rolling hop timing



S

Sigurd

Guest
So I can't seem to figure this out. I would like to start jumping off
some of the 3 stairs or even just curbs, but I can't ever get my cranks
to that spot when you jump in time. I can hop and drop off objects
fine. But how do you figure out when to hop? Oh, and I'm talking about
straightl-line. I can rolling hop onto and off stuff just fine if I'm
riding parallel to it.


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V

vanished

Guest
When your doing a rolling hop forwards (straight line) then you need to
remember that you have to stop for a split second when your cranks are
at the right spot so your leaning forwards...that way you can bring the
unicycle forwards furthure. About the cranks, after a while you should
just be able to feel where your cranks are and when to jump without
thinking about it. Keep practicing, it'll come soon.


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J

James_Potter

Guest
You can do it at a slight angle, so you can time it right to line it up,
instead of going straight on and hoping for the best.
Or you can ride up to it, hop until it's where you want it to be, then
ride backwards away from it. Then it's allll lined up.


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U

Unitik908

Guest
Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put the
wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where your
gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure nicee
aligned jumping.


POW


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C

caw89

Guest
Unitik908 wrote:
> *Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put
> the wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where
> your gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure
> nicee aligned jumping.
>
>
> POW *


I prefer the riding backwards tech, because you can hop around the spot
to ensure it feels right, and riding backwards to prepare looks better
for people watching.


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J

James_Potter

Guest
caw89 wrote:
> *and riding backwards to prepare looks better for people watching. *



Yeah, that's one of the main reasons I do it. If you go line it up
right, then roll backwards and do it, they can tell that you're setting
it up just right.
But if you ride up to it, then ride back, it looks almost like you're
just sizing up what you're about to do.


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U

uni412

Guest
Unitik908 wrote:
> *Yes,(responding to want Mr. James said) or you can simply just put
> the wheel how you like it then just roll it on the ground to where
> your gonna start, then just go and do your jump, and this will assure
> nicee aligned jumping.
>
>
> POW *



The only problem with lining up by rolling your wheel on the ground is
if you ride with a low tire pressure, your weight compressing the tire
can effect the distance. If you can't ride backwards, you could also
face away from the obstacle that you want to jump on to and ride away
backwards. When you get to a good starting point, hop around to face the
obstacle and you should be lined up.


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T

TonyMelton

Guest
Unitik908 wrote:
> * you can simply just put the wheel how you like it then just roll it
> on the ground to where your gonna start, then just go and do your
> jump, and this will assure nice aligned jumping.
> *



In my experience this doesn't always work. I think that it has something
to do with tyre pressure. That is, the circumference of your wheel will
be different with your body weight on it compared to unweighted -
especially if you're running your tyre at a low pressure.


EDIT: Darn, Uni412 bet me to it!

+()|\|>-


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G

gerblefranklin

Guest
I think that the amount that tire pressure can change the circuymfrance
of the wheel is negligable, unless you have huge rollup distances. I
think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling back have a
greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio. I do notice that hand
rolling the wheel doesn't work as well, though.


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A

andrew_carter

Guest
gerblefranklin wrote:
> *I think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling back have a
> greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio.*

When I (very rarely) do rolling hops the amount of wobbling when riding
backwards is about the same as when rolling forwards, so riding up to
the jumping spot and then riding backwards for the run-up has always
worked best for me.

I know this isn't what you were asking about Sigurd, but you may find
the frames of Dan Heaton's rolling hop to 7 pallets helpful -
http://tinyurl.com/5bpe7

Andrew


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T

TonyMelton

Guest
gerblefranklin wrote:
> *I think that the amount that tire pressure can change the
> circuymfrance of the wheel is negligable, unless you have huge rollup
> distances. I think that the inevitable turns you make while rolling
> back have a greater effect on the distance/rotation ratio. I do notice
> that hand rolling the wheel doesn't work as well, though. *



Perhaps I didn't explain what I meant very well. My point was that when
you apply your body weight to your unicycle (as in riding it) the tyre
will naturally compress somewhat. Depending on how much you weigh and
what your tyre pressure is the amount of tyre sag will vary. Even though
the percentage change in the circumference will be pretty small as you
say, over a number of wheel rotations it will be enough to put your
rolling hop out of alignment. This is why hand rolling the wheel back
doesn't work as well.

For convenience I omitted the body weight factor in my earlier post,
assuming that most riders will not gain or lose any mass when doing a
rolling hop. Though its effect can readily be seen by having a
substantially heavier rider borrow a lighter rider's unicycle and seeing
the tyre sag.


+{}|\|>-


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G

gerblefranklin

Guest
TonyMelton wrote:
> *Perhaps I didn't explain what I meant very well. My point was that
> when you apply your body weight to your unicycle (as in riding it) the
> tyre will naturally compress somewhat. Depending on how much you weigh
> and what your tyre pressure is the amount of tyre sag will vary. Even
> though the percentage change in the circumference will be pretty small
> as you say, over a number of wheel rotations it will be enough to put
> your rolling hop out of alignment. This is why hand rolling the wheel
> back doesn't work as well.
>
> For convenience I omitted the body weight factor in my earlier post,
> assuming that most riders will not gain or lose any mass when doing a
> rolling hop. Though its effect can readily be seen by having a
> substantially heavier rider borrow a lighter rider's unicycle and
> seeing the tyre sag.
>
>
> +{}|\|>- *




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J

JVTFm

Guest
Depending on what I rolling hop I do the rolling backwards or the hand
rolling.

To correct the weight difference between riding and not riding I just
roll it back in a zig zag pattern and this usually assures that I will
be on target.


Also when you rolling hop up something I suggest hop from the distance
away that the object is tall.
Example: your object is 3 feet high, roll and hop when you are 3 feet
away from said object.

I also think this tech. is only good when the object is 2 feet or
higher.


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