Old Rear hub = durable front hub?

[[email protected]]

Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
a 121mm OLN Maillard Atom screw-on hub off eBay (a drunken purchase, I
didn't need it, but only £5) and noticed that you can respace it down
to 110mm by removing the big right-hand spacing nut and the washers
between the locknut and the cones (is bearing adjustment still do-able
without these washers?). The wheel will still need a tiny bit of dish
to make way for the threaded section.

Is it OK to grind away some material from the axle so that it fits into
the small front dropouts? Does it matter where I remove the material -
from one edge only or trimmed all around? If so, then is it still okay
to do this with a hollow axle (I would prefer to replace the solid axle
with a cut-down hollow one so I can have a scewer). In practice, will
ruining the axle threads at these two points prevent me removing the
cones?

Are there any other hurdles?

Thanks,
- Bernie Sluzalek

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

[email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
> a 121mm OLN Maillard Atom screw-on hub off eBay (a drunken purchase, I
> didn't need it, but only £5) and noticed that you can respace it down
> to 110mm by removing the big right-hand spacing nut and the washers
> between the locknut and the cones (is bearing adjustment still do-able
> without these washers?). The wheel will still need a tiny bit of dish
> to make way for the threaded section.


Instead of doing all that, I'll sell you a front hub, spaced at the
proper 100mm, for 4 pounds.
>
> Is it OK to grind away some material from the axle so that it fits into
> the small front dropouts? Does it matter where I remove the material -
> from one edge only or trimmed all around? If so, then is it still okay
> to do this with a hollow axle (I would prefer to replace the solid axle
> with a cut-down hollow one so I can have a scewer). In practice, will
> ruining the axle threads at these two points prevent me removing the
> cones?
>
> Are there any other hurdles?
>
> Thanks,
> - Bernie Sluzalek

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the offer! But I already have a couple spare front hubs.
Nevertheless, it's not about money-saving or the urget need for a front
hub but rather finding a use for *this* hub. And I would actually enjoy
'doing all that' - it's no chore. A mini-project, nothing more.

It fits in the dropouts fine with a good margin with the said washers
removed (I didn't measure, 100mm not 110mm?).

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 06:50:33 -0800, autumnbernie wrote:

> Thanks for the offer! But I already have a couple spare front hubs.
> Nevertheless, it's not about money-saving or the urget need for a front
> hub but rather finding a use for *this* hub. And I would actually enjoy
> 'doing all that' - it's no chore. A mini-project, nothing more.
>
> It fits in the dropouts fine with a good margin with the said washers
> removed (I didn't measure, 100mm not 110mm?).

Yes, fronts are 100mm. 110 is for old rear track hubs. Speaking of
which, why not join the fun and build up that hub as a fixed gear? If you
re-space it you could even slide it into your road frame, assuming you
have horizontal dropouts.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | "Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The
_`\(,_ | common welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance,
(_)/ (_) | and benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my
trade were but a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my
business!" --Dickens, "A Christmas Carol"

 

[[email protected]]

Yes, I thought about that too. I already ride singlespeed (DX sprocket
on cassette body) which works well, but I'm shy of going totally fixed
because of the not-insignificant gradients near me (and I've read of
risks associated with going fixed without the proper lockring, but I'm
sure that's an old subject around these parts).

http://tinyurl.com/cfju7 - my ride, if interested.

I thought about a SS freewheel, but you can't get them in 14t so I
couldn't get the ratio high enough with my 39t chainring. I'd also need
a different size chain, which I'd prefer not since I have investments
in 7-speed chain pins and links.

 

[Paul Hobson]

[email protected] wrote:
> Yes, I thought about that too. I already ride singlespeed (DX sprocket
> on cassette body) which works well, but I'm shy of going totally fixed
> because of the not-insignificant gradients near me (and I've read of
> risks associated with going fixed without the proper lockring, but I'm
> sure that's an old subject around these parts).

If there's a gear you can that let's you manage the hills on your
single-speed, climbing should be even easier on a fixie, IME. With that
in mind, you could probably choose a slightly larger gear so you don't
have to spin so fast going back down. Then again, you could be really
tough and just control your cadence the whole way down.

