Powder coating



D

David Martin

Guest
It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down and
rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.

The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather than
enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for etc.?

IIRC Pete had a frame done by a firm in Carnoustie? Were you satisfied with
that?

...d
 
David Martin ([email protected]) wrote:
: It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down and
: rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
: The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather than
: enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for etc.?
: IIRC Pete had a frame done by a firm in Carnoustie? Were you satisfied with
: that?

www.bikepaints.co.uk Don't know if these folk will do push-bikes but
it might be worth a try. They do work for some of the top motorbike race
teams.

Blair.
 
"David Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BD831E72.221F4%[email protected]...
> It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down and
> rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
>
> The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather than
> enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for
etc.?
>
> IIRC Pete had a frame done by a firm in Carnoustie? Were you satisfied
with
> that?
>
> ..d
>

I've had about 5 frames blasted and powder coated (in fact one is at the
blaster now) - good, economical solution for plain colours (in a slightly
limited range) not as glossy as enamel but seems to be more hard-wearing
than paint refinishes.

RG
 
David Martin wrote:
> It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down
and
> rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
>
> The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather
than
> enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for
etc.?
>
> IIRC Pete had a frame done by a firm in Carnoustie? Were you
satisfied with
> that?
>
> ..d


Hi David.

Where are you based? There's a guy under a railway arch in the Gorbals
(Glasgow) who has done a couple of frames for me in the past. I think
he charged my £15 for one and £20 for other.

Let me know if you're anywhere near and I'll dig out the details for
you.

Cheers, Andy
www.stirling-tri.co.uk
 
On 1/10/04 5:26 pm, in article
[email protected],
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> David Martin wrote:
>> It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down
> and
>> rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
>>
>> The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather
> than
>> enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for
> etc.?
>>
>> IIRC Pete had a frame done by a firm in Carnoustie? Were you
> satisfied with
>> that?
>>
>> ..d
>
>
> Hi David.
>
> Where are you based? There's a guy under a railway arch in the Gorbals
> (Glasgow) who has done a couple of frames for me in the past. I think
> he charged my £15 for one and £20 for other.
>
> Let me know if you're anywhere near and I'll dig out the details for
> you.
>

I am in Dundee. The details would be useful..

...d
 
David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<BD831E72.221F4%[email protected]>...
> It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down and
> rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
>
> The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather than
> enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for etc.?
>

Powder coating, when done properly, is nice and durable. If you want
the colour of your frame changed again in a few years time, mind, this
also means it will be a pig to remove - so don't forget to warn the
finisher beforehand!
Other tips; put old bolts in gear lever/bottle bosses, mudguard eyes
and the seat clamp to keep threads clear of powder-coat, and do the
same for the BB shell by screwing in a pair of old BB cups before
handing the frame over to the finishers.

David E. Belcher
 
On 4/10/04 12:43 pm, in article
[email protected], "David E. Belcher"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<BD831E72.221F4%[email protected]>...
>> It is beyond time for some TLC for my old road bike. So a strip down and
>> rebuild is in order with a respray at the same time.
>>
>> The cheapest way to get a respray is to get it powder coated, rather than
>> enamelled. Does anyone have any comments on that? Things to watch for etc.?
>>
>
> Powder coating, when done properly, is nice and durable. If you want
> the colour of your frame changed again in a few years time, mind, this
> also means it will be a pig to remove - so don't forget to warn the
> finisher beforehand!
> Other tips; put old bolts in gear lever/bottle bosses, mudguard eyes
> and the seat clamp to keep threads clear of powder-coat, and do the
> same for the BB shell by screwing in a pair of old BB cups before
> handing the frame over to the finishers.

Thanks for that. How would this affect the shotblasting?

I have appropriate taps for the bolt threads.. they need cleaning anyway so
I might do that before handing it over.

I also want to spread the rear triangle a few mm (126 to 130). Not being
particular keen on Sh*ld*n Br*wn's 2x4 method, I was wondering whether
anyone had any experience with using threaded rod and a few nuts..

...d
 
David Martin wrote:
>
> I also want to spread the rear triangle a few mm (126 to 130). Not
> being particular keen on Sh*ld*n Br*wn's 2x4 method, I was wondering
> whether anyone had any experience with using threaded rod and a few
> nuts..
>

Trouble with rod and nuts is you can't make it move te same each side. Once
one side yields that will keep yielding and the other side will stay still.

Mr Browns method will work, its only steel and you can move it around those
few mm without damage.



--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK


Love this:
Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
 
On 4/10/04 11:45 pm, in article [email protected],
"AndyMorris" <[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin wrote:
>>
>> I also want to spread the rear triangle a few mm (126 to 130). Not
>> being particular keen on Sh*ld*n Br*wn's 2x4 method, I was wondering
>> whether anyone had any experience with using threaded rod and a few
>> nuts..
>>
>
> Trouble with rod and nuts is you can't make it move te same each side. Once
> one side yields that will keep yielding and the other side will stay still.

