pedal wrench size

Mike Miles said:

What is the equivalent size (metric or SAE) open ended wrench for pedals?

15mm for all but pedals on the Ashtabula one-piece Schwinn Varsity -type crank, as far as I know. In
other words, almost certainly 15mm.

Quoted message said:

Also, is there a convenient website for steps on installing stems/quills on a threaded steerer?
don't know if sheldon has this info, his site is too large to navigate sometimes 🙂.

I don't understand - are you looking for subtle stuff? grease contact surfaces, stick stem in fork,
tighten binder bolt. I don't know if there are torque specifications available; you can overdo, but
it takes some effort. Pay attention to the minimum insertion line.

Good luck. Mark Janeba

Mike Miles said:

What is the equivalent size (metric or SAE) open ended wrench for pedals?

parktool.comFAQpedls.shtmlOpen ↗

parktool.comFAQindex.shtmlOpen ↗

15mm or 9/16" Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the
crank arm opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

Quoted message said:

Also, is there a convenient website for steps on installing stems/quills on a threaded steerer?
don't know if sheldon has this info, his site is too large to navigate sometimes 🙂.

sheldonbrown.comhandsup.htmlOpen ↗

Often, the best way to find articles is to go to his Bicycle Glossary about specific parts and poke
around at the various links.

Quoted message said:

fyi, bought an old roadie on ebay, just need to get the last pieces in place, and tighten it
all down.

Don't forget the grease when you install the pedals, stem, bottom bracket., etc.

Mike Miles said:

What is the equivalent size (metric or SAE) open ended wrench for pedals?

15mm.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) jasmine.org.uk~simonOpen ↗

do not sail on uphill water
- Bill Lee

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 00:14:40 -0500, Mike Miles <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the crank arm
opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

That's only for emergencies, like when a pedal comes loose on the trail. Use the 15mm.

Matt O.

Matt O'Toole said:

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 00:14:40 -0500, Mike Miles <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the crank arm
opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

That's only for emergencies, like when a pedal comes loose on the trail. Use the 15mm.

Matt O.

Is there something better about using an open-ended wrench over an allen wrench?

On an old garage sale bike, the allen wrench approach was how I got a very difficult pedal off. 6mm
on a ratchet with a cheater bar. But there may be tricks to holding the cranks and pushing on your
typical wrench that I don't know.

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Is there something better about using an open-ended wrench over an allen wrench?

On an old garage sale bike, the allen wrench approach was how I got a very difficult pedal off.
6mm on a ratchet with a cheater bar. But there may be tricks to holding the cranks and pushing on
your typical wrench that I don't know.

It may work, but an allen head is not as strong as regular wrench flats. Pedals can be hard to break
loose, and there's a good chance the allen head will strip. So use the stronger, 15mm wrench flats,
and leave the 6mm allen for emergencies.

Matt O.

Matt O'Toole <[email hidden]> wrote:
: It may work, but an allen head is not as strong as regular wrench flats. Pedals can be hard to
: break loose, and there's a good chance the allen head will strip. So use the stronger, 15mm wrench
: flats, and leave the 6mm allen for emergencies.

grrrr..

groups.google.comgroupsOpen ↗
0AEDF4%40yahoo.com&frame=off -or- tinyurl.comsmseOpen ↗

i've not been happy with Time for this.
--
david reuteler [email hidden]

David Reuteler said:

Matt O'Toole <[email hidden]> wrote:
: It may work, but an allen head is not as strong as regular wrench flats. Pedals can be hard to
: break loose, and there's a good chance the allen head will strip. So use the stronger, 15mm
: wrench flats, and leave the 6mm allen for emergencies.

grrrr..

groups.google.comgroupsOpen ↗
40AEDF4%40yahoo.com&frame=off -or- tinyurl.comsmseOpen ↗

i've not been happy with Time for this.

As someone mentions in that thread you reference, you don't need to use a lot of torque installing
pedals. I have never rounded out an allen-head stem bolt, which usually takes more force than a
pedal. And when I have used an allen on pedals, I had no worries about rounding out the hole.

Still, allen bolts will be more sensitive to any tolerance problems. A slightly loose opening
and/or a slightly small wrench.... I'd agree with Matt that flats are safer- more forgiving. But I
wouldn't avoid allen bolts; just recognize the possible problem. With pedals, be certain to grease
the threads.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 00:14:40 -0500, Mike Miles <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the crank arm
opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

That's only for emergencies, like when a pedal comes loose on the trail. Use the 15mm.

Matt O.

Dear Dan and Matt,

Some emergencies may be bigger than others.

My allen-head screws (or bolts) take 8mm allen keys, a size often missing from multi-tools. Some
fold-ups provide the 8mm by including an 8mm removable socket-head that fits on the 6mm folding key.
It's reassuring to have one.

Matt's advice seems sound--the 15mm open-end pedal wrench offers a far better grip and much more
leverage, both of which are needed.

Carl Fogel

Dan Daniel <[email hidden]> wrote:
: As someone mentions in that thread you reference, you don't need to use a lot of torque installing
: pedals. I have never rounded out an allen-head stem bolt, which usually takes more force than a
: pedal. And when I have used an allen on pedals, I had no worries about rounding out the hole.

my complaint with time is ..

.. why?

there's no reason for this. most of the time i don't have trouble. but most noteably on bikes i've
come across used i have had CONSIDERABLE difficulty getting them off.

probably not everyone knows you don't need to use a lot of torque. maybe some don't know about
grease. i'd prefer the bike not have time pedals when that happens.

or maybe i'll get a meter long 6mm allen wrench and give it a whirl. who knows?
--
david reuteler [email hidden]

David Reuteler said:

my complaint with time is ..

