Earl Bollinger said:<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:Elsewhere, doubts have been cast on the accuracy of Park's modestly
priced blue bicycle spoke tension gauge.
Hmmm . . . I'd never tested my trusty (?) Park tension gauge!
It does notice whenever I add small weights or turn spoke nipples or
let the air out of a tire--what else can a simple spring do?
But what if it's been lying to me all this time and just flattering me
when I ask it whether pinching spokes together makes my spoke-tension
look fat? What if the tension is 50% higher than the calibration table
claims?
How could I enjoy visions of sugar-plums dancing through my head
tonight with this kind of uncertainty nagging me?
So I bent the ends of a helpless 2 mm straight steel spoke into
U-hooks, added some wire-rope thingies to stop the U-hooks from
straightening, hung the spoke from a ceiling rope, and dangled a crude
rope-and-2x4 swing from the spoke to allow loading a standard 195-lb
Fogel onto the spoke.
I stepped onto the swing and found . . .
That I swung so wildly on my piñata-style contraption that there was
no way to read the Park tension gauge, much less take a picture of the
festivities.
Alas, the vast stock of convenient weights at Fogel Labs totals only
about 100 real pounds on postal scales. (An inflated 110 pounds
according to the lying numbers stamped on the weights themselves.)
At first I feared that Christmas would be ruined, since I needed
something close to 200 pounds to represent a low-normal 90 kgf
spoke tension.
But then I remembered that several plastic buckets are kept around the
premises for . . . well, for important stuff like this.
Filled not too near the top, the first bucket weighed a handy 30
pounds. After filling all three buckets and checking that they weighed
30 pounds, I dangled 100 lbs of weights on a bar and three 30-pound
buckets of water from a 2 mm spoke:
http://i14.tinypic.com/4960dw3.jpg
http://i18.tinypic.com/2czqz6f.jpg
Click on the lower right for full-size images in Explorer.
The Park gauge reads about 22 on a scale of 0 to 45. (It's a little
over 22, and then the camera angle makes it look a little higher. I
steadied the camera on a handy but slightly too-high stand.)
For a 2 mm spoke, the Park calibration chart shows this to mean a
tension of 85 kgf, or 187 pounds, reasonably close to the 190 pounds
of ropes, bar, weights, buckets, and water in the picture.
Park 2.0mm spoke
mark kgf / lbs
off scale
17 51 / 112
18 56 / 123
19 62 / 136
20 68 / 150
21 76 / 167
22 85 / 187 <--~190 lbs of weights hung from spoke
23 95 / 209
24 107 / 235
25 121 / 266
26 137 / 301
27 156 / 343
28 179 / 394
off scale
I hope that this test pleases anyone who gets a blue Park tension
gauge tomorrow morning. (Or a gift certificate to places that sell
it.)
Merry Christmas!
Carl Fogel
That is nice to know. Thanks.
That is a very imaginatively neat setup you used to test it too.
I wonder how the modest Park tool compares to the super fancy spoke tension
gauges?
Dear Earl,
Well, there are two kinds of tension gauges . . .
The Park gauge is just a spring arm (hammer post) with a long needle
attached to the hammer-shaft. The hammer post pushes against the
middle of a short spoke span, which is supported by two end posts
(anvil posts).
Where the needle ends up on the gauge depends on two things.
First, how thick is the spoke? The hammer post hits a thick spoke
sooner than it hits a thin spoke, so readings begin sooner for a thick
spoke, higher on the scale. This is just an offset, but it's
considerable for even small differences in spoke thickness.
Second, how much does the spoke bend under the spring pushing the
hammer? This mostly depends on how much tension is trying to keep the
spoke straight, but there are other factors.
Friction, for example, confuses things. When the hammer bends the
spoke, it tries to drag the spoke inward over both posts. This raises
the tension slightly, so the lower the hammer force, the less
frictional distortion. The Park posts are just fixed, polished metal,
but I think that more expensive gauges may have roller-posts to reduce
friction.
The thickness and material of the spoke also confuses things. The
thicker the spoke and the stiffer its material, the more it resists
bending just by its own stiffness.
Higher marks mean higher tensions. Mark 20 on the Park calibration
tables means 68 kgf for a round steel 2mm spoke, 89 kgf for a round
steel 1.8mm spoke, 80 kgf for a round titanium spoke.
For a round 3.3mm aluminum spoke, mark 36 (way up there!) means only
89 kgf. The 3.3mm thickness of the spoke means that the hammer hits
the spoke much sooner and stops at much higher marks.
Steel motorcycle spokes are so stiff that the Park tool may be useless
because its spring isn't powerful enough bend the massive spokes. You
can get readings, but it's about like trying to weigh a 2 pound
package accurately on a bathroom spring scale intended for 100 to 200
pound objects--the range is wrong.
Here's a 3.5mm (4mm elbow butt) spoke (modest for a motorcycle) next
to a 2mm straight spoke (husky for a bicycle):
http://home.comcast.net/~carlfogel/download/spokes.jpg
Here the obviously 0-tension 3.5mm section of motorcycle spoke reads
almost 25 on a Park gauge:
http://i11.tinypic.com/2me5zec.jpg
Here the obviously 0-tension 2mm bike spoke reads 0 on a Park gauge:
http://i18.tinypic.com/2wp5s2c.jpg
And here's the back of the Park gauge:
http://i10.tinypic.com/47i07xv.jpg
One end of the \/ spring fits into the slotted head of the long
adjustment screw on the left. The back of the "hammer" post is the
round gray spot to the right of the spring post. The "needle" is the
large black squeeze-handle.
Click on the lower right in Explorer for full-size images.
The Park gauge and the Wheelsmith gauge are the inexpensive ones and
use this simple spring and calibration table approach. Park Tool will
re-calibrate a gauge for a fee. Here's a page showing a few brands:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/wheel.html#tensiometers
More expensive tension gauges use a different approach. The red DT
gauge on Sheldon's page uses a built-in micrometer to measure how far
the spring-load hammer moves _after_ it first touches the spoke. Then
you figure out from tables what that movement means. The idea is to
use the geometric calculation approach, but it still ends up
calibrating for spoke thickness and material and so forth. You can get
dial indicators or even more expensive digital indicators, but they
both just measure how far the hammer moves the spoke sideways.
I don't know of any tests comparing the accuracy of the simple spring
and needle Park and Wheelsmith style gauges versus the micrometer
reading of hammer movement.
At first, the micrometer sounds more accurate, but then you realize
that the Park needle is almost 7 inches long. I suspect that the more
expensive gauges may be more accurate, but that much of the accuracy
lies in polishing and rollers to reduce friction.
You can compare the DT Swiss and the Park calibration tables to get an
idea of the practical outcome.
Here's the DT Swiss pdf, with a conversion graphs and tables starting
on page 9:
http://www.dtswiss.com/data/files/MAN_EN_51202133804.pdf
Here's the Park calibration table:
http://www.parktool.com/products/documents/TM_1table_2005912_4301.pdf
For practical wheel-building (as opposed to insatiable curiosity), the
Park gauge seems to be accurate enough to get the spokes to the right
absolute tension (say 110 kgf) and accurate enough to get them to the
same tension (very small differences between spokes are noticeable).
Cheers,
Carl Fogel