Retro freewheel Q

[email hidden] wrote in news:1118101748.084861.131290
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Quoted message said:

On Dura-Ace 7-speed freewheels (not cassette), was a 15T 2nd position
cog ever made?

I'd like to build a 14-15-........ cog set, but am discovering that
this might not be possible.

I did learn that this combo is possible with 5 or 6 speed, and also
with the "Z" body stuff, but who knows if these cogs will screw to a
7400 7-speed body?

Thanks and regards,

Rob

I have a Dura-Ace 7400 13-15-17-19-21-23-26, so it must be possible.

Roger

Quoted message said:

On Dura-Ace 7-speed freewheels (not cassette), was a 15T 2nd position
cog ever made?

I'd like to build a 14-15-........ cog set, but am discovering that
this might not be possible.

As Roger said, it should be possible. "Junior" freewheels were
available in Dura-Ace 7-speed, with 14 and 15-tooth small cogs... I
think. They were rare, of course. Have your dealer call Euro-Asia
Imports and see if there's any more on the shelf.

Jeff

Quoted message said:

On Dura-Ace 7-speed freewheels (not cassette), was a 15T 2nd position
cog ever made?

I'd like to build a 14-15-........ cog set, but am discovering that
this might not be possible.

I did learn that this combo is possible with 5 or 6 speed, and also
with the "Z" body stuff, but who knows if these cogs will screw to a
7400 7-speed body?

Thanks and regards,

Rob

According to the sheet that came with the MF-7400/7, second position
cogs were made in 13, 14 and 15. A six speed cog will thread onto the
seven speed body in the second position, but the built in spacer will
be too wide (for indexing, but it might work in friction mode if
there's enough space to thread the first position cog onto the body).

Thanks guys -- sounds like I need to keep searching.

Regards,

Rob

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Dura-Ace 7-speed freewheels (not cassette), was a 15T 2nd position
cog ever made?

I'd like to build a 14-15-........ cog set, but am discovering that
this might not be possible.

I did learn that this combo is possible with 5 or 6 speed, and also
with the "Z" body stuff, but who knows if these cogs will screw to a
7400 7-speed body?

Thanks and regards,

Rob

Rob: I've built several 7-speed Dura-Ace freewheels in the last couple of
years. I happened to inherit the cog and freewheel body inventory of an
older bike shop. Yes, I have 15-tooth second cogs for these very nice
freewheels. I have also used the 16 tooth first cog off of the 6-speed
Shimano 600 units and used it as a 7-speed second cog, after grinding half a
mm of width off so that it will index correctly. 20 minutes with a flat
file does the trick. I don't know why I have all of these 16-tooth first
cogs, but I assume it was for junior gearing setups that did not sell. My
favorite setup is 14-16-etc up to 28.

For the rest of the cogs, scavenge them off of HG22 or HG37 Shimano
freewheels. Superior Hyperglide cogs tothe Uniglide originals.

BTW: the first cog of the Z-body stuff can be used as the second cog of the
7-speed bodies. Hats off to Shimano for this compatibility.

Quoted message said:

Thanks, Dave

I found that it's difficult to find cogs with <20 teeth in the large
spline position, using HG22, HG37, or Z-body freewheels. For example,
17, 18, 19 -- couldn't find them. Have you had better results?
Ultimately, I'm trying to make a 14-21 or 14-23 cluster, which would be
very nearly a straight block. Nice to have for flat criteriums.

I don't know what level of racing you're doing but I would tend to
think that, unless they're restricted, a 13 first position would be
more useful for a flat crit than a 23 low or even a 21.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks, Dave

I found that it's difficult to find cogs with <20 teeth in the large
spline position, using HG22, HG37, or Z-body freewheels. For example,
17, 18, 19 -- couldn't find them. Have you had better results?
Ultimately, I'm trying to make a 14-21 or 14-23 cluster, which would be
very nearly a straight block. Nice to have for flat criteriums.

I don't know what level of racing you're doing but I would tend to
think that, unless they're restricted, a 13 first position would be
more useful for a flat crit than a 23 low or even a 21.

Junior gearing.

--
My bike blog:
http://diabloscott.blogspot.com/

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I found that it's difficult to find cogs with <20 teeth in the large
spline position, using HG22, HG37, or Z-body freewheels. For example,
17, 18, 19 -- couldn't find them. Have you had better results?
Rob

I have 2 sealed bags (10 cogs) of 16-tooth cogs (yes, they do fit the larger
of the 2 splines) and one single 17-tooth cog for the large spline. 7-speed
spaced. The 16 is the smallest cogs that will fit on the large spline.

