pkittle said:Be careful with spoke tensioning. feel_the_light is right--you can very
easily overtension spokes, which will lead to them snapping. There are
even tools you can buy (I don't have one, though) that measure the
tension in a spoke so that if the "musical" method doesn't work for
you, you can assure relatively even tension in your wheel. I tend to go
with the musical method myself.But a word of warning. If you go around tightening some spokes and
leaving others alone, you very well may mess your wheel up big time and
end up needing to either buy a set of truing calipers or taking your
wheel into the LBS for truing. I'm not a wheelbuilder, so I don't claim
to know all, but I've been advised by bike mechanics that if the wheel
is true but there are loose spokes, you should go around the entire
wheel tightening each spoke a quarter turn until they're all
(relatively) tight. This will keep the wheel true and get your spokes
tensioned. Those same bike mechanics have said that people tightening
their own spokes without knowing the rudiments of wheelbuilding account
for more customers needing truing than anything else at their shop.
Don't be scared to tighten really loose (flat plah sounding spokes)
In general, tightening a spoke will pull the rim towards the fork leg
that is on the same side as the hub side the spoke is attached to. But
this is only if the spoke is doing something. A "plah" sounding spoke
isn't pulling because it is slack compared to the spokes around it, not
doing much of anything. Bringing it up in pitch a bit should strengthen
your wheel while not moving the rim.
Of course, being an expert wheel truer is a skill to be respected. We
all start somewhere. I am a bit of a hack, but in 35 years of
tightening motorcycle wheels, and lately uni's, I have yet to really
bodge the job. Where as taking the wheel to the shop always costs $.
And leaving some spokes so loose they are doing little or nothing is a
recipe for trouble. Tighten them yourself.🙂
--
feel the light
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