Re: OT: (MTB)

Ace said:

Failing that, either a replacement 'riser' head-stock' or different
bars might be the answer. You can get these to add 5-6 cm to the bar
height quite easily, more in combination.

As an alternative approach, some Bolt on bar ends might help.

I find holding my hands at certain angles is what causes numbness
issues.

Ace said:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:40:01 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Pair of M&S pants fixed the mobile bollocks. So that's ok.

Raised the saddle by 4 inches and the bike is 1000 times easier to ride,
but now my hands go numb to the point where I can't change gear.

How do I fix that then?

<x-posted to URC, where they may have some better answers>

If the numbness is due to more pressure on the hands, you might look
into raising the handlebars a bit. You got this one
http://www.hollymillcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p1899&z=1734
in the end, didn't you?

That's the one.

Quoted message said:

Which looks to havean A-head headset, and
therefore ( I think) won't be adjustable. Older types can be moved up
and down after slackening the centre allen bolt running vertically
down it.

I can't find any adjustment.

Quoted message said:

Failing that, either a replacement 'riser' head-stock' or different
bars might be the answer. You can get these to add 5-6 cm to the bar
height quite easily, more in combination.

So, some new bars and move the seat around a bit until there's more
weight on the rear of the saddle.

Cheers chaps. I'll get there in the end. I'm doing about 7 or 8 miles
per day, so I'll either get it right soon or lose the use of my hands
and never have another erection.

--

Paul.
CBR1100XX SuperBlackbird (Buen mueble de patio)
BOTAFOT #4
BOTAFOF #30
MRO #24
OMF #15
UKRMMA #30

in message <[email hidden]>, Ace

(') said:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:40:01 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Pair of M&S pants fixed the mobile bollocks. So that's ok.

Raised the saddle by 4 inches and the bike is 1000 times easier to ride,
but now my hands go numb to the point where I can't change gear.

How do I fix that then?

<x-posted to URC, where they may have some better answers>

If the numbness is due to more pressure on the hands, you might look
into raising the handlebars a bit. You got this one
http://www.hollymillcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p1899&z=1734
in the end, didn't you?

No, don't raise the handlebars - it won't solve the problem and will give
you a poorer riding position.

First, you need track mitts - if you've already got some, experiment with
others, as one size do not fit all. Some people find mitts with gel in the
palms really help, I don't.

Next, you need bar ends, and you need to use them - change your hand
position regularly, use the bar ends while climbing. I recommend these
ones:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdID=5220000162

Finally, some people are quite sensitive to the diameter of the grip. You
may find that you are more comfortable with larger or smaller diameter
grips than your current ones.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; my other religion is Emacs

Ace said:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:40:01 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Pair of M&S pants fixed the mobile bollocks. So that's ok.

Raised the saddle by 4 inches and the bike is 1000 times easier to ride,
but now my hands go numb to the point where I can't change gear.

How do I fix that then?

<x-posted to URC, where they may have some better answers>

If the numbness is due to more pressure on the hands, you might look
into raising the handlebars a bit. You got this one
http://www.hollymillcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p1899&z=1734
in the end, didn't you? Which looks to havean A-head headset, and
therefore ( I think) won't be adjustable.

As it was a new bike it should have been left with plenty of steerer
above the stem to allow for initial adjustment. If it's been cut of
by the shop, then complain because it shouldn't have been sold without
any adjustability.
--
ZX-10R

In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Carmichael
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Ace said:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:40:01 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Pair of M&S pants fixed the mobile bollocks. So that's ok.

Raised the saddle by 4 inches and the bike is 1000 times easier to ride,
but now my hands go numb to the point where I can't change gear.

How do I fix that then?

<x-posted to URC, where they may have some better answers>

If the numbness is due to more pressure on the hands, you might look
into raising the handlebars a bit. You got this one
http://www.hollymillcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p1899&z=1734
in the end, didn't you?

That's the one.

Quoted message said:

Which looks to havean A-head headset, and
therefore ( I think) won't be adjustable. Older types can be moved up
and down after slackening the centre allen bolt running vertically
down it.

I can't find any adjustment.

