Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
If you have a large "C" clamp, that can substitute as a 3rd hand tool. Wrap the ends of the clamp in electrical tape to prevent scratching the brake calipers.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
A toe strap was the prefered tool, back when everyone had those. Anything that will hold the pads close will work, a twist of heavy wire, cable tie, old sock.
Ron
Quoted message said:
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I don't work on cantilevers very often, so this may or may not work well, but here's the trick i use for sidepulls:
If you have small pair of vise-grips (a large visegrip would work too but its far more unwieldy) or other locking pliers, just pull the cable to about the right tightness, and then clamp the vise-grips onto the cable to prevent it from slipping back though the anchor slot. You should be able to manage that with just two hands. Then you can take your time looking at it to make sure you pulled the right amount of cable through (i.e. the pads are about the right distance from the rim) and when you're happy, tighten the anchor bolt and pop the vise grips off. I usually end up having to fine-tune the barrel adjuster after doing this.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
Take an old toe strap and use it to lash the pads against the wheel. Run the cable adjuster down to the stop. Assemble with the best attempt you can make at no slack...and you'll usually be able to adjust it up just right.
-- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
the garbage bag plastic loops? wrap the plastic around brake pads squooze to rim OR! squooze to 1l8th poly bottle shims squooze to rim. centerpulls are in theory self centering if you ceneterd with the bolt. squeeze the handle then wrap with bag pullls. there exists a strong tendency to pull to one side so shim to compensate. a walmart $2 vicegrip is attached to cable just below where you imagine the saddle will be fixed. use a box end wrench for the fixing nut. lever down or up while pulling down with the vice grips and fasten the fixing bolt. when you know its in the right place doit again with red locktite on bolt nut and cable. then throw the brakes away and get a sidepull from nashbar
Assuming the cable going to the straddle device is already adjusted:
- loosen the bolt holding on the straddle wire on the brake - with one hand pull the brakes tight against the rim and hold them there. - with the other hand snug the straddle cable up and tighten the bolt up
I have a third hand tool but it mostly takes up space in my toolbox as I never use it. I adjust them all the time using the above. Often I actually end up with them too tight and have to back them off a bit.
-pete
"Jenny Brien" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
A 3rd hand isn't very expensive. A 4th hand is more expensive, but is worth it. I have two 4th hands. A Park & a cheap Hozan. I prefer the Hozan. Sometimes I use the Park if I have to lock it in position. If U don't have an old toe strap, the next best thing is bailing wire. Bailing wire is an extremely useful tool for use anywhere one doesn't have a specialized tool for a particular situation for compressing springs. Such as the springs or spring clips on automotive drum brakes to name one. Once one has gotten one or two wraps around the piece to be compressed, start tying the ends of the wire by wrapping them around themselves w/ a pair of pliers to form a pig tail sort of looking thing. Be careful not to tighten too much as the wire it's self isn't strong enough to take a lot of tension. Once sufficient tension is attained, & locked down, untie the wire & carefully remove it.
A 3rd hand isn't very expensive. A 4th hand is more expensive, but is worth it.
Sorry, I was thinking of a fourth hand - I already knew the trick of tying the blocks onto the rim.
Thanks to everyone for their replies, and especially Pete Grey whose suggestion makes cantis as eay to adjust as sidepulls. I had a bike with centre pulls lomg ago and maybe that's what made me think that the adjustment had to be made at the fitting on the end of the main cable. It's very tricky to adjust there and make sure everything is tight. Perhaps that's one reason that centre pulls went out of fashion.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
If you have a large "C" clamp, that can substitute as a 3rd hand tool. Wrap the ends of the clamp in electrical tape to prevent scratching the brake calipers.
For years I used a toe strap.
JT
**************************** Remove "remove" to reply Visit http://www.jt10000.com ****************************
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
A 3rd hand isn't very expensive. A 4th hand is more expensive, but is worth it. I have two 4th hands. A Park & a cheap Hozan. I prefer the Hozan. Sometimes I use the Park if I have to lock it in position.
Interesting. Hmm. Must be 2 cheap Hozan models. I like mine because it's light, small, feels more direct & easer to use that the Park.
BTW, Please excuse my ignorance. But upon having received full squidom, what does that mean? I vaguely remember having heard something about Marine recruits, being called squids. Could you please take a minute to explain? Oh and congrats on achieving squidom.
BTW, Please excuse my ignorance. But upon having received full squidom, what does that mean? I vaguely remember having heard something about Marine recruits, being called squids. Could you please take a minute to explain? Oh and congrats on achieving squidom.
BTW, Please excuse my ignorance. But upon having received full squidom, what does that mean? I vaguely remember having heard something about Marine recruits, being called squids. Could you please take a minute to explain? Oh and congrats on achieving squidom.
Does anyone know a good way to install cables on a centrepull or cantilever brake when you don't have access to a third hand tool? However I try, I always seem to end up either with the cable too slack or the bolt slipping : (
I've found I can cut cables with an ordinary electrician's wire cutters so long as i wrap the soon-to-be end tightly with Scotch tape first. If that leaves the cable too fat to go through the hole I strip the tape off again with the wire cutters and protect the cable end again with a new piece once it is installed. This works even for raw ends that nave accidentally got a strand knocked out of line.
Get a wide rubber badn and wrap the brake closed, thru the rim...around the brake pad studs.
