UK and Europe · Public discussion

Re: Apollo CX 10S. What do you think?

Started by John Hearns · · Last activity · 8 posts · 680 views

← Back to UK and Europe

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

01 / Original postRe: Apollo CX 10S. What do you think?John Hearns · 17 Feb 2008 02 / This pagePosts 1–8Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #8salmon · 18 Feb 2008

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
UK and Europe
Published
17 February 2008
Last activity
18 February 2008
Original author
John Hearns
Posts
8
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
680
Views / 30 days
0
Topics
Inner tubesCantilever and V-brakes

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–8 of 8
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Original post
    John Hearns
    Archived post
    #1
    salmon said:

    Just wanted to get opinions on the Apollo CX 10S bike. I bought one
    but have been reading some of the earlier posts which don't seem to
    rate Apollo very highly.

    ps. my two pence worth for enjoying cycling.
    Pump the tyres up very hard - soft and squidgy tyres mean much more
    effort in pushing the bike along. You want a bike with zip and zing.
    Also stops punctures.
    The sort of cheapo bike pumps with the tartan rubber adapters like your
    grandad had really don't cut it these days. Put your head round the door
    of a local bike shop and ask to use their "track pump" - this is a floor
    standing pump you pump with your arms. The tyres should be very hard -
    pumped up to a lot higher pressure than car tyres - but pay attention to
    the pressure markings on the sidewalls.

    While you're in the local bike shop, pick up a decent pump and some
    sticky patches. Things again have moved on since grandads day - Park and
    other makers make highly sticky inner tube patches which act just like
    plasters. No need to fool around with rubber solution at the side of the
    road. Another good tip is to buy and carry a spare inner tube - again if
    you get a puncture you just change the tube and continue on.

    If you know it, the Decathlon store at Canada Water has dirt-cheap inner
    tubes and plenty of other accessories, well worth a look in if you are
    near there.

    Report
  2. Rob Morley
    Archived post
    #2

    In article <1203240170.8794.24.camel@Vigor13>, John Hearns
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    salmon said:

    Just wanted to get opinions on the Apollo CX 10S bike. I bought one
    but have been reading some of the earlier posts which don't seem to
    rate Apollo very highly.

    ps. my two pence worth for enjoying cycling.
    Pump the tyres up very hard - soft and squidgy tyres mean much more
    effort in pushing the bike along. You want a bike with zip and zing.
    Also stops punctures.

    /nothing/ stops punctures in pneumatic bicycle tyres (at least any tyres
    that are worth riding in normal use). Some things make them less
    likely.

    Quoted message said:

    The sort of cheapo bike pumps with the tartan rubber adapters like your
    grandad had really don't cut it these days.

    If he got the cheap package deal on this bike then he already has a
    reasonable pump.

    Report
  3. salmon
    Archived post
    #3

    Thanks everyone, seems like I haven't bought a turkey after all.

    John Hearns. I am already a member of the Edmonton Cycle club who are
    in some way connected to the LCC. I'm hoping to be a bit more active
    this year and join in on more of the rides.

    I regularly ride the Lee Cycle path which is only a mile or so from
    where I live. It's a terrific ride mid-week when I usually have it all
    to myself. Trouble is I just can't resist the blackberries near the
    Picketts Lock in late july through August.

    Regarding the tyres, I have an electric pump for that and a little
    handheld for my travels.

    Have had a good look over the bike and everything looks/feels quite
    sound apart from a minor adjustment to the Derailleurs.

    Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated.

    Report
  4. salmon
    Archived post
    #4

    Just a couple of minor things though if anyone can help.

    The brakes appear to grab a bit and it seems to be due to play in the
    brake calipers. Should there be play, if so how much? They are V
    brakes.

    Also how to adjust the height of the handlebar stem. I can loosen the
    allen screw in the top for direction setting, does this allow one to
    adjust the height also or is that governed by the large nut on the
    stem tube?

    Oh! and just one more thing, I feel I want the saddle to be slightly
    further back. Is it OK to adjust the saddle mounting bolts (just
    underneath the saddle) or are they set for optimium safety?

    Report
  5. Ben C
    Archived post
    #5
    salmon said:

    Just a couple of minor things though if anyone can help.

    The brakes appear to grab a bit and it seems to be due to play in the
    brake calipers. Should there be play, if so how much? They are V
    brakes.

    Also how to adjust the height of the handlebar stem. I can loosen the
    allen screw in the top for direction setting, does this allow one to
    adjust the height also or is that governed by the large nut on the
    stem tube?