In theory. In practice the difference between the two sides will be less
than the total change.

So I did this, an M8 rod, some washers and nuts, and a rule.

The dropouts started at 124mm apart. I put tension on and expanded a bit,
then backed off to measure the result.

It is amazing how much flex there is in a bike frame. I had to go to about
180mm before I got any measurable difference.

I got it to what I thought was 130 (but ended up being a shade over 128) and
measured the alignment. (I hadn't checked the alignment before starting).
Less than 2mm difference which in my book is close enough (1mm out of
alignment).

ANd took the frame to the powder coaters.. It will be done in stealth
'holographic black' which is gloss black with iridescent speckles in it.

I can't justify the TA Vega light compact double chainset just now (to get a
black chainset to match the frame) , that will come along with some nice
black/greay campag bits.

I'll collect it on Friday and then have the fun of putting it all back
together.

...d
 
in message <BD89929D.228FD%[email protected]>, David Martin
('[email protected]') wrote:

> ANd took the frame to the powder coaters.. It will be done in stealth
> 'holographic black' which is gloss black with iridescent speckles in
> it.

Ooh - let us know how this turns out.

> I can't justify the TA Vega light compact double chainset just now (to
> get a black chainset to match the frame) , that will come along with
> some nice black/greay campag bits.

If you manage to get a grey Centaur groupset I shall hate you. I
couldn't and had to make do with the polished one.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; may contain traces of nuts, bolts or washers.
 
On 6/10/04 2:05 pm, in article
[email protected], "Simon Brooke"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> in message <BD89929D.228FD%[email protected]>, David Martin
> ('[email protected]') wrote:
>
>> ANd took the frame to the powder coaters.. It will be done in stealth
>> 'holographic black' which is gloss black with iridescent speckles in
>> it.
>
> Ooh - let us know how this turns out.
>
I did take some 'before' photos and will take some after ones as well. In
the first instance it will have a mix of black 3T stem/seatpost, black
saddle, black rims (open4cd), sante changers, RSX STI and callipers, and my
Ultegra chainset. ANd not forgettign the two Dura-ace bits (adjustable
downtube STI bosses) I can't justify spending another 300+ GBP to get all
the non-black bits black.. when SWMBO finds out I've spent yet more money on
the bike (headset and BB due to arrive soon)....

Now I have to find some way of doing nice transfers..


>> I can't justify the TA Vega light compact double chainset just now (to
>> get a black chainset to match the frame) , that will come along with
>> some nice black/greay campag bits.
>
> If you manage to get a grey Centaur groupset I shall hate you. I
> couldn't and had to make do with the polished one.

Out of my budget. Probably looking at Mirage as the right colour/price point
for gears as and when they need to be upgraded.

...d
 
David Martin wrote:
> On 4/10/04 11:45 pm, in article [email protected],
> "AndyMorris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> David Martin wrote:
>>>
>>> I also want to spread the rear triangle a few mm (126 to 130). Not
>>> being particular keen on Sh*ld*n Br*wn's 2x4 method, I was wondering
>>> whether anyone had any experience with using threaded rod and a few
>>> nuts..
>>>
>>
>> Trouble with rod and nuts is you can't make it move te same each
>> side. Once one side yields that will keep yielding and the other
>> side will stay still.
>
> In theory. In practice the difference between the two sides will be
> less than the total change.
>
> So I did this, an M8 rod, some washers and nuts, and a rule.
>
> The dropouts started at 124mm apart. I put tension on and expanded a
> bit, then backed off to measure the result.
>
> It is amazing how much flex there is in a bike frame. I had to go to
> about 180mm before I got any measurable difference.
>
> I got it to what I thought was 130 (but ended up being a shade over
> 128) and measured the alignment. (I hadn't checked the alignment
> before starting). Less than 2mm difference which in my book is close
> enough (1mm out of alignment).
>

Thats not fair, you not supposed to actually try it to see what happens, you
supposed to make it up and ********.


--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK


Love this:
Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
 
On 7/10/04 12:08 am, in article [email protected],
"AndyMorris" <[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin wrote:
>> On 4/10/04 11:45 pm, in article [email protected],
>> "AndyMorris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> David Martin wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I also want to spread the rear triangle a few mm (126 to 130). Not
>>>> being particular keen on Sh*ld*n Br*wn's 2x4 method, I was wondering
>>>> whether anyone had any experience with using threaded rod and a few
>>>> nuts..
>>>>
>>>
>>> Trouble with rod and nuts is you can't make it move te same each
>>> side. Once one side yields that will keep yielding and the other
>>> side will stay still.
>>
>> In theory. In practice the difference between the two sides will be
>> less than the total change.
>>
>> So I did this, an M8 rod, some washers and nuts, and a rule.
>>
>> The dropouts started at 124mm apart. I put tension on and expanded a
>> bit, then backed off to measure the result.
>>
>> It is amazing how much flex there is in a bike frame. I had to go to
>> about 180mm before I got any measurable difference.
>>
>> I got it to what I thought was 130 (but ended up being a shade over
>> 128) and measured the alignment. (I hadn't checked the alignment
>> before starting). Less than 2mm difference which in my book is close
>> enough (1mm out of alignment).
>>
>
> Thats not fair, you not supposed to actually try it to see what happens, you
> supposed to make it up and ********.

