Question. I have a 1993 no suspension mountain bike with a ruined rear axle. The six speed gears are of the freewheel type. If I buy a complete rear wheel that is 6 speed cassette type, is it likely to fit in as a replacement for the broken rear wheel?
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
You might have more of a problem finding a 6-spd cassette these days - if you can't I don't know how well your rear mech and gear shifters will adapt to a 7spd - quite easy if they have a friction setting - more difficult (if at all?) if they don't. If you do have to upgrade you could get an entry level 9-spd and future-proof yourself for a bit.
Question. I have a 1993 no suspension mountain bike with a ruined rear axle. The six speed gears are of the freewheel type. If I buy a complete rear wheel that is 6 speed cassette type, is it likely to fit in as a replacement for the broken rear wheel?
-- http://www.unmusic.co.uk Michael Reed -- technology, gender, and geek culture freelance writer
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
Thanks, that's what I wanted to know.
Quoted message said:
You might have more of a problem finding a 6-spd cassette these days -
I've got a chance of getting someone else's spare old complete rear wheel including rear cogs. It should be a cheap way of getting that bike back on the road. Thanks again.
-- http://www.unmusic.co.uk Michael Reed -- technology, gender, and geek culture freelance writer
Question. I have a 1993 no suspension mountain bike with a ruined rear axle. The six speed gears are of the freewheel type. If I buy a complete rear wheel that is 6 speed cassette type, is it likely to fit in as a replacement for the broken rear wheel?
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
Older MTBs can be narrower than 135mm. I don't know what year 135mm came in.
Question. I have a 1993 no suspension mountain bike with a ruined rear axle. The six speed gears are of the freewheel type. If I buy a complete rear wheel that is 6 speed cassette type, is it likely to fit in as a replacement for the broken rear wheel?
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
You might have more of a problem finding a 6-spd cassette these days - if you can't I don't know how well your rear mech and gear shifters will adapt to a 7spd - quite easy if they have a friction setting - more difficult (if at all?) if they don't.
Been there, done that...
I put a 7-speed cassette on an 8-speed wheel (you can get a spacer for this purpose since the 7-speed cassette is a bit narrower). The wheel fits in the frame all right.
The 6-speed shifters worked OK for 3 or 4 gears in the middle.
Then eventually I got around to figuring out I could put 8-speed shifters on (the 6-speed one was sort of part of the brake lever assembly, but I just sawed it off and got a nice little "XT" shifter that just fitted).
8-speed shifter on a 7-speed cassette worked slightly better than the 6-speed shifter but not perfectly. Fed up with all this nonsense I got myself a nice 8-speed cassette, so now it all works properly again.
Quoted message said:
If you do have to upgrade you could get an entry level 9-spd and future-proof yourself for a bit.
Duncan Smith said the following on 27/05/2008 21:04:
Quoted message said:
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
I'm pretty sure that a 1993 bike will need a shorter axle.
Duncan Smith said the following on 27/05/2008 21:04:
Quoted message said:
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
I'm pretty sure that a 1993 bike will need a shorter axle.
I'm pretty sure most mid-range and better bikes had switched to 135mm by then. It's not hard to convert most 135mm OLN wheels to 130mm anyway - just remove a spacer, grind off the excess axle and re-dish slightly.
Duncan Smith said the following on 27/05/2008 21:04:
Quoted message said:
I think the wheel will fit in the frame okay - the track on MTBs are usually 135mm which won't be effected by whether or not it's a cassette or a freewheel.
I'm pretty sure that a 1993 bike will need a shorter axle.
Question. I have a 1993 no suspension mountain bike with a ruined rear axle. The six speed gears are of the freewheel type. If I buy a complete rear wheel that is 6 speed cassette type, is it likely to fit in as a replacement for the broken rear wheel?
Doh! All moot now anyway. I was about to win it for 99p+9.99 postage
but someone else grabbed it three minutes before auction finish. Ebay really should do something about sniping, IMO. The old Yahoo auction had a system whereby the auction was extended by half an hour when someone bid within the last half an hour (or something like that). At least the seller got an extra tenner out of it.
