, if not all, of the 'play' that seemed to be in the crank
> has been addressed. I never thought that it was a huge problem. Just
> wanted someone to take 60 seconds to look at it, which has now been done.
> No idea why it was so hard in the first place. Again, thanks to all in
> the NG for your help.

Hi, Glad you've got this problem solved. I assume you have some sort
of warrantee with a $2500 Bike, correct? If should any more problems
arise during your warrantee perios, I would consider taking to the
other shop under warantee period, even if it's all the way across
town. In the meantime, I'd find yourself another shop to deal with,
and spend your money at.

I'm sure someone here can recommend a good shop in your area. Mark

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Hi, Glad you've got this problem solved. I assume you have some sort
> of warrantee with a $2500 Bike, correct? If should any more problems
> arise during your warrantee perios, I would consider taking to the
> other shop under warantee period, even if it's all the way across
> town. In the meantime, I'd find yourself another shop to deal with,
> and spend your money at.

Manufacturer's warranties cover defects, not assembly issues. A different
shop won't be reimbursed by the manufacturer for taking care of poor
assembly by the shop that sold the product. This illustrates a point that
many don't understand... the quality of the shop that assembles & services
(30-day check etc) your bike is far more important than relatively small
differences in price.

It's often a good idea to shop for a good place to buy a bike, before
shopping for a particular brand or model.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Glm <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<opscllq9peipeop9@artemis>...
> > On Fri, 06 Aug 2004 19:25:43 GMT, Glm <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > So, my question is: will my LBS refuse to touch the bike if I have
> > > another shop look at this particular problem? And, if not, does
anyone
> > > know a decent LBS in Manhattan who could sort this out in a few hours.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts on how to handle what I assume is a common challenge for
> > > people who buy new bikes would be appreciated. Thank you.
> > >
> > > Glm
> >
> > Thank you for all the responses to date. A brief update: I found that
the
> > problem persisted, but it seemed only whilst I was exerting little
effort
> > upon the pedals.
> >
> > Went back to the LBS. Another gentleman said he'd have a mechanic open
up
> > the bottom bracket on the left-hand side. I observed that it might make
> > sense to play around with the pedals first - Look 396 - and see whether
> > that helped.
> >
> > Mechanic vanished with the bike for a few minutes. Returned observing
> > that he had "tightened things up".
> >
> > Then, the chap who'd refused to help the previous day sauntered over,
> > "Still not right, eh?"
> >
> > Glm: "Nope. As I mentioned yesterday. But, your mechanic just
tightened
> > up the epdals and crank, so I'll take it around the block and see. As I
> > observed when we last spoke, I doubt it's anything serious. Just want
to
> > be sure."
> >
> > Chap [sporting inane prepubescent grin]: "Wow, it's weird. You know, I
> > had some weird squeaking noise on my bike; and it just vanished as if by
> > magic! I just couldn't believe it?!"
> >
> > Glm: "How interesting [sic]?!"
> >
> > Chap: "Mind if I take it out and see how it's running?"
> >
> > Glm: "Be my guest. I seem to recall suggesting that you do that
> > yesterday!"
> >
> > [Exit. Five minutes later.]
> >
> > Chap: "Seems ok to me."
> >
> > Glm: "Glad to hear it. I'll take it a few times around the Park
[Central,
> > that is] and let you know!'
> >
> > Seems that much, if not all, of the 'play' that seemed to be in the
crank
> > has been addressed. I never thought that it was a huge problem. Just
> > wanted someone to take 60 seconds to look at it, which has now been
done.
> > No idea why it was so hard in the first place. Again, thanks to all in
> > the NG for your help.
>
> Hi, Glad you've got this problem solved. I assume you have some sort
> of warrantee with a $2500 Bike, correct? If should any more problems
> arise during your warrantee perios, I would consider taking to the
> other shop under warantee period, even if it's all the way across
> town. In the meantime, I'd find yourself another shop to deal with,
> and spend your money at.
>
> I'm sure someone here can recommend a good shop in your area. Mark

 

[Chris BeHanna]

On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 07:04:24 +0000, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

>> Hi, Glad you've got this problem solved. I assume you have some sort
>> of warrantee with a $2500 Bike, correct? If should any more problems
>> arise during your warrantee perios, I would consider taking to the
>> other shop under warantee period, even if it's all the way across
>> town. In the meantime, I'd find yourself another shop to deal with,
>> and spend your money at.
>
> Manufacturer's warranties cover defects, not assembly issues. A different
> shop won't be reimbursed by the manufacturer for taking care of poor
> assembly by the shop that sold the product. This illustrates a point that
> many don't understand... the quality of the shop that assembles & services
> (30-day check etc) your bike is far more important than relatively small
> differences in price.
>
> It's often a good idea to shop for a good place to buy a bike, before
> shopping for a particular brand or model.

Crud. There aren't that many bike shops near me. Finding one
with a clueful wheel (wo)man looks challenging. The shop where I
bought the bike didn't properly tension or stress relieve my wheels
prior to delivery, and the shop near home trued my rear wheel for me
(after I had to tighten a spoke during a ride), but again didn't make
sure enough tension was in the wheel, and I had to stop to tighten
spokes THREE TIMES during yesterday's ride (and the wheel is
remarkably straight, for all of that, after my emergency spoke wrench
work).

It's looking like I'll have to buy tools and rebuild the wheel
myself (as I search for a place that has Jobst's book in stock--it's
apparently out of print).