Oops! rumbled.

Never mind. I'll ******** like crazy about how easy it is to accurately fit
a headset bearing with nothing more advanced than a pair of 30" stilsons,
two bits of 2x4, part of an old washing machine, a MIG welder and two left
flipflops. It should of course be notred that using two right flip flops
risks seriously damaging your rear dropout and is not recommended. A right
and a left flipflop would have indeterminate effects.

...d
 
David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<BD89BD16.22E03%[email protected]>...
>
> Now I have to find some way of doing nice transfers..
>

Pete Whelan, who posts on u.r.c, can do custom made self-adhesive
vinyl decals for you (contact him via the group or grab his e-mail
address off a recent post). Only real restriction - as far as I can
tell from past experience - is that they have to be written in a MS
Office-compatible font. Oh, and you'll need to lacquer them after they
go on the bike to give them a prolonged life (mind you, I didn't, and
mine have still lasted a good while).

David E. Belcher
 
On 7/10/04 4:10 pm, in article
[email protected], "David E. Belcher"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<BD89BD16.22E03%[email protected]>...
>>
>> Now I have to find some way of doing nice transfers..
>>
>
> Pete Whelan, who posts on u.r.c, can do custom made self-adhesive
> vinyl decals for you (contact him via the group or grab his e-mail
> address off a recent post). Only real restriction - as far as I can
> tell from past experience - is that they have to be written in a MS
> Office-compatible font. Oh, and you'll need to lacquer them after they
> go on the bike to give them a prolonged life (mind you, I didn't, and
> mine have still lasted a good while).

These sound like just the job..
My email is pretty easy to find if Pete wants to drop me a line, otherwise
I'll look out for him.

BTW, anyone know where I can get some Reynolds 653 decals?

...d
 
David Martin wrote:
>>
>> Thats not fair, you not supposed to actually try it to see what
>> happens, you supposed to make it up and ********.
>
> Oops! rumbled.
>
> Never mind. I'll ******** like crazy about how easy it is to
> accurately fit a headset bearing with nothing more advanced than a
> pair of 30" stilsons, two bits of 2x4, part of an old washing
> machine, a MIG welder and two left flipflops. It should of course be
> notred that using two right flip flops risks seriously damaging your
> rear dropout and is not recommended. A right and a left flipflop
> would have indeterminate effects.
>
> ..d

You incompetent fool, you should only use right flip flops in the Southern
hemisphere.


--
Andy Morris

AndyAtJinkasDotFreeserve.Co.UK


Love this:
Put an end to Outlook Express's messy quotes
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/
 
David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<BD8B3839.22FA6%[email protected]>...

> BTW, anyone know where I can get some Reynolds 653 decals?

You may still be able to get them direct from Reynolds; certainly they
used to offer such a service. Although you have to quote your frame
number and the maker, to prove that it's a genuine Reynolds-tubed job.

David E. Belcher
 
On 8/10/04 8:19 am, in article
[email protected], "David E. Belcher"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<BD8B3839.22FA6%[email protected]>...
>
>> BTW, anyone know where I can get some Reynolds 653 decals?
>
> You may still be able to get them direct from Reynolds; certainly they
> used to offer such a service. Although you have to quote your frame
> number and the maker, to prove that it's a genuine Reynolds-tubed job.

No frame number.. that should be interesting, but I did find the credit card
bill (from 1989 - sad git eh!) so I know when it was bought and who from. I
also have photos of the frame.

I've emailed the original retailers (it was one of their 'own brand' frames)
and if they can't help, I'll contact Reynolds.

...d
 
On 8/10/04 1:30 am, in article [email protected],
"AndyMorris" <[email protected]> wrote:

> David Martin wrote:
>>>
>>> Thats not fair, you not supposed to actually try it to see what
>>> happens, you supposed to make it up and ********.
>>
>> Oops! rumbled.
>>
>> Never mind. I'll ******** like crazy about how easy it is to
>> accurately fit a headset bearing with nothing more advanced than a
>> pair of 30" stilsons, two bits of 2x4, part of an old washing
>> machine, a MIG welder and two left flipflops. It should of course be
>> notred that using two right flip flops risks seriously damaging your
>> rear dropout and is not recommended. A right and a left flipflop
>> would have indeterminate effects.
>>
>> ..d
>
> You incompetent fool, you should only use right flip flops in the Southern
> hemisphere.

I think you'll find I did warn against it.
Anyway, I get the frame back today and then just have to wait for the
headset and bits to arrive.

...d
 
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