About the lockring, I've heard success stories involving the more
permanent variations of lock-tite, or whatever that stuff is called.
Not saying I'd trust it -- just what I've heard.

....just food for thought.
\\paul
--
Paul M. Hobson
Georgia Institute of Technology
..:change the f to ph to reply:.

 

[[email protected]]

'If there's a gear you can that let's you manage the hills on your
single-speed, climbing should be even easier on a fixie'

- I meant the *decents*. I don't fancy going down a 20% grad with a
ford at the bottom on a fixie just yet.

 

[[email protected]]

Ford : I mean a river crossing.... not a car

 

[dvt]

[email protected] wrote:
> Yes, I thought about that [fixed gear] too. I already ride singlespeed (DX sprocket
> on cassette body) which works well, but I'm shy of going totally fixed
> because of the not-insignificant gradients near me (and I've read of
> risks associated with going fixed without the proper lockring, but I'm
> sure that's an old subject around these parts).

If the threads are long enough, you can put on a fixed cog and a
separate ring to lock the cog in place. That's a pretty secure solution,
although not as secure as a left-hand threaded lockring. The adjustable
cup of the old-fashioned cup-n-cone bottom brackets have a ring that
should fit on your hub.

> I thought about a SS freewheel, but you can't get them in 14t so I
> couldn't get the ratio high enough with my 39t chainring. I'd also need
> a different size chain, which I'd prefer not since I have investments
> in 7-speed chain pins and links.

I'll assume you got the 39t ring from a 39:53 setup. 39/14 = 53/19. So
if you can fit the 53t chainring on the crank with good chainline, you
can use a 19t cog.

Why would you need a different size chain? You can get single speed or
fixed cogs in the 3/32 width, which will work just peachy with your
7-speed chains.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

 

[[email protected]]

>I'll assume you got the 39t ring from a 39:53 setup. 39/14 = 53/19. So
>if you can fit the 53t chainring on the crank with good chainline, you
>can use a 19t cog.

- I'm aware of how ratios work, I just don't want to buy another
chainring.

>Why would you need a different size chain? You can get single speed or
>fixed cogs in the 3/32 width, which will work just peachy with your
>7-speed chains.

- I thought 3/32 was another size of chain inbetween "7-speed" and
1/8" - so am I wrong on this or are you saying the 3/32 cog is
compatible with both 7s and 3/32 chain?

Is 3/32 chain not "5-speed"?

BTW, I'm going to do what I said before - use this hub on the front. I
respaced it, shifted the axle and filed some metal away at the drop-out
points on the axle and it looks good :

http://tinyurl.com/8hfwb - a pic for anyone interested

- Bernie S

 

[dvt]

[email protected] wrote:
>>Why would you need a different size chain? You can get single speed or
>>fixed cogs in the 3/32 width, which will work just peachy with your
>>7-speed chains.

> - I thought 3/32 was another size of chain inbetween "7-speed" and
> 1/8" - so am I wrong on this or are you saying the 3/32 cog is
> compatible with both 7s and 3/32 chain?

They'll work fine together. The 7-speed chain *may* be slightly narrower
than a 3/32" singlespeed chain, but I've had no trouble mixing and
matching. I've found that drivetrains aren't too picky about chains
until you get up to 9 cogs.

> BTW, I'm going to do what I said before - use this hub on the front.

I'm sure it'll work fine. Have fun!

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

 

[[email protected]]

[email protected] wrote:
> Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
> a 121mm OLN Maillard Atom screw-on hub off eBay (a drunken purchase, I
> didn't need it, but only £5) and noticed that you can respace it down
> to 110mm by removing the big right-hand spacing nut and the washers
> between the locknut and the cones (is bearing adjustment still do-able
> without these washers?).

Yep, quite a few modern hubs have done away with them. Should work
well.

> Is it OK to grind away some material from the axle so that it fits into
> the small front dropouts? Does it matter where I remove the material -
> from one edge only or trimmed all around? If so, then is it still okay
> to do this with a hollow axle (I would prefer to replace the solid axle
> with a cut-down hollow one so I can have a scewer). In practice, will
> ruining the axle threads at these two points prevent me removing the
> cones?

