Newbie Questions...

"John Wordsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

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Sorry if any of these seem idiotic, but I have just purchased a new bike

and

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would like to ask a couple of questions...

1./ How much 'side to side' movement would you consider on a wheel for it to be untrue enough to
return the bike and get new rims? After checking

the

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bike, I think that there is 1 (possibly 2)mm or so variation in the side

of

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the rim. Is this considered ok?

A rim doesn't need to be replaced unless it is severely bent, tacoed, cracked or just worn out by
the brakes. A wheel can be way out of true and still be brought back. With the bike being new I'm
gonna guess the wheels are machine built and not tensioned very well. I'd have them properly
tensioned, stress relieved and trued.

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2./ For future reference - how much does the process of 'truing' cost?

For me nothing as I build my own wheels but I wouldn't expect it would be much over $20.

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3./ With the wheels being slightly untrue - how much gap should I leave between the rim and the
brake pads? As little as possible?

Just open them up until they don't rub. But you want to leave a ~2mm gap when the wheel is true
again. When you adjust your brakes turn the barrel adjuster at the lever out about 5 or 6 turns so
that if the wheel gets whacked out on a ride you can screw the adjuster in a open the pads a bit to
get you home.

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Again, apologies if these seem annoying - I just like to check my new

stuff

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while I still have the chance to do something about it 🙂.

Not at all. You spent good money on a ride and it should be right.

Mike

"John Wordsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Sorry if any of these seem idiotic, but I have just purchased a new bike

and

Quoted message said:

would like to ask a couple of questions...

1./ How much 'side to side' movement would you consider on a wheel for it to be untrue enough to
return the bike and get new rims? After checking

the

Quoted message said:

bike, I think that there is 1 (possibly 2)mm or so variation in the side

of

Quoted message said:

the rim. Is this considered ok?

2./ For future reference - how much does the process of 'truing' cost?

3./ With the wheels being slightly untrue - how much gap should I leave between the rim and the
brake pads? As little as possible?

Again, apologies if these seem annoying - I just like to check my new

stuff

Quoted message said:

while I still have the chance to do something about it 🙂.

Cheers, --John

1) This condition can usually be corrected by tightening / loosening spokes. No need to get new
rims unless you crack or dent the rim or wear out the braking surfaces.

2) $10 or free here: sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.htmlOpen ↗

3) 1mm's fine

--
DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing. The rest I've just wasted.

Thank you both to your answers - they're just what I needed.

Now, I just have to figure out what I should adjust the rear suspension to (which they kindly forgot
to even mention the existance of in the 'generic' manual) and I'll be ready to go - yay! 🙂

Thanks again!

"John Wordsworth" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Thank you both to your answers - they're just what I needed.

Now, I just have to figure out what I should adjust the rear suspension to (which they kindly
forgot to even mention the existance of in the

'generic'

Quoted message said:

manual) and I'll be ready to go - yay! 🙂

Thanks again!

What bike and shock?

Mike

Michael Dart said:

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Now, I just have to figure out what I should adjust the rear suspension to (which they kindly
forgot to even mention the existance of in the

Preload it so you got about 20% sack (That it the shocks compreses about 20% when you sit on the
bike - eventually get someone to measure while you sit on it). If you are a heavy or a very light
rider and the shock is equiped with a spring you may need another spring but hold on that till you
have ridden some and gotten a feel for it. Note don't EVER thingten springs to much - just what
yopu can do with your hands an overtighten spring that is compressed further when riding can
virtualy explode!

As for rebound it's a matter of taste but for starters go with something like this. Stand next to
your bike and compress the rear end by leaning on the saddel, when releasing it should pop up
slightly slower than just doing it freely.

Kind regards

Bruno

iddqdATworldonline.dk said:

Michael Dart wrote:

[snip]

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As for rebound it's a matter of taste but for starters go with something like this. Stand next to
your bike and compress the rear end by leaning on the saddel, when releasing it should pop up
slightly slower than just doing it freely.

Or ride off a curb. The bike should bounce up as quickly as possible, but not bob back down so you
get a double bounce.

Phil