I assume the 16 is used to make straight-block freewheels with: the largest
3 cogs being: 16, 18 and 20 or 21.

Well, I'm not a junior, but I'm trying to avoid pushing big gears. I'm
much more interested in developing speed. In the many years I've done
criteriums, I've found a 12T to be useless, and a 13T almost useless.
There's just no jump possible. For sprinting, I usually use a 15T. I
did fine a nice 15-21 freewheel, but I've found I'm a tad undergeared.
Hence my desire for a 14, straight block.

In hyperglide? How did you get those? I haven't seen that gear offered
on any off-the-shelf newer Shimano freewheel.

Regards,

Rob

Quoted message said:

Well, I'm not a junior, but I'm trying to avoid pushing big gears. I'm
much more interested in developing speed. In the many years I've done
criteriums, I've found a 12T to be useless, and a 13T almost useless.
There's just no jump possible. For sprinting, I usually use a 15T. I
did fine a nice 15-21 freewheel, but I've found I'm a tad undergeared.
Hence my desire for a 14, straight block.

Nevertheless, I would put on a 13. It wouldn't be for sprinting,
necessarily, but it could come in handy when the field starts to speed
up in anticipation of a sprint. The concern is running out of gear-
your RPMs are so fast that trying to raise your speed just a small
notch higher will take so much energy just to get your legs moving
faster that you won't have any wattage leftover for anything else like
wind resistance.

OTOH, what would you use a 21 for? If you're on a flat road with a
20mph wind at your back, what good is a 21?

Ironically, I've made the argument before in this ng that most people
are overgeared with the ridiculous 12 high gears that are sold on most
sport road bicycles, and that very few people can use a 13 effectively.
Racing is a big exception, though.

[email hidden] writes:

Suntour makes a 14-23 winner ultra-6 freewheel, and they sell NOS /
CHEAP on ebay all the time. Are you insisting on a 7-speed freewheel
?? You can always run an ultra-6 on your rear derailleur by setting
the limit screws for the small cog.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

Yup, I've noticed. But unless I'm mistaken, the cog-to-cog spacing is
different for 5, 6, and 7. If I understand Sheldon's webpage correctly
(http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#spacing), some of the SunTour
freewheels have 5mm spacing; some don't.

Anyway, this particular bike uses 7-speed freewheel with Campagnolo
brifters.

Regards,

Rob

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In hyperglide? How did you get those? I haven't seen that gear offered
on any off-the-shelf newer Shimano freewheel.

Regards,

Rob

Does not exist in Hyperglide. My 16 and 17 tooth large spline cogs are
Uniglide.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Well, I'm not a junior, but I'm trying to avoid pushing big gears. I'm
much more interested in developing speed. In the many years I've done
criteriums, I've found a 12T to be useless, and a 13T almost useless.
There's just no jump possible. For sprinting, I usually use a 15T. I
did fine a nice 15-21 freewheel, but I've found I'm a tad undergeared.
Hence my desire for a 14, straight block.

Nevertheless, I would put on a 13. It wouldn't be for sprinting,
necessarily, but it could come in handy when the field starts to speed
up in anticipation of a sprint. The concern is running out of gear-
your RPMs are so fast that trying to raise your speed just a small
notch higher will take so much energy just to get your legs moving
faster that you won't have any wattage leftover for anything else like
wind resistance.

OTOH, what would you use a 21 for? If you're on a flat road with a
20mph wind at your back, what good is a 21?

Ironically, I've made the argument before in this ng that most people
are overgeared with the ridiculous 12 high gears that are sold on most
sport road bicycles, and that very few people can use a 13 effectively.
Racing is a big exception, though.

When building up my new bike I decided to shrink the usual
30-42-52 road triple, then install a 13-19,21,23 cassette. After
all, I said to a minder at the bike shop, "who can spin a 53/11?"
"I can." he said, "I'm the California state time trial champion
for my age group." What a hoot!

I like having a the straight block because I am never between
gears. When I am spinnig one gear, upshifting still allows me to
keep up the cadence. Shifting a large jump takes effort to adjust
to the new cadence and pedal force. Not having a tall gear is not
a disadvantage for me.

--
Michael Press