Height adjustment on these is by moving the shims (if fitted) from above
the stem to below (or vice versa), or flipping the stem (if it's not a
zero-degree one). The angle of the bars can be adjusted by loosening
the clamp and rotating them - this can help to spread the pressure on
your hands better or improve your wrist angle, either of which can
reduce numbness.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Failing that, either a replacement 'riser' head-stock' or different
bars might be the answer. You can get these to add 5-6 cm to the bar
height quite easily, more in combination.

So, some new bars

You could try replacing the bars for some with a rise, but it might be
easier to replace the stem with one with more rise and possibly less
reach.

Quoted message said:

and move the seat around a bit until there's more
weight on the rear of the saddle.

If the saddle's too high or sloping down at the front you'll tend to
slide forwards and put extra load on your arms, if it's too low or
sloping up at the front you'll put more weight on the saddle and
possibly endanger important tender parts. As a rough guide to setting
up:
Slide the saddle back as far as it will go on its mounting rails (this
puts more of your weight on the saddle and pedals). Make sure the
saddle's flat (check with a straight edge across the top - this stops
you sliding around on it). Sit on the bike in your normal riding
position (lean against a wall) and put your heel on a pedal at its
lowest position - you should be able to lock/unlock your knees without
significant movement at the hip.

Quoted message said:

Cheers chaps. I'll get there in the end. I'm doing about 7 or 8 miles
per day, so I'll either get it right soon or lose the use of my hands
and never have another erection.

As you get fitter you'll be able to sustain higher pedal pressure, so
you'll put less weight on the saddle and bars.

Rob Morley said:

Sit on the bike in your normal riding
position (lean against a wall) and put your heel on a pedal at its
lowest position - you should be able to lock/unlock your knees without
significant movement at the hip.

This bit I don't quite understand. How does one "lock" one's knees? I
understand this to mean when they go *bang* and it hurts quite a bit.
Happens most morning when I get out of bed.

Spose I should add the pushbike to the sig if these crossposts van a
continuar.

--

Paul.
CBR1100XX SuperBlackbird (Buen mueble de patio)
BOTAFOT #4
BOTAFOF #30
MRO #24
OMF #15
UKRMMA #30

Simon Brooke said:

First, you need track mitts - if you've already got some, experiment with
others, as one size do not fit all. Some people find mitts with gel in the
palms really help, I don't.

Erm, will my weights gloves work? (I'll have to find them and dust them
off a tad).

Quoted message said:

Next, you need bar ends, and you need to use them - change your hand
position regularly, use the bar ends while climbing. I recommend these
ones:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdID=5220000162

Ah, when I saw bar ends mentioned before, I was thinking motorcylisty
and thought of "bar end weights" - silly me.

Quoted message said:

Finally, some people are quite sensitive to the diameter of the grip. You
may find that you are more comfortable with larger or smaller diameter
grips than your current ones.

When I first started riding a motorcycle, I complained muchly about the
pressure on my palms. Then I realised it was because I was riding like a
gurl. Speeded up a bit and all was well. Doesn't really apply to my
daily pushbike ride in the sticks though.

--

Paul.
CBR1100XX SuperBlackbird (Buen mueble de patio)
BOTAFOT #4
BOTAFOF #30
MRO #24
OMF #15
UKRMMA #30

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:26:34 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Rob Morley said:

Sit on the bike in your normal riding
position (lean against a wall) and put your heel on a pedal at its
lowest position - you should be able to lock/unlock your knees without
significant movement at the hip.

This bit I don't quite understand. How does one "lock" one's knees?

I _think_ he means to fully extend the leg, such that the knee 'locks
out', but I've always thought this was a bad thing when cycling, and
adjust my seats such that in normal use I don't _quite_ stretch this
far.

Quoted message said:

Spose I should add the pushbike to the sig if these crossposts van a
continuar.

I keep meaning to put one together for URC...

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:33:25 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Simon Brooke said:

First, you need track mitts - if you've already got some, experiment with
others, as one size do not fit all. Some people find mitts with gel in the
palms really help, I don't.

Erm, will my weights gloves work? (I'll have to find them and dust them
off a tad).

Yes. They're what I've always used, assuming you mean the padded palm,
no fingertip, velcro round the back variety. They're also sold as
cycling gloves, but are identical.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ DS#8
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

Ace said:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:33:25 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Simon Brooke said:

First, you need track mitts - if you've already got some, experiment with
others, as one size do not fit all. Some people find mitts with gel in the
palms really help, I don't.

