Road->Track Disc conversion

John Verheul said:

I pursuit on my (road, 130mm spaced) Cervelo P2K, since it conveniently has
rear facing dropouts. I recently aquired an old Hed freewheel disc from the
early '90's. I've got two questions about setting up the disc for track use:

1) To get a good chainline, are there any options besides a "Drew's
Adaptor", and does anyone have a source for those options, or for the Drew's
Adaptor for that matter?

2) I did some pursuits, standing starts, and mass start track racing years
ago on a Mavic track hub, which uses 5mm allen key bolts instead of a
proper solid axle with 15mm track nuts. I never pulled a wheel or had any
problems (I'm not a 100kg sprinter or kilo rider!). Would I be able to get
away with a steel allen-key (non-QR) rear skewer in the normal road
configuration, or is it imperative I track down a solid axle & conversion
kit for the Hed?

Is the answer to #2 "do some 100% standing starts and find out"?

Tracking down might not be difficult: <hedcycling.com> I believe is
the web site and there are people there who answer phones.

You might want to have your credit card ready; I don't think the HED
track axle kits are real expensive. The "track adapter" might be a
little pricey, you can find those on ebay for $35 or so plus
shipping. --D-y

John Verheul said:

I pursuit on my (road, 130mm spaced) Cervelo P2K, since it conveniently has
rear facing dropouts. I recently aquired an old Hed freewheel disc from the
early '90's. I've got two questions about setting up the disc for track use:

1) To get a good chainline, are there any options besides a "Drew's
Adaptor", and does anyone have a source for those options, or for the Drew's
Adaptor for that matter?

2) I did some pursuits, standing starts, and mass start track racing years
ago on a Mavic track hub, which uses 5mm allen key bolts instead of a
proper solid axle with 15mm track nuts. I never pulled a wheel or had any
problems (I'm not a 100kg sprinter or kilo rider!). Would I be able to get
away with a steel allen-key (non-QR) rear skewer in the normal road
configuration, or is it imperative I track down a solid axle & conversion
kit for the Hed?

Is the answer to #2 "do some 100% standing starts and find out"?

Thanks for any help,
John Verheul

I've done that. The HED disc with Drew's Adapter is on my pursuit bike
at home.

1. Good chainline isn't what you get with Drew's Adapter, or ofther
screw-on adapters I've seen. My solution was to install the cog on the
adptor backwards, i.e. with the "spcer" part of the cog outboard to
move the teeh inboard.

2. A 5 mm allen key skewer didn't hold Bob's Zipp disc for the
standing stat, and that was only a team pursuit (San Diego Velodrome,
Early 1990's). The refs gave the team a free restart, so Bob made the
skewer screaming tight, only to slip the wheel again. The team went on
with three riders.

Luckily, HED freewheel discs take fairly common parts to accept a
solid M10x1 track axle.

John Verheul said:

I pursuit on my (road, 130mm spaced) Cervelo P2K, since it conveniently has
rear facing dropouts. I recently aquired an old Hed freewheel disc from the
early '90's. I've got two questions about setting up the disc for track use:

1) To get a good chainline, are there any options besides a "Drew's
Adaptor", and does anyone have a source for those options, or for the Drew's
Adaptor for that matter?

2) I did some pursuits, standing starts, and mass start track racing years
ago on a Mavic track hub, which uses 5mm allen key bolts instead of a
proper solid axle with 15mm track nuts. I never pulled a wheel or had any
problems (I'm not a 100kg sprinter or kilo rider!). Would I be able to get
away with a steel allen-key (non-QR) rear skewer in the normal road
configuration, or is it imperative I track down a solid axle & conversion
kit for the Hed?

Is the answer to #2 "do some 100% standing starts and find out"?

Thanks for any help,
John Verheul

The device to amend your chainline is included in Hed's track adaptor
kit (http://www.hedcycling.com/cart/accessories.php - scroll down to
mid-page).

The kit apparently also contains an axle that will keep you from
having to find out the fatigue limit of a shaft that is about
twenty-eight times longer than its 5mm diameter which is then
repeatedly torqued to the high levels required to keep your wheel from
moving in a horizontal forkend. The old Mavic fasteners were pretty
marginal, but at least they were 6mm bolts and the distance between
the head and the axle threads was only five or six mm on each side.

-------------------------------
John Dacey
Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
Since 1983
Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996
http://www.businesscycles.com
-------------------------------

John,

I did the same a couple of years ago with a P2K; I used a standard
solid axle in my old Hed freewheel disk and the chainline was
reasonably functional. Apart for the chainline issues with the P2K,
the P2K fork ends were very short, which was a pain when chaining
gearing. I ended up buying on ebay an inexpensive AL track frame
from Leader for under $250, which has proper track spacing and rear
fork ends. While the welds aren't pretty, it has saved me a lot of
aggrevation by enabling me to use the same wheels for both my pursuit
and sprint bikes.

Don

John Verheul said:

I pursuit on my (road, 130mm spaced) Cervelo P2K, since it conveniently has
rear facing dropouts. I recently aquired an old Hed freewheel disc from the
early '90's. I've got two questions about setting up the disc for track use:

1) To get a good chainline, are there any options besides a "Drew's
Adaptor", and does anyone have a source for those options, or for the Drew's
Adaptor for that matter?

2) I did some pursuits, standing starts, and mass start track racing years
ago on a Mavic track hub, which uses 5mm allen key bolts instead of a
proper solid axle with 15mm track nuts. I never pulled a wheel or had any
problems (I'm not a 100kg sprinter or kilo rider!). Would I be able to get
away with a steel allen-key (non-QR) rear skewer in the normal road
configuration, or is it imperative I track down a solid axle & conversion
kit for the Hed?

Is the answer to #2 "do some 100% standing starts and find out"?

Thanks for any help,
John Verheul

Thanks Don. I've considered that, but I don't do any racing on the track
besides pursuit at this point, and only 1-2 of those per year...and I've
done OK with the gearing so far (short dropouts).

I'm also pretty sure the Cervelo is a faster bike, and I'd kick myself if I
lost a place by less than a second on a Leader.

If I raced track a lot, I'd definitely think about a dedicated pursuit frame
though.

"don vescio" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

John,

I did the same a couple of years ago with a P2K; I used a standard
solid axle in my old Hed freewheel disk and the chainline was
reasonably functional. Apart for the chainline issues with the P2K,
the P2K fork ends were very short, which was a pain when chaining
gearing. I ended up buying on ebay an inexpensive AL track frame
from Leader for under $250, which has proper track spacing and rear
fork ends. While the welds aren't pretty, it has saved me a lot of
aggrevation by enabling me to use the same wheels for both my pursuit
and sprint bikes.

Don

John Verheul said:

I pursuit on my (road, 130mm spaced) Cervelo P2K, since it conveniently
has
rear facing dropouts. I recently aquired an old Hed freewheel disc from
the
early '90's. I've got two questions about setting up the disc for track
use:

1) To get a good chainline, are there any options besides a "Drew's
Adaptor", and does anyone have a source for those options, or for the
Drew's
Adaptor for that matter?

2) I did some pursuits, standing starts, and mass start track racing
years
ago on a Mavic track hub, which uses 5mm allen key bolts instead of a
proper solid axle with 15mm track nuts. I never pulled a wheel or had
any
problems (I'm not a 100kg sprinter or kilo rider!). Would I be able to
get
away with a steel allen-key (non-QR) rear skewer in the normal road
configuration, or is it imperative I track down a solid axle & conversion
kit for the Hed?

Is the answer to #2 "do some 100% standing starts and find out"?

Thanks for any help,
John Verheul