Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

removing cranks first time

Started by Callistus Valerius · · Last activity · 10 posts · 944 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 June 2005
Last activity
19 June 2005
Original author
Callistus Valerius
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10
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  1. I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need to remove
    the cranks, for the first time. I was looking at the tools needed, and this
    is what I saw.
    -----------
    The CCP-4 is specifically designed to remove crank arms from Shimano®
    Octalink (splined, oversized "pipe billet"😉 spindles, and ISIS Drive ®
    splined systems. It uses a long, comfortable handle and a fine thread for
    the leverage needed to remove tight crankarms. Rotating tip ensures smooth
    operation and long life.

    NOTE: CCP-4 will not work on crank arms that fit square, tapered bottom
    bracket spindles. Also note that crankarms with a "one-key release" system
    ("self extracting"😉 do not require any crank puller tool. The one-key system
    acts as the remover. If the one-key system is removed, the CCP-4 can be used
    to pull the arm.
    -------------

    Will the CCP-4 work with my bike? And what does "one-key release" mean?

  2. Callistus Valerius said:

    I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need to
    remove the cranks, for the first time. I was looking at the tools
    needed, and this is what I saw.
    -----------
    The CCP-4 is specifically designed to remove crank arms from Shimano®
    Octalink (splined, oversized "pipe billet"😉 spindles, and ISIS Drive ®
    splined systems. It uses a long, comfortable handle and a fine thread
    for the leverage needed to remove tight crankarms. Rotating tip
    ensures smooth operation and long life.

    NOTE: CCP-4 will not work on crank arms that fit square, tapered
    bottom bracket spindles. Also note that crankarms with a "one-key
    release" system ("self extracting"😉 do not require any crank puller
    tool. The one-key system acts as the remover. If the one-key system
    is removed, the CCP-4 can be used to pull the arm.
    -------------

    Will the CCP-4 work with my bike? And what does "one-key
    release" mean?

    Yes it will work. The CCP-4 has a larger "button" to push against the pipe
    billet spindle.

    One key release means there is a special cap threaded into the crank arm
    around the crankbolt. It's usually identifiable by two small holes for a
    pin spanner (for its removal and installation) , the newer ones I've seen
    (RaceFace X-type) have a dual 10mm (for the cap) and 8mm for the crank bolt.
    Anyway, you unscrew the crankbolt out against this cap and it pushes the
    crankarm off the spindle. There is a thin washer inside that allows the
    bolt to slide against the cap. One key systems are nice for when you are
    out on the trail (or road in your case) and get a serious case of chainsuck
    where you have to pull the crankarm off to fix.

    Mike

  3. Callistus Valerius said:

    I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need to remove
    the cranks, for the first time. I was looking at the tools needed, and this
    is what I saw.
    -----------
    The CCP-4 is specifically designed to remove crank arms from Shimano®
    Octalink (splined, oversized "pipe billet"😉 spindles, and ISIS Drive ®
    splined systems. It uses a long, comfortable handle and a fine thread for
    the leverage needed to remove tight crankarms. Rotating tip ensures smooth
    operation and long life.

    Go to a hardware store and get a long 8mm allen wrench. All you need,
    as these cranks use a self extrator. Keep the little cap on,
    left-loosey.

  4. get a torque wrench to put em back on.

  5. "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Callistus Valerius said:

    I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need


    to remove

    Quoted message said:

    the cranks, for the first time. I was looking at the tools


    needed, and this

    Quoted message said:

    is what I saw.
    -----------
    The CCP-4 is specifically designed to remove crank arms from


    Shimano®

    Quoted message said:

    Octalink (splined, oversized "pipe billet"😉 spindles, and ISIS


    Drive ®

    Quoted message said:

    splined systems. It uses a long, comfortable handle and a fine


    thread for

    Quoted message said:

    the leverage needed to remove tight crankarms. Rotating tip


    ensures smooth

    Quoted message said:

    operation and long life.

    Go to a hardware store and get a long 8mm allen wrench. All you
    need,
    as these cranks use a self extrator. Keep the little cap on,
    left-loosey.

    Or get an 8mm allen socket so you can use a longer socket wrench.
    I don't know about you, but I alway think I am going to break
    that flimsy cap using the self extractor. I always take the cap
    off, remove the bolt and use a crank extractor. -- Jay Beattie.

  6. Quoted message said:

    get a torque wrench to put em back on.

    I always do. $23US for Craftsman.

    Mike

  7. Callistus Valerius said:


    I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need to remove
    the cranks, for the first time.