Having said all that, I always say that the best way to use Ebay is to set your price and stick with it.
-- http://www.unmusic.co.uk Michael Reed -- technology, gender, and geek culture freelance writer
but someone else grabbed it three minutes before auction finish. Ebay really should do something about sniping, IMO.
If you thought it was worth more then presumably you would have bid more - that's how the proxy system works, after all. Three minutes is nothing, I regularly place bids in the last three seconds.
but someone else grabbed it three minutes before auction finish. Ebay really should do something about sniping, IMO. The old Yahoo auction had a system whereby the auction was extended by half an hour when someone bid within the last half an hour (or something like that). At least the seller got an extra tenner out of it.
Having said all that, I always say that the best way to use Ebay is to set your price and stick with it.
The point of sniping is to beat people like yourself who keep changing their minds about what they are prepared to pay. (In this auction, you bid £5 first, then upped to £11 when you got outbid). So, ironically, you are encouraging what you don't like.
Since there will always be bidders who suffer from auction fever, the best way for you to use eBay is to snipe!
Having said all that, I always say that the best way to use Ebay is to set your price and stick with it.
The point of sniping is to beat people like yourself who keep changing their minds about what they are prepared to pay. (In this auction, you bid £5 first, then upped to £11 when you got outbid). So, ironically, you are encouraging what you don't like.
No I didn't. I put five pounds on it and the system placed a bid of 99p. Then, after I'd done a bit more research, I upped my bid to 11 pounds. There were no other bids until three minutes before auction end. He bid up gradually until he found what my proxy bid must have been and then bid 50 pence more.
Fairy nuff, sorry. So it was not you but the other bidder who was encouraged to up their bid to outbid another. They probably only really wanted to pay only £10 but then caught auction fever. A classic case. So my advice remains the same. Snipe to give yourself a better chance of winning and paying less.
Having said all that, I always say that the best way to use Ebay is to set your price and stick with it.
The point of sniping is to beat people like yourself who keep changing their minds about what they are prepared to pay. (In this auction, you bid £5 first, then upped to £11 when you got outbid). So, ironically, you are encouraging what you don't like.
No I didn't. I put five pounds on it and the system placed a bid of 99p. Then, after I'd done a bit more research, I upped my bid to 11 pounds. There were no other bids until three minutes before auction end. He bid up gradually until he found what my proxy bid must have been and then bid 50 pence more.
Good luck to him, I hope he enjoys the wheel. I'm glad that the seller got more than 99p for the wheel. I would have felt a bit guilty if I'd won it at that price.
-- http://www.unmusic.co.uk Michael Reed -- technology, gender, and geek culture freelance writer
Fairy nuff, sorry. So it was not you but the other bidder who was encouraged to up their bid to outbid another. They probably only really wanted to pay only £10 but then caught auction fever. A classic case. So my advice remains the same. Snipe to give yourself a better chance of winning and paying less.
How much does a rifle with a telescopic scope cost these days? Just remember, you encouraged me! ;-)
-- http://www.unmusic.co.uk Michael Reed -- technology, gender, and geek culture freelance writer
> Having said all that, I always say that the best way to use Ebay is > to set your price and stick with it.
The point of sniping is to beat people like yourself who keep changing their minds about what they are prepared to pay. (In this auction, you bid £5 first, then upped to £11 when you got outbid). So, ironically, you are encouraging what you don't like.
No I didn't. I put five pounds on it and the system placed a bid of 99p. Then, after I'd done a bit more research, I upped my bid to 11 pounds. There were no other bids until three minutes before auction end. He bid up gradually until he found what my proxy bid must have been and then bid 50 pence more.
Fairy nuff, sorry. So it was not you but the other bidder who was encouraged to up their bid to outbid another. They probably only really wanted to pay only £10 but then caught auction fever. A classic case. So my advice remains the same. Snipe to give yourself a better chance of winning and paying less.
~PB
i rarely use ebay but tend to use "buy it now" if i can.
