Re: Crank removal help??

Hey, Torker did the same for me, although I didn't think I threaded the
pedals wrong, but for me it took many emails from my dad convincing them
to send replacements, partly because i didn't get mine from an
"authorized dealer"

Anyways
yOu can either: get a park tool crank puller ($20), or use a crobar to
pry it off, i've used a crowbar on a friend's united trials and it
worked fine
on my other friends schwinn, only a crank puller would work

first, you have to pry the dust cap out (w/ something sharp), and then
undo the nut w/ a 14mm socket

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I already have the dust cap and 14mm nut off, but the cranks seem to be
very firmly in place...

Would putting on some lube help? What else would do the same job as a
'crank puller' ?

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You really should use a crank puller. Any other method risks doing
damage to your uni. Seeing that you've been given a reprieve from
Torker, you should either buy yourself a crank puller or take it to a
local bike shop tomorrow and see if they can remove the cranks for you.

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If you intend to be a serious unicyclist, and do repairs relatively
frequently, invest in the crank puller, which you can probably get at
your local shop. They can probably even show you how to use it.

There is a cheap way, however, to get your cranks off without tools.
Ride it around. Idling is usually enough to loosen them up. If not, do
some light hopping, first with one pedal in front and then with the
other. Make sure you don't continue riding after the cranks are loose,
as this will cause unwanted wear.

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Dang...the threading in my Torker cranks got screwed up and I just
ordered new ones from my LBS. I'm getting REALLY FRUSTRATED now as it's
been about a week and a half since they ordered the things and I haven't
ridden since then (I'm honestly feeling a noticeable change in my
demeanor since my uni broke...I've been irritable, depressed and angry)!
I should have called Torker. Maybe I still should...get an extra pair
of cranks.

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I posted almost this same topic when I was getting started a few years
ago. I thought that the nut was the only thing holding the cranks on
the axle. You've got to understand that the nut is tightened very
tightly - to the point where the crank is pushed hard onto the square
taper of the axle. So, its not the nut that holds the crank on, nor is
it the tightness of the crank around the axle, but its both of those
things re-inforcing each other.

This is why often if you take off the nut, the crank is still very tight
on the axle. This is also why if the nut gets loose, eventually the
crank will loosen, too. So its like Foss is saying. Take off the nut
and eventually the crank may work itself loose. You can speed up the
process by hopping around or idling with the nut off. But this is
really not the right thing to do, and it can damage your equipment.

Anyway, at the time I really didn't want to order a crank puller because
I get very impatient. (I have the new cranks here, why can't I just get
this done now!?). But in retrospect, I feel kind of dumb. Getting the
crank puller is just the right thing to do, I've used it a million times
since, and my equipment is in much better shape because of it.

I've been there, man. Forget about creative alternate methods. You
should really just get the tool.

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=420

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nbrazzi said:

*I've been there, man. Forget about creative alternate methods. You
should really just get the tool.

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=420 *

The 'Park CWP crank puller'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=421) is better for
unicycle use.

The problem with the CCP style crank puller is that the handle is longer
than most unicycle cranks. In order to turn the handle through the full
360 degrees to be able to operate the tool you will need to remove the
pedal from the crank. That is not always very convenient.

The CWP style crank puller doesn't have that problem because it doesn't
have an attached handle. However, you do need to have a crescent wrench
or some other wrench on hand to be able to tighten the tool and operate
the tool. You can leave the pedal on the crank.

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