Question about installing Shimano Cassette

Rhesus Monkey wrote:

----8<

.. . . what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of the

Quoted message said:

Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

If you have no possibility of measuring the torque applied, think then
in terms of the torque required to properly tighten a car wheelnut for
alloy wheels (approx 110 Nm), then take somewhere between a third and
half of that for the lockring.

Sorry, can't explain better than that . . .

The torque value is probably not so critical. Just avoid being too tight
(damaging the lockring and freehub threads) or too loose (shifting not
working quite right because of too large a distance between cogs and
spacers if they're not properly squashed together).

Robert "doing the same on Campag cassettes" Brown

40 N*m is about 30 ft*lb. You don't need a torque wrench, just tighten it with a fair amount of force on a 1 foot wrench. I use a die stock to hold the splined tool as its a perfect fit and the setscrews retain the splined tool. A die stock has two handles which allows one to maintain pure torque. Since each handle is about 6" long, I put about 10 pounds of force on each.

Rhesus Monkey said:

Hello All,

I recently took off my Shimano Cassette (HG 50 8 spd) to clean it and
noticed on the lock ring that the I should tighten with 40 Nm (Newtons I
presume) of pressure. I don't own a torque wrench and was wondering just how
tight the ring needs to be and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of the
Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

Thanks in advance.

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I recently took off my Shimano Cassette (HG 50 8 spd) to clean it and
noticed on the lock ring that the I should tighten with 40 Nm (Newtons I
presume) of pressure. I don't own a torque wrench and was wondering just

how

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tight the ring needs to be and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

Thanks in advance.

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Chain whip only comes into play during
cassette removal.
Good luck.

Craig wrote:
---8<---cutting

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of
Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

Thanks in advance.

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Chain whip only comes into play during
cassette removal.
Good luck.

We can give him the benefit of the doubt here I'm sure. He did not
actually say that he was going to install the ring with the whip. His
words were "was using". I chose to interpret his text as asking for a
*comparison* between the force required to tighten the lockring, and
that required to remove it (with the whip and spline wrench, as he must
have done).

In fact, none of us (including myself) ever answered this question of his.

But if he really was using the whip to install, I guess he's got the
message by now ;-)

To OP: Rhesus, you still messing with that cassette?

/Robert

<< I don't own a torque wrench and was wondering just how

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tight the ring needs to be and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of the
Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

Thanks in advance.

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Chain whip only comes into play during
cassette removal.
Good luck. >>

In defense of the OP, the Park chain whip tool has a socket on the butt end to
hold the splined lockring tool:
http://www.parktool.com/tools/SR_1.shtml

You're correct, its that the opposite end of the Park Chain Whip is also a
wrench that fits the FR-5 cassette lock ring tool, sorry for the awkward
wording. I mentioned the tool because I thought it would give some people
who respond an idea of the size of tool I was using. The link below shows
the tool.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/SR_1.shtml

"Richard Tack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Rhesus Monkey said:

Hello All,

I recently took off my Shimano Cassette (HG 50 8 spd) to clean it and
noticed on the lock ring that the I should tighten with 40 Nm (Newtons I
presume) of pressure. I don't own a torque wrench and was wondering just

how

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tight the ring needs to be and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
creating a problem because of it.

Thanks in advance.

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

the SR-1 has a wrench on the opposite end of the whip that fits the locking
ring tool - mentioned it that way because I was trying to give an idea of
the size of the tool I was using. Sorry for the confusion.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/SR_1.shtml

"Robert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Craig wrote:
---8<---cutting

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>>and what exactly 40 Mn amounts in terms of
>Park chain whip tool (SR1 I think) I was using might equal. Seems to be
>working ok, but not sure if I might have tightened it too much and am
>creating a problem because of it.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>

Park chain whip tool? You don't need that to install the
casette.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Chain whip only comes into play

during

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

cassette removal.
Good luck.

We can give him the benefit of the doubt here I'm sure. He did not
actually say that he was going to install the ring with the whip. His
words were "was using". I chose to interpret his text as asking for a
*comparison* between the force required to tighten the lockring, and
that required to remove it (with the whip and spline wrench, as he must
have done).

In fact, none of us (including myself) ever answered this question of his.

But if he really was using the whip to install, I guess he's got the
message by now ;-)

To OP: Rhesus, you still messing with that cassette?

/Robert

"Rhesus Monkey" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

the SR-1 has a wrench on the opposite end of the whip that fits the
locking
ring tool - mentioned it that way because I was trying to give an idea of
the size of the tool I was using. Sorry for the confusion.

I just use the cassette tool and fingers, no need for chain whips or
wrenches. It has never worked loose, although I do tend to take the cassette
off to clean every few months.

However people do say the nine speeds are more temperamental.