.. why?

there's no reason for this. most of the time i don't have trouble. but most noteably on bikes i've
come across used i have had CONSIDERABLE difficulty getting them off.

probably not everyone knows you don't need to use a lot of torque. maybe some don't know about
grease. i'd prefer the bike not have time pedals when that happens.

or maybe i'll get a meter long 6mm allen wrench and give it a whirl. who knows?

A length of iron pipe, a foot or two long, can be a very helpful thing to keep in a corner 🙂 Slide
it over the allen wrench itself or the handle of the ratchet wrench. I've freed up a few rusted
bottom brackets with that extra bit of leverage.

Would a 3/8" driver 15mm crow's foot work, or is a pedal wrench necessary? I'd like to use the
former with a torque wrench to install some pedals.

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Mike Miles said:

What is the equivalent size (metric or SAE) open ended wrench for

pedals?

Quoted message said:

15mm.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) jasmine.org.uk~simonOpen ↗

do not sail on uphill water
- Bill Lee

Dan Daniel said:

Matt O'Toole said:

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 00:14:40 -0500, Mike Miles <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the crank arm
opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

That's only for emergencies, like when a pedal comes loose on the trail. Use the 15mm.

Is there something better about using an open-ended wrench over an allen wrench?

In this case, yes: the wrench (as you USians would say) or spanner (as out English neighbours would
say) or key (as we Scots would say) has larger flats and is less likely to cause damage either to
itself or the pedal.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) jasmine.org.uk~simonOpen ↗

;; MS Windows: A thirty-two bit extension ... to a sixteen bit ;; patch to an eight bit
operating system originally coded for a ;; four bit microprocessor and sold by a two-bit company
that ;; can't stand one bit of competition -- anonymous

David Reuteler said:

my complaint with time is .. .. why? there's no reason for this. most of the time i don't have
trouble. but most noteably on bikes i've come across used i have had CONSIDERABLE difficulty
getting them off.

Because there's a bearing in the place where the wrench flat would normally go. Time Alium pedals
have a regular wrench flat, but they also have a cheaper bushing (?) that is reputed to not last as
long. The location of the bearing is probably influenced by Time's desire to have the cleat surface
be close to the pedal spindle (this is an ad point for them, I'm not endorsing it). Sure it is
annoying but they are nice pedals.

Quoted message said:

probably not everyone knows you don't need to use a lot of torque. maybe some don't know about
grease. i'd prefer the bike not have time pedals when that happens.

Pedals should be installed with a reasonable amount of torque, otherwise they can come loose. Most
stuck pedals that I have encountered seemed to be stuck due to lack of grease and corrosion rather
than installation torque. After all, you can only torque a Time pedal _on_ with a 6mm hex wrench ...

Quoted message said:

or maybe i'll get a meter long 6mm allen wrench and give it a whirl. who knows?

Get a set of allen head bits for your 16" long torque wrench, they come in handy for installing
cranks and the like. Sears sells 'em.

Mike Miles said:

What is the equivalent size (metric or SAE) open ended wrench for pedals?

Most are 15 mm ... Some are 9/16"

Quoted message said:

Also, is there a convenient website for steps on installing stems/quills on a threaded steerer?
don't know if sheldon has this info, his site is too large to navigate sometimes 🙂.

Loosen the wedge bolt. Insert quill into steerer. Adjust to proper height. Tighten the wedge bolt.

--
Steven L. Sheffield stevens at veloworks dot com veloworks at worldnet dot ay tea tee dot net bellum
pax est libertas servitus est ignoratio vis est ess ay ell tea ell ay kay ee sea aye tee why you ti
ay aitch aitch tee tea pea colon [for word] slash [four ward] slash double-you double-yew double-ewe
dot veloworks dot com [four word] slash

Matt O'Toole said:

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Some pedals have allen wrench sockets (?? what is that called?) on the inside of the crank arm
opening. 6mm is what I have seen, but there are probably other sizes.

That's only for emergencies, like when a pedal comes loose on the trail. Use the 15mm.

Or when you ride Time pedals, which don't have flats for a pedal wrench.

--
Steven L. Sheffield stevens at veloworks dot com veloworks at worldnet dot ay tea tee dot net bellum
pax est libertas servitus est ignoratio vis est ess ay ell tea ell ay kay ee sea aye tee why you ti
ay aitch aitch tee tea pea colon [for word] slash [four ward] slash double-you double-yew double-ewe
dot veloworks dot com [four word] slash

In article <psqnb.36934$ao4.81124@attbi_s51>,

Kovie said:

Would a 3/8" driver 15mm crow's foot work, or is a pedal wrench necessary? I'd like to use the
former with a torque wrench to install some pedals.

Depends on the pedal. Some (most of mine) have flats wide enough that standard wrenches will work; I
don't even own a proper pedal wrench, just a fairly conventional 15 mm open-ended wrench.

That said, there are some pedals where the wrench flats are quite narrow, and you do need a proper
pedal wrench, or as I do, an allen-key socket on a 3/8" driver.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousineOpen ↗ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

David Reuteler <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

grrrr..

i've not been happy with Time for [making pedals with no standard 15mm flats, > only allen key
access from the back].

you said it. i took one particularly tight set of pedals off a bike a couple days ago. i think it
might have been a tough job with my super-duper 'pro' park pedal wrench (SDPPPW). i swore i was
gonna' break my 6mm.

check out 'DIY bike cable/luber' and 'pedal removal' for an excellent and relatively
foolproof methoid