    For Shimano cranks, I recommend drilling out the bolts and prying the
    arms off with a crowbar. Be sure to recycle them, as they can be
    reprocessed into such useful items as single-serving beverage
    containers and pie tins. ;^)

    Chalo Colina

  8. Chalo said:
    Callistus Valerius said:


    I have a Trek 2001 Trek 5200 with Ultegra Octolink, and I need to
    remove the cranks, for the first time.

    For Shimano cranks, I recommend drilling out the bolts and prying the
    arms off with a crowbar. Be sure to recycle them, as they can be
    reprocessed into such useful items as single-serving beverage
    containers and pie tins. ;^)

    Chalo Colina

    Totally unfair, even with the smiley. Just because /you/ weigh over 400
    pounds and break...what, almost everything?...doesn't mean that Shimano
    cranks are weak or inferior. I've had XTR, Ultegra and DuraAce cranks, and
    they've all been superb. Also true of many others riders I know.

    If your criticism was directed at Octalink in particular, I've had no
    problems with that, either, despite hearing the wives' tales.

    Light and stiff gets it done.

    Bill S.

  9. Bill Sornson said:


    Chalo said:


    For Shimano cranks, I recommend drilling out the bolts and prying the
    arms off with a crowbar. Be sure to recycle them, as they can be
    reprocessed into such useful items as single-serving beverage
    containers and pie tins. ;^)

    Totally unfair, even with the smiley. Just because /you/ weigh over 400
    pounds and break...what, almost everything?

    400 pounds _with_ a good strong bike, you mean. But your point is
    taken.

    Quoted message said:

    ...doesn't mean that Shimano
    cranks are weak or inferior. I've had XTR, Ultegra and DuraAce cranks, and
    they've all been superb. Also true of many others riders I know.

    I didn't suggest that Shimano cranks are weaker or more inferior than
    most of the stuff that passes for acceptable on bikes these days; it's
    not. It's just more distasteful.

    Just like you're not going to see me pedaling around in Nike shoes, and
    if you come to a party at my house you won't find any Coke or Pepsi to
    put in your whiskey, and you won't see me stopped at Starbucks for my
    java fix, you also won't find Shimano cranks on my bike. They may or
    may not suck for measurable technical reasons, but they suck
    nonetheless.

    I am certain that Shimano Saint cranks would work just fine for me,
    from a structural standpoint. But I'll be installing mine about the
    same time I get the word "tool" tattooed across my forehead.

    Quoted message said:

    If your criticism was directed at Octalink in particular, I've had no
    problems with that, either, despite hearing the wives' tales.

    Every shop owner I know says that they see a higher proportion of
    trashed Octalink splines (compared to the total number of units) than
    of square tapers. Maybe most Octalink users get good service from
    their cranks, but on the whole they appear to be less reliable than
    other systems. I can see why Shimano saw the merit in upgrading from
    square tapers, but I consider Octalink a failed attempt.

    At least they don't break off-- or anyway I've never heard of such an
    instance.

    Quoted message said:

    Light and stiff gets it done.

    Add "strong", "durable", and "cost-effective" and I'm with you.

    Chalo Colina

  10. Chalo said:
    Bill Sornson said:


    Chalo said:


    For Shimano cranks, I recommend drilling out the bolts and prying
    the arms off with a crowbar. Be sure to recycle them, as they can
    be reprocessed into such useful items as single-serving beverage
    containers and pie tins. ;^)

    Totally unfair, even with the smiley. Just because /you/ weigh over
    400 pounds and break...what, almost everything?

    400 pounds _with_ a good strong bike, you mean. But your point is
    taken.

    Quoted message said:

    ...doesn't mean that Shimano
    cranks are weak or inferior. I've had XTR, Ultegra and DuraAce
    cranks, and they've all been superb. Also true of many others
    riders I know.

    I didn't suggest that Shimano cranks are weaker or more inferior than
    most of the stuff that passes for acceptable on bikes these days; it's
    not. It's just more distasteful.

    Just like you're not going to see me pedaling around in Nike shoes,
    and if you come to a party at my house you won't find any Coke or
    Pepsi to put in your whiskey, and you won't see me stopped at
    Starbucks for my java fix, you also won't find Shimano cranks on my
    bike. They may or may not suck for measurable technical reasons, but
    they suck nonetheless.

    All you had to say was that it's a religious issue with you, and I'd've
    gotten it 🙂

    (Hey Neil, we better not tell him about those Nike arm warmers we both
    bought on sale after today's ride!)

    Selective Tool (I pick my battles, too) Bill

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