Seat-post with max set-back

wongaga said:

Anyone know of a post with more set-back than the FSA 220 (32mm)?

Never used either, but the Titec El Norte Bent 7075 Seatpost is supposed to have 1.5 inches of offset...works out to 38mm...the Profile Design Fast Forward Post is supposed to have a 38mm offset when set forward for triathlon positioning...I assume it would give 38mm of setback if it was turned around...Competitive Cyclist has an ad for the 2007 FSA K-Force Lite that states it has a 35mm setback...other than that, I think the FSA 220 has the most setback I've ever seen in a normal post...

Happy cycling!

I'have the Carbon setapost by pmp:

Link PMP: all4cycling.comindex.phpOpen ↗

Thanks fellas. I now realise I have no idea what the "set-back" actually is - is it post centre-line to front of clamp, or to centre of clamp?

wongaga said:

Thanks fellas. I now realise I have no idea what the "set-back" actually is - is it post centre-line to front of clamp, or to centre of clamp?

It's from the post centerline to the center of the clamp. (Excuse my spelling, I'm American) On seat posts that are bent, like the Profile and the Titec the measurement is from the centerline of the bottom section of the post that is inserted in the frame, not the 'offset' part.

Just wondering, what sort of fit problem are you having with your current set up?

Happy cycling!

[quote="3Sensei"]It's from the post centerline to the center of the clamp. (Excuse my spelling, I'm American) On seat posts that are bent, like the Profile and the Titec the measurement is from the centerline of the bottom section of the post that is inserted in the frame, not the 'offset' part.
Just wondering, what sort of fit problem are you having with your current set up?


Thanks - that's what I thought. And you do spell tolerably well for a Yank.

The need arises from me rashly buying an off-the-rack tourer (Cannondale T2000) without getting a bike-fit first. Turns out the T2000 has quite a steep seat-post compared to your average laid-back (literally) touring frame. So to get my bum back where it needs to be, I need lots of set-back. Probably can't get a post with enough to let me keep my beloved Brooks B17, but worth asking all you clever chaps.

The fit-guy (Kennedy, which will mean something to those who live in Melbourne Oz) pointed out that the wide "flare" of a saddle like the Brooks means that one's bum is inevitably pushed forward more than on a saddle with less flare. I've been riding, and doing all my own bike-work for a long time, and was buggered as to why I couldn't get it right. But I was working on BB-to-saddle-nose dimension, which does not account for the bum-shifting effect of different saddle shapes. I could call it a trap for young players, pity I'm old.

Question to the universe - why do makers of Al-frame tourers use such a steep seat-post angle (my previous ride was a Mongoose tourer which was ridiculously steep, the Cannondale is stepper than my criterium bike). Do they just pick a frame off the generic "comfort bike" line and bung some touring bits on it?

Wongaga

Have you looked at the Oval Concepts Aergo setapost. They have adjustable setback all the way to 50mm.

[img]ovalconcepts.com131 small.jpgOpen ↗[/img]

wongaga said:

The need arises from me rashly buying an off-the-rack tourer (Cannondale T2000) without getting a bike-fit first. Turns out the T2000 has quite a steep seat-post compared to your average laid-back (literally) touring frame. So to get my bum back where it needs to be, I need lots of set-back. Probably can't get a post with enough to let me keep my beloved Brooks B17, but worth asking all you clever chaps.

The fit-guy (Kennedy, which will mean something to those who live in Melbourne Oz) pointed out that the wide "flare" of a saddle like the Brooks means that one's bum is inevitably pushed forward more than on a saddle with less flare. I've been riding, and doing all my own bike-work for a long time, and was buggered as to why I couldn't get it right. But I was working on BB-to-saddle-nose dimension, which does not account for the bum-shifting effect of different saddle shapes. I could call it a trap for young players, pity I'm old.

Question to the universe - why do makers of Al-frame tourers use such a steep seat-post angle (my previous ride was a Mongoose tourer which was ridiculously steep, the Cannondale is stepper than my criterium bike). Do they just pick a frame off the generic "comfort bike" line and bung some touring bits on it?

You might consider using a Brooks Professional as a possible option -- the parallel portion of the rails extends about 1/4" (might be less) further forward than a B17, or other similarly railed saddle. YES, I know that a lot of people like to think that they have custom-molded their leather saddles to their bums ... there ARE ways to facilitate breaking-in a "new" leather saddle ...

Anyway, a Brooks Professional + an Easton seatpost (or, one of the ones already mentioned) might help you get your saddle in the proper positioned for you.

In some instances, you can effectively change the seat tube & head tube angle by changing the front fork -- a "touring" 700c CrMo fork is shorter than an unsprung/solid 29er fork (but, you'll probably need to use a disc brake front wheel). Of course, putting a 29er fork will rais the BB height, etc. since you are essentially jacking up the front end of the bike.