OMG - Help Please !!

On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this.

Take heart. Do what "The Book" says: Don't Panic!

There is a recent discussion of this very issue just around the corner
at:

http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/11799.0.html

Remember, don't panic.

Blake

Thankyou for the reply. I have since spoken with the shop where I bought the bike, and they have offered to help me with the problem.

gm

On Mar 11, 3:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:

OK, this is bad.

I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

This is where I kinda lost my head.

I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
either end.

This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
snapped.

I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
post.

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
with a write-off ??

--
gravelmuncher

We have seen it often as for some dim reason, many say to NOT grease
an aluminum post in CF frame...ya don't and ya get what you got. Take
a saw blade, wrap the end, and gingerly try to cut the remnants of the
post out by slotting it. Cannot do what you do with metal frames, use
a drill to take the remnanats of the SP out.

If the bike was from a bike store, it shares some of the
responsibility of fixing it, IMO.

On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:

OK, this is bad.

I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

This is where I kinda lost my head.

I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
either end.

This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
snapped.

I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
post.

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
with a write-off ??

--
gravelmuncher

Same thing happened to me. I did some research and I think it was the
DeLong book that suggested heat and cold to break the bond. I drilled
a small hole in the seat post and used a can of compressed air (you
can find it at a hobby shop or office supply store) with a small tube
that is inserted in the nozzle. I put a blow dryer on high on to seat
tube for about 30 min. continually moving it over the tube. At the end
of that time I inverted the compressed air can (not sure how safe this
was!) and inserted the small tube from the nozzle into the hole in the
seat post. I emptied three cans into the post. At that point frost was
covering the seat tube. I gave the post one good yank and out she
popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
like.

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:

OK, this is bad.

I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

This is where I kinda lost my head.

I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
either end.

This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
snapped.

I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
post.

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
with a write-off ??

--
gravelmuncher

Same thing happened to me. I did some research and I think it was the
DeLong book that suggested heat and cold to break the bond. I drilled
a small hole in the seat post and used a can of compressed air (you
can find it at a hobby shop or office supply store) with a small tube
that is inserted in the nozzle. I put a blow dryer on high on to seat
tube for about 30 min. continually moving it over the tube. At the end
of that time I inverted the compressed air can (not sure how safe this
was!) and inserted the small tube from the nozzle into the hole in the
seat post. I emptied three cans into the post. At that point frost was
covering the seat tube. I gave the post one good yank and out she
popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
like.

Good job.
Do not worry about environmentalists. Ever notice that
the hole in the ozone is coincident with atmospheric
mapping with artificial satellites? And where does the
ozone layer come from? A: sunlight on the upper
atmosphere. And how much sunlight is there on the south
pole at mid winter?

gravelmuncher said:

OK, this is bad.

I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

This is where I kinda lost my head.

I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
either end.

This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
snapped.

I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
post.

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
with a write-off ??

Tedious job. Make three lengthways cuts with a hacksaw blase and
collapse the post in on itself. Better, get a bike shop to do it.

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:

OK, this is bad.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This is where I kinda lost my head.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
either end.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
snapped.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
post.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
with a write-off ??

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

--
gravelmuncher

Quoted message said:

Same thing happened to me. I did some research and I think it was the
DeLong book that suggested heat and cold to break the bond. I drilled
a small hole in the seat post and used a can of compressed air (you
can find it at a hobby shop or office supply store) with a small tube
that is inserted in the nozzle. I put a blow dryer on high on to seat
tube for about 30 min. continually moving it over the tube. At the end
of that time I inverted the compressed air can (not sure how safe this
was!) and inserted the small tube from the nozzle into the hole in the
seat post. I emptied three cans into the post. At that point frost was
covering the seat tube. I gave the post one good yank and out she
popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
like.

Good job.
Do not worry about environmentalists. Ever notice that
the hole in the ozone is coincident with atmospheric
mapping with artificial satellites? And where does the
ozone layer come from? A: sunlight on the upper
atmosphere. And how much sunlight is there on the south
pole at mid winter?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hmmm, that's a pretty good job, to trash a field of science with five
sentences containing no references to either data or opinion from
qualified people.

PS: don't respond here - give a link - too many cranks already.

Donga

Quoted message said:

Remember, don't panic.

Blake

--------
I did when it happened to me.

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Donga said:

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> OK, this is bad.

Quoted message said:

> I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
> store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
> and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
> with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
> at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

Quoted message said:

> And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
> was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
> tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
> slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
> screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
> screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
> whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

Quoted message said:

> This is where I kinda lost my head.

Quoted message said:

> I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
> stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
> the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
> either end.

Quoted message said:

> This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
> snapped.

Quoted message said:

> I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
> Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
> with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
> mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
> at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
> the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
> me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
> hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
> post.

Quoted message said:

> This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
> Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
> where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
> made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
> with a write-off ??

Quoted message said:

> --
> gravelmuncher

Quoted message said:

Same thing happened to me. I did some research and I think it was the
DeLong book that suggested heat and cold to break the bond. I drilled
a small hole in the seat post and used a can of compressed air (you
can find it at a hobby shop or office supply store) with a small tube
that is inserted in the nozzle. I put a blow dryer on high on to seat
tube for about 30 min. continually moving it over the tube. At the end
of that time I inverted the compressed air can (not sure how safe this
was!) and inserted the small tube from the nozzle into the hole in the
seat post. I emptied three cans into the post. At that point frost was
covering the seat tube. I gave the post one good yank and out she
popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
like.

Good job.
Do not worry about environmentalists. Ever notice that
the hole in the ozone is coincident with atmospheric
mapping with artificial satellites? And where does the
ozone layer come from? A: sunlight on the upper
atmosphere. And how much sunlight is there on the south
pole at mid winter?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hmmm, that's a pretty good job, to trash a field of science with five
sentences containing no references to either data or opinion from
qualified people.