--
Chris BeHanna
Software Engineer (Remove "allspammersmustdie" before responding.)
[email protected]
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Crud. There aren't that many bike shops near me. Finding one
> with a clueful wheel (wo)man looks challenging. The shop where I
> bought the bike didn't properly tension or stress relieve my wheels
> prior to delivery, and the shop near home trued my rear wheel for me
> (after I had to tighten a spoke during a ride), but again didn't make
> sure enough tension was in the wheel, and I had to stop to tighten
> spokes THREE TIMES during yesterday's ride (and the wheel is
> remarkably straight, for all of that, after my emergency spoke wrench
> work).

How old (and how much mileage) is the wheel? And what type of bike is it
from? In the case of a stock wheel, if it's still within the manufacturer's
warranty, it may very well be covered. Wheels aren't considered to be an
item that a shop properly (or improperly) "assembles" and thus would be
taken care of by the manufacturer in a worst-possible case.

> It's looking like I'll have to buy tools and rebuild the wheel
> myself (as I search for a place that has Jobst's book in stock--it's
> apparently out of print).

Is Jobst's book really out of print? I know we received some copies not
that long ago; I think some of the distributors still have some in stock.
Even if your wheels are fine, it's always a good idea to learn just how your
bike works and what to do if something goes wrong. One word of advice
though- the first wheel you work on shouldn't be on your nice bike. Things
don't always go quite the way they're supposed to the first time you try
something, plus you'll approach it too tentatively if you're concerned about
damaging an expensive piece of equipment. Practice first on some old junker
wheel, and you'll find it super-easy to deal with your nicer ones.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Chris BeHanna" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 07:04:24 +0000, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>
> >> Hi, Glad you've got this problem solved. I assume you have some sort
> >> of warrantee with a $2500 Bike, correct? If should any more problems
> >> arise during your warrantee perios, I would consider taking to the
> >> other shop under warantee period, even if it's all the way across
> >> town. In the meantime, I'd find yourself another shop to deal with,
> >> and spend your money at.
> >
> > Manufacturer's warranties cover defects, not assembly issues. A
different
> > shop won't be reimbursed by the manufacturer for taking care of poor
> > assembly by the shop that sold the product. This illustrates a point
that
> > many don't understand... the quality of the shop that assembles &
services
> > (30-day check etc) your bike is far more important than relatively small
> > differences in price.
> >
> > It's often a good idea to shop for a good place to buy a bike, before
> > shopping for a particular brand or model.
>
> Crud. There aren't that many bike shops near me. Finding one
> with a clueful wheel (wo)man looks challenging. The shop where I
> bought the bike didn't properly tension or stress relieve my wheels
> prior to delivery, and the shop near home trued my rear wheel for me
> (after I had to tighten a spoke during a ride), but again didn't make
> sure enough tension was in the wheel, and I had to stop to tighten
> spokes THREE TIMES during yesterday's ride (and the wheel is
> remarkably straight, for all of that, after my emergency spoke wrench
> work).
>
> It's looking like I'll have to buy tools and rebuild the wheel
> myself (as I search for a place that has Jobst's book in stock--it's
> apparently out of print).
>
> --
> Chris BeHanna
> Software Engineer (Remove "allspammersmustdie" before
responding.)
> [email protected]
> I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.
>

 

[Frederic Briere]

Mike Jacoubowsky <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is Jobst's book really out of print? I know we received some copies not

Amazon has been listing it as OOP for as long as I remember. Maybe it's
still available elsewhere? (FWIW, I just checked and couldn't find it
on B&N either.)


--
Frederic Briere <*> [email protected]

=> <[email protected]> IS NO MORE: <http://www.abacomsucks.com> <=

 

[Chris BeHanna]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 07:49:48 +0000, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

>> Crud. There aren't that many bike shops near me. Finding one
>> with a clueful wheel (wo)man looks challenging. The shop where I
>> bought the bike didn't properly tension or stress relieve my wheels
>> prior to delivery, and the shop near home trued my rear wheel for me
>> (after I had to tighten a spoke during a ride), but again didn't make
>> sure enough tension was in the wheel, and I had to stop to tighten
>> spokes THREE TIMES during yesterday's ride (and the wheel is
>> remarkably straight, for all of that, after my emergency spoke wrench
>> work).
>
> How old (and how much mileage) is the wheel?

Three months, about 800 miles.

> And what type of bike is it from?

It's an Alex ALX330 from a 2003 Specialized Allez Elite 27.

> In the case of a stock wheel, if it's still within the manufacturer's
> warranty, it may very well be covered. Wheels aren't considered to be an
> item that a shop properly (or improperly) "assembles" and thus would be
> taken care of by the manufacturer in a worst-possible case.

Thus I'd get a machine-built wheel with the exact same problem.
:-(

>> It's looking like I'll have to buy tools and rebuild the wheel
>> myself (as I search for a place that has Jobst's book in stock--it's
>> apparently out of print).
>
> [...practice on a cheap wheel first...]

Fortunately, my 20-odd-year-old Huffy 626 is hanging from the
rafters, with a pair of such wheels at my disposal.

--
Chris BeHanna
Software Engineer (Remove "allspammersmustdie" before responding.)
[email protected]
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

 

[Patrick Lamb]

On 16 Aug 2004 08:06:08 -0500, Frederic Briere <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Mike Jacoubowsky <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Is Jobst's book really out of print? I know we received some copies not
>
>Amazon has been listing it as OOP for as long as I remember. Maybe it's
>still available elsewhere? (FWIW, I just checked and couldn't find it
>on B&N either.)

I picked one up last summer (and used it to build a wheel this
winter). I think it was at a Performance brick-and-mortar; they don't
seem to have it on their web site. If you can't get a copy from Mike,
you might try Sheldon Brown's web site at
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html -- much less theory, but
still a good way to build a wheel.

Pat

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