Erm, will my weights gloves work? (I'll have to find them and dust them
off a tad).

Yes. They're what I've always used, assuming you mean the padded palm,
no fingertip, velcro round the back variety. They're also sold as
cycling gloves, but are identical.

We get gel filled gloves given to us at work and they sound identical
to those you're describing. Apparently they're quite expensive but all
we use them for is to deaden vibration if we're using 9" angle
grinders.

In article <[email hidden]>, Ace
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:26:34 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Rob Morley said:

Sit on the bike in your normal riding
position (lean against a wall) and put your heel on a pedal at its
lowest position - you should be able to lock/unlock your knees without
significant movement at the hip.

This bit I don't quite understand. How does one "lock" one's knees?

I _think_ he means to fully extend the leg, such that the knee 'locks
out',

Indeed (although mine can lock in positions other than fully extended
too :-\ )

Quoted message said:

but I've always thought this was a bad thing when cycling,

It is, but note I said put your /heel/ on the pedal - normally your foot
is further back on the pedal and your leg less extended.

Quoted message said:

adjust my seats such that in normal use I don't _quite_ stretch this
far.

I like to sit a bit lower and further back than many people - it's a
personal thing, and rules of thumb only get you in the right ball park.

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Ace said:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:33:25 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Simon Brooke wrote:

> First, you need track mitts - if you've already got some, experiment with
> others, as one size do not fit all. Some people find mitts with gel in the
> palms really help, I don't.

Erm, will my weights gloves work? (I'll have to find them and dust them
off a tad).

Yes. They're what I've always used, assuming you mean the padded palm,
no fingertip, velcro round the back variety. They're also sold as
cycling gloves, but are identical.

We get gel filled gloves given to us at work and they sound identical
to those you're describing. Apparently they're quite expensive but all
we use them for is to deaden vibration if we're using 9" angle
grinders.

Pretty much same principle offroading an MTB.

When I ride offroad I use AXO Motorcross gloves. They aren't too thick,
protect my fingers in an off, and also pad the palms quite well.
--
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
Now Playing at home:Rosetta Stone-Hiding In Waiting <carrier>
http://www.myspace.com/theelderuk

Ace said:

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:26:34 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Spose I should add the pushbike to the sig if these crossposts van
a continuar.

I keep meaning to put one together for URC...

I got one 🙂

--
Mike
Van Tuyl titanium Dura ace 10
Fausto Coppi aluminium Ultegra 10
Raleigh Record sprint mongrel
Huissoon project bike (in bits), maybe a fixie...

"Paul Carmichael" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Ace said:

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 20:40:01 +0200, Paul Carmichael <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Pair of M&S pants fixed the mobile bollocks. So that's ok.

Raised the saddle by 4 inches and the bike is 1000 times easier to ride,
but now my hands go numb to the point where I can't change gear.

How do I fix that then?

<x-posted to URC, where they may have some better answers>

If the numbness is due to more pressure on the hands, you might look
into raising the handlebars a bit. You got this one
http://www.hollymillcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p1899&z=1734
in the end, didn't you?

That's the one.

Quoted message said:

Which looks to havean A-head headset, and
therefore ( I think) won't be adjustable. Older types can be moved up
and down after slackening the centre allen bolt running vertically
down it.

I can't find any adjustment.

Quoted message said:

Failing that, either a replacement 'riser' head-stock' or different
bars might be the answer. You can get these to add 5-6 cm to the bar
height quite easily, more in combination.

So, some new bars and move the seat around a bit until there's more weight
on the rear of the saddle.

Cheers chaps. I'll get there in the end. I'm doing about 7 or 8 miles per
day, so I'll either get it right soon or lose the use of my hands and
never have another erection.

If you decide you do want a different stem, I've just bought a couple to see
what suits me, so I might have one going spare in a bit.

Doki said:

"Paul Carmichael" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Cheers chaps. I'll get there in the end. I'm doing about 7 or 8 miles per
day, so I'll either get it right soon or lose the use of my hands and
never have another erection.

If you decide you do want a different stem, I've just bought a couple to see
what suits me, so I might have one going spare in a bit.

I've got all sorts of bits and bobs too, but I didn't offer, as the
cost of sending them to Spain may prove prohibitive, and I don't think
the ukrm underground railway has a very frequent connection there.