rolling hop timing

Discussion in 'rec.sport.unicycling' started by Sigurd, Dec 14, 2004.

  1. Sigurd

    Sigurd Guest

    So I can't seem to figure this out. I would like to start jumping off
    some of the 3 stairs or even just curbs, but I can't ever get my cranks
    to that spot when you jump in time. I can hop and drop off objects
    fine. But how do you figure out when to hop? Oh, and I'm talking about
    straightl-line. I can rolling hop onto and off stuff just fine if I'm
    riding parallel to it.


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  2. drewation

    drewation Guest

  3. vanished

    vanished Guest

    When your doing a rolling hop forwards (straight line) then you need to
    remember that you have to stop for a split second when your cranks are
    at the right spot so your leaning forwards...that way you can bring the
    unicycle forwards furthure. About the cranks, after a while you should
    just be able to feel where your cranks are and when to jump without
    thinking about it. Keep practicing, it'll come soon.


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  4. James_Potter

    James_Potter Guest

    You can do it at a slight angle, so you can time it right to line it up,
    instead of going straight on and hoping for the best.
    Or you can ride up to it, hop until it's where you want it to be, then
    ride backwards away from it. Then it's allll lined up.


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  5. Unitik908

    Unitik908 Guest

    Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put the
    wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where your
    gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure nicee
    aligned jumping.


    POW


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  6. caw89

    caw89 Guest

    Unitik908 wrote:
    > *Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put
    > the wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where
    > your gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure
    > nicee aligned jumping.
    >
    >
    > POW *


    I prefer the riding backwards tech, because you can hop around the spot
    to ensure it feels right, and riding backwards to prepare looks better
    for people watching.


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  7. James_Potter

    James_Potter Guest

    caw89 wrote:
    > *and riding backwards to prepare looks better for people watching. *



    Yeah, that's one of the main reasons I do it. If you go line it up
    right, then roll backwards and do it, they can tell that you're setting
    it up just right.
    But if you ride up to it, then ride back, it looks almost like you're
    just sizing up what you're about to do.


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  8. Unitik908

    Unitik908 Guest

    Yes that is what i do but if you do not retain the knowledge for riding
    backwards this is a healthy alternative.



    POW


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  9. uni412

    uni412 Guest

    Unitik908 wrote:
    > *Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put
    > the wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where
    > your gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure
    > nicee aligned jumping.
    >
    >
    > POW *



    The only problem with lining up by rolling your wheel on the ground is
    if you ride with a low tire pressure, your weight compressing the tire
    can effect the distance. If you can't ride backwards, you could also
    face away from the obstacle that you want to jump on to and ride away
    backwards. When you get to a good starting point, hop around to face the
    obstacle and you should be lined up.


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  10. TonyMelton

    TonyMelton Guest

    Unitik908 wrote:
    > * you can simply just put the wheel how you like it then just roll it
    > on the ground to where your gonna start, then just go and do your
    > jump, and this will assure nice aligned jumping.
    > *



    In my experience this doesn't always work. I think that it has something
    to do with tyre pressure. That is, the circumference of your wheel will
    be different with your body weight on it compared to unweighted -
    especially if you're running your tyre at a low pressure.


    EDIT: Darn, Uni412 bet me to it!

    +()|\|>-


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  11. uni412

    uni412 Guest

  12. caw89

    caw89 Guest

    I've never had a problem with the tire pressure but if you dont ride in
    a strait line back wards then you might not be lined up anymore.


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  13. I think that the amount that tire pressure can change the circuymfrance
    of the wheel is negligable, unless you have huge rollup distances. I
    think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling back have a
    greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio. I do notice that hand
    rolling the wheel doesn't work as well, though.


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  14. gerblefranklin wrote:
    > *I think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling back have a
    > greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio.*

    When I (very rarely) do rolling hops the amount of wobbling when riding
    backwards is about the same as when rolling forwards, so riding up to
    the jumping spot and then riding backwards for the run-up has always
    worked best for me.

    I know this isn't what you were asking about Sigurd, but you may find
    the frames of Dan Heaton's rolling hop to 7 pallets helpful -
    http://tinyurl.com/5bpe7

    Andrew


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  15. caw89

    caw89 Guest

    That pic helped me alot, plus I watched how he jumps in the videos in
    slow motion, Using that tech I jumped up 4 pallets, but once on top I
    sliped in a crack and hurt both wrists.


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  16. TonyMelton

    TonyMelton Guest

    gerblefranklin wrote:
    > *I think that the amount that tire pressure can change the
    > circuymfrance of the wheel is negligable, unless you have huge rollup
    > distances. I think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling
    > back have a greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio. I do notice
    > that hand rolling the wheel doesn't work as well, though. *



    Perhaps I didn't explain what I meant very well. My point was that when
    you apply your body weight to your unicycle (as in riding it) the tyre
    will naturally compress somewhat. Depending on how much you weigh and
    what your tyre pressure is the amount of tyre sag will vary. Even though
    the percentage change in the circumference will be pretty small as you
    say, over a number of wheel rotations it will be enough to put your
    rolling hop out of alignment. This is why hand rolling the wheel back
    doesn't work as well.

    For convenience I omitted the body weight factor in my earlier post,
    assuming that most riders will not gain or lose any mass when doing a
    rolling hop. Though its effect can readily be seen by having a
    substantially heavier rider borrow a lighter rider's unicycle and seeing
    the tyre sag.


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  17. Sigurd

    Sigurd Guest

    Wow, thanks for all the help guys. Yes, I have seen that pic of Dan
    doing the 7 pallets. I guess I'm just going to have to start small. Or
    just keep riding up parallel for a while.


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  18. TonyMelton wrote:
    > *Perhaps I didn't explain what I meant very well. My point was that
    > when you apply your body weight to your unicycle (as in riding it) the
    > tyre will naturally compress somewhat. Depending on how much you weigh
    > and what your tyre pressure is the amount of tyre sag will vary. Even
    > though the percentage change in the circumference will be pretty small
    > as you say, over a number of wheel rotations it will be enough to put
    > your rolling hop out of alignment. This is why hand rolling the wheel
    > back doesn't work as well.
    >
    > For convenience I omitted the body weight factor in my earlier post,
    > assuming that most riders will not gain or lose any mass when doing a
    > rolling hop. Though its effect can readily be seen by having a
    > substantially heavier rider borrow a lighter rider's unicycle and
    > seeing the tyre sag.
    >
    >
    > +{}|\|>- *




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  19. JVTFm

    JVTFm Guest

    Depending on what I rolling hop I do the rolling backwards or the hand
    rolling.

    To correct the weight difference between riding and not riding I just
    roll it back in a zig zag pattern and this usually assures that I will
    be on target.


    Also when you rolling hop up something I suggest hop from the distance
    away that the object is tall.
    Example: your object is 3 feet high, roll and hop when you are 3 feet
    away from said object.

    I also think this tech. is only good when the object is 2 feet or
    higher.


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