No problem on all counts. The axle you end up with might be similar to
the front axles in some Shimano hubs, such as the Deore LX shown in
this exploded view:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/cycli...nents/HB/EV-HB-M585_v1_m56577569830539643.pdf

http://tinyurl.com/83gwo

The axle is part number 8 of course. The threads for the cones are
M10x1, the axle has a normal through hole for a 5mm skewer, and the
last 5mm or so on each end steps down to 9mm OD (no threads).

You can also see that the right side has no washer between the lock nut
and the cone. There is a spacer on the left side, but I suppose that's
to accomodate some details about the disc brake being there.

Have fun!

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 07:23:32 -0800, autumnbernie wrote:

> I thought about a SS freewheel, but you can't get them in 14t so I
> couldn't get the ratio high enough with my 39t chainring.

You don't have a bigger chainring sitting around? You can get a 17, maybe
a 16; not big enough?

I'd also need
> a different size chain, which I'd prefer not since I have investments
> in 7-speed chain pins and links.

7-speed chain will work fine with most single-speed freewheels. The two I
have are both 3/32".

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Do not worry about your difficulties in mathematics, I can
_`\(,_ | assure you that mine are all greater. -- A. Einstein
(_)/ (_) |

 

[David L. Johnson]

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 10:43:51 -0800, autumnbernie wrote:

> - I thought 3/32 was another size of chain inbetween "7-speed" and
> 1/8" - so am I wrong on this or are you saying the 3/32 cog is
> compatible with both 7s and 3/32 chain?

Correct. All 5-6-7-8-9-speed chains are 3/32" inside width. I wonder
about 10sp, but I don't have one of those. The difference between such
chains is the width of the side plates

--

David L. Johnson

__o | It is probably that television drama of high caliber and
_`\(,_ | produced by first-rate artists will materially raise the level
(_)/ (_) | of dramatic taste in the nation. -- David Sarnoff, 1939

 

[Luke]

In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Thanks for the offer! But I already have a couple spare front hubs.
> Nevertheless, it's not about money-saving or the urget need for a front
> hub but rather finding a use for *this* hub.

<snip>

Might I recommend converting it to a hanger for a (wine) bottle opener?
That's what one of my spare hubs is functioning as - goes well with the
handlebars doing duty as a book stands.

Luke

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

David L. Johnson wrote:

> Yes, fronts are 100mm. 110 is for old rear track hubs. Speaking of
> which, why not join the fun and build up that hub as a fixed gear? If you
> re-space it you could even slide it into your road frame, assuming you
> have horizontal dropouts.
>
Sod that, why not build a front-wheel drive bike ;-)

 

[Dave Mayer]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
Thanks,
- Bernie Sluzalek

Bernie: I have been responsible for a lot of bike part mutations in my time.
I approve of the spirit of the thing, but in this case I would not waste
your time. Get a front hub. In my part of the world, bike shops have piles
of wrecked wheels in which the rims are taco'ed or crushed but the hubs are
fine. That is where I get my hubs.

 

[Donald Gillies]

[email protected] writes:

>Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
>a 121mm OLN Maillard Atom screw-on hub off eBay (a drunken purchase, I
>didn't need it, but only ...)

Why would you bother defacing your frameset and abusing your axle when
a NOS Maillard Atom screw-on hub costs only $10.00 + S/H ?? If you
want I will sell you one, just email me.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

 

[A Muzi]

> [email protected] writes:
>>Has anyone any experiences in using a rear hub as a front hub? I bought
>>a 121mm OLN Maillard Atom screw-on hub off eBay (a drunken purchase, I
>>didn't need it, but only ...)

Donald Gillies wrote:
> Why would you bother defacing your frameset and abusing your axle when
> a NOS Maillard Atom screw-on hub costs only $10.00 + S/H ?? If you
> want I will sell you one, just email me.

Not to spoil Don's $10 sale but you can snip a good front
hub out of the bashed wheels behind any LBS for free.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971