rusty chain

Al C-F said the following on 28/06/2006 13:57:

Quoted message said:

And precisely none can be fitted into the packaging for a memory card.
Who said film was dead.

Film? I remember that!!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

in message <[email hidden]>, Jane

(') said:

Burt said:

"Jane" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

help please what is the best thing to oil my chain with??
Thank you

Oil

yes thank you but what type is best engine / chain saw / wd40 or
what?????

If the chain is really rusty, first replace the chain. Oil is not going
to cure a chain which has been allowed to get into a really bad state.

Then, if you're riding only in good weather on roads, use White
Lightning; otherwise, use Finish Line Cross Country. Use as little as
possible, leave ideally overnight to penetrate inside the rollers, then
wipe off any excess with a rag or kitchen paper - the outside of the
chain should be clean.

If you're doing serious mountain biking, clean and relubricate the chain
after every ride; if commuting in winter, about once a week; if
commuting in summer, about once a fortnight; if being used only in dry
weather, about once a month or once every 500 miles, whichever is less.

Both White Lightning and Finish Line Cross Country are quite expensive
but you use very little and they really do help extend the life of your
chain so it works out cheap.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
,/| _.--''^``-...___.._.,;
/, \'. _-' ,--,,,--'''
{ \ `_-'' ' /
`;;' ; ; ;
._..--'' ._,,, _..' .;.'
(,_....----''' (,..--''

in message <[email hidden]>, Rob Morley

(') said:

In article <pan.2006.06.25.20.27.37.287173
@firstnamelastname.com.invalid>

Mike Causer said:

Chris Eilbeck said:

I'm not sure there's a consensus as to what is best. What sort of
cycling
do you do? I've seen recommendations for chainsaw oil, for special
chain
lubes like White Lightning and Finish Line. I just use GT85 but I
realise that might not be the best.

Surely, in the OP's case, *any* oil will do? Except whale oil.....

Jane, use WD40 until all those funny bits of chain that stick up in
little triangles have gone, after that even used engine oil from a car
will give 95% of the improvement over a rusty chain that the most
expensive stuff can.

Why /used/ engine oil? That's mucky and full of nasty chemicals and
has lost some of its lubricant properties.

Because he doesn't care for his bike and doesn't mind wrecking it.

I wouldn't let /clean/ engine oil anywhere neat my chain!

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Human history becomes more and more a race between
;; education and catastrophe.
H.G. Wells, "The Outline of History"

On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 18:48:08 +0100

Mike Causer said:

BTW, three latex gloves can be crammed into a 35mm film canister, which
protects them from damage in the seatpack.

Mike

And precisely none can be fitted into the packaging for a memory card.
Who said film was dead.

Simon Brooke said:

Because he doesn't care for his bike and doesn't mind wrecking it.

I love them all, although the one that's been breaking spokes recently is
sin-binned until I get some new rims & spokes. However, I didn't say
what /I/ use to lube the chains......

Mike

In article <pan.2006.06.28.20.54.57.243162
@firstnamelastname.com.invalid>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Simon Brooke said:

Because he doesn't care for his bike and doesn't mind wrecking it.

I love them all, although the one that's been breaking spokes recently is
sin-binned until I get some new rims & spokes. However, I didn't say
what /I/ use to lube the chains......

LARD!

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
Drugs are good, except when they kill you.

Simon Brooke said:

If the chain is really rusty, first replace the chain. Oil is not going
to cure a chain which has been allowed to get into a really bad state.

Well, there are many reasons for a chain to be rusty. If large flakes
of rust come off in your hands then it is probably dead. If it can be
shifted with pliers then it is just a bit of surface rust. For the
really keen, dunk it in phosphoric acid (coca cola might do) then wash
off well. Water displace with WD40 then hang up somewhere quite warm
(or warm it with a hairdryer or similar) till dry. Then lubricate as
required. Dip in hot wax to give a water resistant coating to the
metal. Add a heavy oil (and wipe off any excess) or use a proprietary
lubricant.

Me? On the commuter I try to remember to oil the chain every so often
using new motor oil.. add drops whilst turning the cranks backwards and
then wipe off the excess with a rag. Sometimes I forget/am too
busy/can't be bothered and the chain goes a bit stiff, so I whack some
more oil on it and abuse it till it works again.

...d

In article <[email hidden]>
Simon Brooke <[email hidden]> wrote:
<snip>

Quoted message said:

If the chain is really rusty, first replace the chain. Oil is not going
to cure a chain which has been allowed to get into a really bad state.

Depends where the rust is - if the plates are orange the pins and
rollers might still be fine.

Dave Larrington said:

In article <pan.2006.06.28.20.54.57.243162
@firstnamelastname.com.invalid>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Simon Brooke said:

Because he doesn't care for his bike and doesn't mind wrecking it.

I love them all, although the one that's been breaking spokes recently
is sin-binned until I get some new rims & spokes. However, I didn't
say what /I/ use to lube the chains......

LARD!

Ere! No need to get personal. And where have you found a photo of me
anyway?

Mike

David Martin said:

Simon Brooke said:

If the chain is really rusty, first replace the chain. Oil is not going
to cure a chain which has been allowed to get into a really bad state.

Well, there are many reasons for a chain to be rusty. If large flakes
of rust come off in your hands then it is probably dead. If it can be
shifted with pliers then it is just a bit of surface rust. For the
really keen, dunk it in phosphoric acid (coca cola might do) then wash
off well.

Is enough coke to clean it really that much cheaper than a new chain?

Alan Braggins said:

David Martin said:

Simon Brooke said:

If the chain is really rusty, first replace the chain. Oil is not
going to cure a chain which has been allowed to get into a really
bad state.

Well, there are many reasons for a chain to be rusty. If large flakes
of rust come off in your hands then it is probably dead. If it can be
shifted with pliers then it is just a bit of surface rust. For the
really keen, dunk it in phosphoric acid (coca cola might do) then
wash off well.

Is enough coke to clean it really that much cheaper than a new chain?

A chain fits in a jam jar. 50p of Coke (or 10p of oil) versus £8+ for a
new chain.

~PB