    Given that you have a large nut on the stem tube it sounds like you have
    the old-style quill stem, which means the nut on the top does let you
    adjust the height. Don't undo the allen key more than necessary or the
    wedge thing at the bottom might drop off, and don't pull the stem up too
    far. It should have some short vertical lines engraved around it to show
    the maximum safe amount you can have it protruding from the steerer.

    Quoted message said:

    Oh! and just one more thing, I feel I want the saddle to be slightly
    further back. Is it OK to adjust the saddle mounting bolts (just
    underneath the saddle) or are they set for optimium safety?

    No you can adjust that, should be fine.

    Report
  6. Simon Brooke
    Archived post
    #6
    salmon said:

    Just a couple of minor things though if anyone can help.

    The brakes appear to grab a bit and it seems to be due to play in the
    brake calipers. Should there be play, if so how much? They are V
    brakes.

    What do you mean by play? The bushes on which the arms swivel should not be
    loose on the pins on which they swivel. The arms will twist a little under
    braking forces - even the best ones do - but it must be imperceptible,
    otherwise the brakes will grab. But if you mean the pads sit about a
    millimetre back from the rims until you squeeze the lever, then yes, that's
    normal and desirable.

    Quoted message said:


    Also how to adjust the height of the handlebar stem. I can loosen the
    allen screw in the top for direction setting

    No, you can't. There are two sorts - the modern threadless headset type,
    where the stem clamps round the outside of the steerer tube, and the old
    fashioned threaded headset type where the stem bends through a sharp angle
    and goes down inside the steerer tube. In neither type is it safe to just
    loosen the allen key on the top and mess, unless you know what you're
    doing.

    The modern kind cannot be adjusted for height except by moving spacers from
    below the stem to above or vice versa, or by changing the stem for one with
    a different angle.

    I'm not clear from your description which type your bike has.

    Quoted message said:

    , does this allow one to
    adjust the height also or is that governed by the large nut on the
    stem tube?

    Oh! and just one more thing, I feel I want the saddle to be slightly
    further back. Is it OK to adjust the saddle mounting bolts (just
    underneath the saddle) or are they set for optimium safety?

    Yes, you can (and should) adjust your saddle position for comfort.
    Obviously, tighten them up again afterwards.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    .::;===r==\
    / /___||___\____
    //==\- ||- | /__\( MS Windows IS an operating environment.
    //____\__||___|_// \|: C++ IS an object oriented programming language.
    \__/ ~~~~~~~~~ \__/ Citroen 2cv6 IS a four door family saloon.

    Report
  7. Rob Morley
    Archived post
    #7

    In article <bef26784-633c-4a49-b73f-037ae49215b5@
    34g2000hsz.googlegroups.com>, salmon
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Just a couple of minor things though if anyone can help.

    The brakes appear to grab a bit and it seems to be due to play in the
    brake calipers. Should there be play, if so how much? They are V
    brakes.

    There's usually a bit of play, both slack in the pivot and flex in the
    arm/block. It's normal to set the brake blocks with a bit of toe-in, so
    the front of the block contacts the rim before the back does - that way
    the play is taken up when the brake is applied, and the blocks sit flat
    on the rim under maximum braking force. Make sure the blocks do sit
    flat on the rim when the brakes are pulled on hard, that they don't hang
    over the edge of the rim and that they don't touch the tyre at any
    point. Check occasionally as they wear, and adjust as necessary. Also
    make sure you can't pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars.

    Quoted message said:


    Also how to adjust the height of the handlebar stem. I can loosen the
    allen screw in the top for direction setting, does this allow one to
    adjust the height also or is that governed by the large nut on the
    stem tube?

    The expander bolt in the middle of the stem is the one you need. Undo
    it a few turns (not too much - you don't want to release it from the
    stem) then tap it down to release the wedge inside - that will allow you
    to raise the stem. When you've retightened the expander bolt give the
    bars a good hard twist to make sure they're not going to move when you
    hit a bump. There is a height limit mark on the stem, which should not
    be exceeded. The large nut around the base of the stem adjusts the
    headset (steering bearings).

    Quoted message said:


    Oh! and just one more thing, I feel I want the saddle to be slightly
    further back. Is it OK to adjust the saddle mounting bolts (just
    underneath the saddle) or are they set for optimium safety?


    The saddle rails allow adjustment, just slacken the clamping bolt(s),
    slide the saddle where you want it, and retighten the bolt(s) firmly.

    Report
  8. salmon
    Archived post
    #8

    Thanks very much for your help and suggestions. I think I've got it
    all sorted now.

    Report

Keep exploring

Browse the sectionUK and Europe Return to CyclingForumsStart at the home page Search discussionsFind another thread

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.