What requires references?
There was no ozone hole until artificial satellites.
Sunlight sustains the ozone layer.
There is no sunlight above the Antarctic during the winter.

Might as well say that man-made satellites cause the ozone hole.

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Donga said:

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] wrote:
> On Mar 11, 4:02 am, gravelmuncher <gravelmuncher.2n9...@no-
> mx.forums.cyclingforums.com> wrote:
> > OK, this is bad.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > I bought an '05 pre-loved carbon MTB yesterday - from a bike store. The
> > store and owner is known by many. He gave me an amazing deal on frame
> > and brakes, and laced a new disc hub into my wheel for peanuts. It came
> > with a scratchy Race-Face aluminium seatpost - which didn't concern me
> > at all, as I was only gonna pull it out and put my Titec gear in.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > And so here we arrive at my disaster. The clamp was loose, but the post
> > was tight. I wriggled it - tight. I fitted my saddle for more leverage -
> > tight. I wriggled harder - tight. I sprayed RP7 around the post and
> > slots, wriggled - tight. Hmm. I removed the saddle and clamped 2
> > screwdrivers into the saddle-rail channels - tight. I SWUNG of the damn
> > screwdrivers - tight. I grabbed it with VISE-GRIPS and swung off it
> > whilst ALSO swinging off a screwdriver with my other hand - TIGHT.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > This is where I kinda lost my head.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > I figured that it HAD to give soon, and seeing that the post was
> > stuffed now anyways, I drilled a hole through the post about 20mm above
> > the clamp. I inserted a LONG screwdriver through this hole, and twisted
> > either end.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > This is where I ended up with the top half of the post in my lap -
> > snapped.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > I've spent most of yesterday evening and most of today seeping
> > Penetrene around the post, and wriggling the remaining 20mm of post
> > with the vise grips. I don't beleive that it has even moved 1/10 of a
> > mm. Late this afternoon I rigged up a long bolt with a washer and nut
> > at one end - which I fed into the wounded post, and when in position
> > the washer covered the BASE of the post (inside the tube) and allowed
> > me to hammer the post from the inside-out. Great idea - no result. I
> > hit it with enough force to omlette the washer, yet not shift the
> > post.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > This is the point where I sit here - SHATTERED. I have no more ideas.
> > Has ANYBODY ever experienced this with a CF frame ?? Does anybody know
> > where I can get some help with this. I realise that I may well have
> > made my problem 100 times worse by snapping the post, but am I lumped
> > with a write-off ??

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > --
> > gravelmuncher

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> Same thing happened to me. I did some research and I think it was the
> DeLong book that suggested heat and cold to break the bond. I drilled
> a small hole in the seat post and used a can of compressed air (you
> can find it at a hobby shop or office supply store) with a small tube
> that is inserted in the nozzle. I put a blow dryer on high on to seat
> tube for about 30 min. continually moving it over the tube. At the end
> of that time I inverted the compressed air can (not sure how safe this
> was!) and inserted the small tube from the nozzle into the hole in the
> seat post. I emptied three cans into the post. At that point frost was
> covering the seat tube. I gave the post one good yank and out she
> popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
> other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
> COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
> like.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Good job.
Do not worry about environmentalists. Ever notice that
the hole in the ozone is coincident with atmospheric
mapping with artificial satellites? And where does the
ozone layer come from? A: sunlight on the upper
atmosphere. And how much sunlight is there on the south
pole at mid winter?- Hide quoted text -

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

- Show quoted text -

Quoted message said:

Hmmm, that's a pretty good job, to trash a field of science with five
sentences containing no references to either data or opinion from
qualified people.

What requires references?
There was no ozone hole until artificial satellites.
Sunlight sustains the ozone layer.
There is no sunlight above the Antarctic during the winter.

Might as well say that man-made satellites cause the ozone hole.

Except the hole has shrunk since CFCs were banned, and there are still
plenty o' satellites.

Still, you're right in saying not to worry about the environmentalists
when it comes to the propellant in a can of compressed air. Those
have been CFC-free for over a decade.

Michael Press said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> popped. Best of luck! By the way, inverting the can forces freon or
> other refrigerant out of the compressed air can. BE CAREFUL! It is
> COLD. I also don't think this is a method many environmentalists would
> like.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Good job.
Do not worry about environmentalists. Ever notice that
the hole in the ozone is coincident with atmospheric
mapping with artificial satellites? And where does the
ozone layer come from? A: sunlight on the upper
atmosphere. And how much sunlight is there on the south
pole at mid winter?- Hide quoted text -

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

- Show quoted text -

Quoted message said:

Hmmm, that's a pretty good job, to trash a field of science with five
sentences containing no references to either data or opinion from
qualified people.

What requires references?
There was no ozone hole until artificial satellites.
Sunlight sustains the ozone layer.
There is no sunlight above the Antarctic during the winter.

Might as well say that man-made satellites cause the ozone hole.

You could say instead that spray cans don't have any
Freon in them, since the propellant has been changed to
some non-CFC hydrocarbon (often propane or a butane).
[Just like AC refrigerants have been changed.]
This line of argument has several advantages, including
that it is not gibberish, and it is accurate. There is
a third point, which is that current propellants are
often flammable, so if you're going to spray three cans
of compressed air into a seat tube, don't worry so much
about the ozone layer, but for god's sake do it outside,
and don't smoke!

Ben

Before this thread get's too far out of context - i'd just like to let you know that the post is OUT. I'm sure the clever ba&7ard won't mind me telling how he did it.

Basically, he's wound an old inch quill stem into it real tight, then up-ended it into the bench vise and rotated the frame back and forth.

Bloody genious.

gm